Marinette Boat Forum

Rockxx,

Mind that you read the timing at the bell housing between the engine and the transmission. Don't stick your head in front of the engine where the alternator belt is (like you would on a car). There should be a hole on top of the housing with an access cover screwed on. It's very close to where the starter motor is. Sorry if you already knew this.

I'm thinking more about burned spark plug wires if you don't have proper water to the exhaust manifold. Happened to me once.

Where are you reading the engine block temperature?

Skye

Come on after 91 posts
A signature would be extremely helpful in this matter.
What year
What engines
What area of the world boat is kept
Model
bill

Skye,
Thought I remembered you could read the timing at the rear, obviously my most recent mechanic didn't. These guys today only know how to plug in their computers to tell them what's wrong. Block temp is from reading the temp gauge and reading the temp at the thermostat housing with the Lazer temp gauge.

Bill, at one time my signature was automatically added and I didn't really notice that it still wasn't. I've tried to refresh it so we'll see if it comes up after this post. I'm surprised that I've had 91 post and it's just been noticed.
Regards to all,
Rockxx

Rockxx,

Your 1972 should be set up like my 1971. They changed the cooling water scheme around 1974 I have read. You should have a dual pocket water pump, four hoses. I think you can have adequate engine cooling without adequate exhaust manifold cooling if water is blocked at the transmission oil cooler. As I see it, the second pocket of the cooling water pump sends water from thermostat bleedby to pressurized tubes in the exhaust header and then on to the trans oil cooler. After the trans cooler the water gets dumped at the front of the exhaust headers to run out the exhaust. Engine cooling water gets dumped into the rear of the exhaust header and won't cool the header. I found a diagram but I don't know how to post it.

If it were me, I'd take the hose off the top of the transmission oil cooler and look down at the tubesheet. If it is full of crap the next step is obvious. If it is open then taking the hose off the discharge (top) of the second pump pocket (toward the engine) and starting the engine might be the trail to follow.

Skye

Skye,

We do have the same setup with the dual pocket pump. I didn't pull the hose to the transmission cooler and that is my next step to see if I have obstruction at that point. If you can tell me were you found the diagram I'll try to run it down.

Thanks for the help. I've not been much help to the forum members, seems I've got all questions and few answers.

Thanks again,

Rockxx

I've sent an email via the forum. Reply and I'll email the diagram.

Years ago I found that the assembly gaskets can be incorrectly punched out so that some water gets through but not enough, compare old gaskets with new ones.

Rockxx,

Sent you another PM with the rest of the info I have