Marinette Boat Forum

I'll jump in just for clarification. You have a clean 12 or 12+ v coming in to the ignition switch but 11.5 out? If so start simply and take and remove each component down the line out by use of a jumper, starting with the key switch. You my find you have to re run a wire someplace if the corrosion is internal and causing internal resistance. Do yourself a favor and check the amperage delivered too, remember voltage is only half the equation. Be sure to check all of your connections. Every single one should be, as I Iearned from working on 6v tractors, clean,bright and tight.

Thanks everyone for the help here. I apologize my previous post was unreadable. I had oily hands and a head full of steam. It seems I'm losing about 1v from my battery to the ballast resistor. One of the many things that confuse me is that my coil+ has a wire coming from the forward bulkhead and not from my ballast like I've seen in many diagrams? Not sure if that means anything. So far I have replaced ballast and ecu's even though to my surprise the parts house was able to test the old ones and they checked out. My jumper on the input side was pretty crunchy so I replaced it. I still just can't seem to grasp the two circuits (run/start) . I can't seem to find a diagram to assess the toggle switch on the dash for run and start. Here's what I think which is probably incorrect. Key switch has one position and sends power to ignition toggle. Toggle has 2 positions run and start. Run sends 12v to all ECU components etc. At this point the coil + only sees minimal(?) If any voltage. When the toggle is held in the start position there is some sort of bypass that at that point sends 12v to the coil through the ballast. My coil+ has a wire coming from the forward bulkhead and not the ballast. I put a long wire lead onto the wire going to the coil+ and used my meter to check continuity at the key and the toggle in the run position and that wire wherever it goes it doesn't have continuity that I can find.... But i didn't have any extra set of hands to hit the start position. Once again thank you everyone .

Here's the deal. In operation, the ECU gets slightly reduced voltage through the ballast resistor--found that out the hard way by sending a full 12 volts to it! (Don't ask.)

For starting, while cranking, 12 volts goes directly (ie: around the ballast resistor) to the '+' coil terminal via a terminal on the starter solenoid.

In run, about 9 volts goes to the '+' terminal on the coil from the ballast resistor. The coil is actually a 9 volt coil that runs on 12 volts for a hot spark during starting. (The words "Resistor Required" is marked on the correct coil.) That's why there's two circuits through the ballast resistor: for the coil, and for the ECU.

So...put a volt meter on the coil, have someone crank away, and read the voltage. Also see what's there in Run, engine off.

Jeff

See above,

And here for a diagram.

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/ ... -nightmare

Thanks guys, I have been trying to sort all of this out but I can't seem to get the correct voltage back down from the ignition switch to the ballast or anything on the rear of the motor. I am always 1 to 1.5 volts below battery reading with meter. I had that thread in the link printed out and trying to make my way through it. Had to do family time today and take my girls hiking while social distancing ourselves. Hoping to head to the boat now to start again hopefully with less frustration then yesterday.

Okay today's readings. 12.7v at battery only 11.5 at ignition solenoid and going into ballast. Ignition in run 2.2v coil+ when cranking voltage drops to 0.7. voltage at coil after cranking but back in run position dropped to 1.8. Could the ballast be backwards?

Engine number 2 has 0.6v in run position at coil+, 12.6V at battery and 11.6 at ignition solenoid and into ballast. I didn't check voltage while cranking as I haven't primed the starboard engines oil pump yet.

..." when cranking voltage drops to 0.7. voltage at coil"

Okay. There's the problem. You should see nearly 12 volts coming from the starter solenoid. I believe the 'S' terminal on the solenoid is the one that does this, so put a meter on it and crank away. If you see lousy voltage there, clean or replace the solenoid.

Jeff

Jeff is correct, as always. Try a wire from the battery straight to the coil ( JUST A TEMP JUMPER). Make sure no fumes etc as Busia has mentioned. This will give a good spark,then get the solenoid replaced as Jeff mentioned. Then remove said jumper wire.

..."Jeff is correct, as always"

My wife would strongly disagree!

Jeff