Understanding the CAPAC
Re: Understanding the CAPAC
I agree with Barklydave. One other thing to check is the meter. Put your Fluke on mV and go from the sensor to the hull. It will be much more accurate than the meter in the boat. If you find it to be off, I would find the true reading with the Fluke and then set the meter in the boat to read the same when you press the button. Then it is accurate there for that reading. I would not set the needle to zero when you are not pressing the button. That would only make it correct when you are not using it. (PM me if you need 350 Crusader info, I have the manuals that came with the my engines )--Ed
BUSIA
located in Ketchikan, Alaska. Gods country
32 foot Marinette (no fly bridge)
twin 350 Crusader (Chev 350) engines
1:1 Borg Warner velvet drive transmissions
Closed cooling (antifreeze in the engine)
Proud to be retired IBEW and an A+P
located in Ketchikan, Alaska. Gods country
32 foot Marinette (no fly bridge)
twin 350 Crusader (Chev 350) engines
1:1 Borg Warner velvet drive transmissions
Closed cooling (antifreeze in the engine)
Proud to be retired IBEW and an A+P
Re: Understanding the CAPAC
Seeing you are in fresh water, magnesium is the only way to go! I had a block of it bolted to the top of my trim tabs. Got great readings for many years as it was slowly used up.
Jeff
Jeff
"We live at the bottom of an ocean of air, not at the top." General Marvage Slatington
Re: Understanding the CAPAC
Last edited by carl on Wed Jul 10, 2019 11:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Understanding the CAPAC
Last edited by carl on Wed Jul 10, 2019 11:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Understanding the CAPAC
keep it in range,, don't overzinc
-joel-
former owner 1988 '32 FB Sedan
Chesapeake Bay
twin 318 / 240 hp
Potomac MD
former owner 1988 '32 FB Sedan
Chesapeake Bay
twin 318 / 240 hp
Potomac MD
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- Site Admin
- Posts: 410
- Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2014 6:18 am
- Location: Kentucky
Re: Understanding the CAPAC
Your readings are fine. This time of year water is cold and less sediment algae etc. Numbers will move up. I would not recommend a second Mag. One is plenty. You may also find better continuity by clamping to a stantion. Check with OHM meter to verify continuity.
safe boating,
dave
safe boating,
dave
1987 Marinette 29 FB Sedan
Retired Boat Accident UL and USCG trained investigator
Retired USCG Captain
Retired Boat Accident UL and USCG trained investigator
Retired USCG Captain
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- Royal Aluminum Star
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2016 8:27 pm
- Location: Lake Charles, LA
Re: Understanding the CAPAC
I'm glad to see y'all saying his CAPAC reading is fine. Mine fluctuates from 0.6 to 0.9 all the time. Everytime I see 0.6 I get nightmares of my props falling off and the bottom of my boat rotting out.
1990 Marinette 32 Sedan Flybridge "Hubba" Lake Charles, LA
Twin Chrysler 318's
Twin Chrysler 318's
Re: Understanding the CAPAC
Did they also mention 6 weeks lead time?carl wrote:Just got off the phone with a woman over at Evoqua, she told me the company division that sells the original replacement Capac components for our Marinette boats was Siemans but is now evoqua, she knows our system. The price for the through hull reference electrode kit is $593.00, That's more than I had hoped to hear. Contact information below.
Evoqua
Email: Rosanna.Valle@evoqua.com
Phone: (908) 851-6915
When I contacted them a few months back the lady I spoke with said there was a six week lead time on them.
I had originally tried to contact Ward's Marine with no reply for months from them, even posted on their FB page without getting a reply, finally I started a dial-fest between the two locations and at last got to a person, they said they had a few (or a couple?, I don't recall now) in stock and quoted the $700.00+ price.
I understand now why someone stole mine, I've searched for a few marine junkyards and most of them say they don't have any new or used.
1971 28' Express Cruiser
Single 225 HP LM318 W/Velvet drive
Practically abandoned by it's owner (but not critters) for 15 years until I got her.
Slowly but surely bringing her back to life with blood sweat and love.
(grease, gaskets, paint, oil, ect)
Single 225 HP LM318 W/Velvet drive
Practically abandoned by it's owner (but not critters) for 15 years until I got her.
Slowly but surely bringing her back to life with blood sweat and love.
(grease, gaskets, paint, oil, ect)
Re: Understanding the CAPAC
Are you aware of where I can get instructions on making a home made sensor?Busia wrote:Wow! $500 for the meter! Yes, this is just a little electrical cell " battery" you are making with the hull and sensor, with the water as the electrolyte. Go to boatzincs.com to read and learn all about this. Best prices and service when you want to buy anodes. They have a test electrode for $125 and get a $10 VOM and you have the same thing. I put a new bottom on my boat and got rid of all the holes I could. I removed the sensor and now just hang it over the side with my VOM set to mV in series with the sensor and the hull. --Ed
Re: Understanding the CAPAC
The actual sensor you will probably have to buy. I believe it is silver/silver chloride. Don't know of any homemade ones. You could call boatzincs.com and talk to them.
BUSIA
located in Ketchikan, Alaska. Gods country
32 foot Marinette (no fly bridge)
twin 350 Crusader (Chev 350) engines
1:1 Borg Warner velvet drive transmissions
Closed cooling (antifreeze in the engine)
Proud to be retired IBEW and an A+P
located in Ketchikan, Alaska. Gods country
32 foot Marinette (no fly bridge)
twin 350 Crusader (Chev 350) engines
1:1 Borg Warner velvet drive transmissions
Closed cooling (antifreeze in the engine)
Proud to be retired IBEW and an A+P