Marinette Boat Forum

I am in Escanaba. The carburator guy is a few blocks from the fairgrounds. I dont have any paperwork so I would need to look for his house. By the way you said gas leaks out the "rod". That is a common wear point. One of my books says to install bronze shaft bushings. This make a more elaborate rebuild. Check this: https://quadrajetparts.com/carburetor-b ... p-286.html
If I can find the rebuild guys house I will contact you.

SENT YOU A EMAIL WITH THE MECHANICS ADDRESS AND PHONE NUMBER. ALSO CHECK MY LAST POST/

javalin390 wrote:Interesting post. As a former GM mechanic, and all around GM enthusiast, the Chrysler engines with Quadrajets always intrigued me. I rebuilt my Carter carbs last year, and they run fine, but the idea of switching carbs has been in the back of my mind. Are the 318 and 360 intakes the same? Anyone have a set of Q-jet intakes they'd like to sell?

The intakes are interchangeable between 318/340/360, HOWEVER, look at what cooling system you have. The intakes are NOT interchangeable between cooling systems. If you have the dual pocket raw water pump, without the circulating pump on the front of the engine, you need the special Chrysler intake for that cooling system that is only set up for a Carter carb pattern.

Single pocket raw water pumps with the circulating pump can use any auto style intake. This opens options for aftermarket intakes and high performance options.

But DON'T use an aluminum intake unless you have a closed cooling system! Raw water cooling will cause massive corrosion in no time.

Jeff

I will second what Jeff said. I have worked on many boats that people installed Edelbrock intakes on, only to dump water in the oil a year or so later.

The stb engine is now running right. The primary carb system's accelerator pump and the power piston were gummed up. We sprayed some seafoam inside and freed them up. The engine started easier. When the secondary throttle opened the engine back fired and we had to back off. We were concentrating our effort on the carburator but the root cause was somewhere else. The timing was a little off we set it to 5 degrees before top dead center and got a better idle. We then decided to change the plugs and got a big surprise. The gaps were .025 instead of .035. Once we changed them out the backfire problems went away. i had already changed the port engine plugs a couple of years ago. These old Chryslers want to run and will run badly for many years. To get them right your fuel delivery, distributers and carburators all have to be spot on. The original distributer springs will rot out and the advance system wont work. You can't time the engine. Fix that first.

Right on. When timing the beast, you need to rev the motor and see if the advance, advances properly.

Too often it doesn't come all the way back, which tricks Mr. Mechanic into timing it wrong.

Jeff

PS: A drop or two of oil on the felt under the rotor--and a few hundred flips of the Fastjeff Rotor Freeing Trick--will keep the advance nice and free.

I'm concerned....

... flippin' the rotor so many times could cause cramping...

... best to stop every few " flips " snd re-exercise the fingers/hand...

... grabbing a brewski should work quite well!!!


And in doing so should keep the "flipper" well oiled as well.

Bill

A brewski helps ALL ills!

Jeff