Marinette Boat Forum

Probably just a sender. I would connect a mechanical gauge and operate the boat under the same conditions. If the mechanical gauge does the same thing, then you have a problem. It doesn't sound like an engine problem the way you describe it.

Raw or fresh water cooled? Fresh water are much hotter for sure.

When using a 1409 or 1410 Edelbrock we reuse the original Carter fuel inlet nut. The threads are an oddball size. Makes swapping into them a snap.

Nobody runs @ WOT for extended periods. The point is that if the engine can attain 4200-4400 RPM, the boat is propped correctly and in good mechanical shape. Propping boats to gain MPH at cruising speed or a specific RPM is not a good idea. It can create detonation which can damage pistons, valves, ...

That relay was used to remove battery power to the main stud on the alternator with the key off. I've never seen that on any Chrysler marine engine factory equipped with a Prestolite charging system 1972-1991.

4000-4200 is a must assuming the engine is tuned and running correctly. You prop the boat to achieve that.

Distributor advance will only get you 200-400 rpm max assuming it was timed correctly when it was right. I would start with a compression test. You can't tune a sick engine.

Should be able to. A 1/4" drive 7/16" swivel socket with make this job much easier.

That relay was only used 1971 and back with the Chrysler alternator. No need to run a 6 gauge wire. The 1 wire unit charges 60-75amp and the factory 10 gauge wire is sufficient.

If you have power to the main stud on the alternator (Orange Wire) jump to the field terminal (Green Wire) from the regulator with the engine running. If it doesn't charge then the alternator is junk. The common failure is the rotor. It usually open circuits. Another test on the engine is see if you...