Hard to start?

wschneid
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Hard to start?

Postby wschneid » Fri Dec 04, 2020 12:11 pm

I have a 86 32' FB Sedan with the twin Chrysler 318's. I notice that if the boat sits up for just a few days, it takes a long time to get started. That is true for both engines. What would you guys suggest is a normal cranking time in this situation? It is taking me at least 20 sec with some pumping of the throttle to get started. Any ideas or suggestions. I may need a tune up, but once it gets started, it runs fine.

Bill Schneider

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Busia
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Re: Hard to start?

Postby Busia » Fri Dec 04, 2020 12:57 pm

Check if you have gas in the float bowl of the carb. ( pump the throttle, does the accelerator pump squirt gas down the throat of the carb? )
Actually, it is good to crank it awhile if you have the battery and starter that will handle it. Build up oil pressure before it runs. That drains down too.
BUSIA
located in Ketchikan, Alaska. Gods country
32 foot Marinette express. (no fly bridge)
twin 350 Crusader (Chev 350) engines
1:1 Borg Warner velvet drive transmissions
Closed cooling (antifreeze in the engine)
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Fastjeff
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Re: Hard to start?

Postby Fastjeff » Fri Dec 04, 2020 1:22 pm

Mine did that as well since the gas in the carbs evaporates after sitting.

To get rid of that, I installed a small electric fuel pump to send fuel to the carbs: I used the generator's fuel connection and installed check valves at the carbs. A momentary switch at the dash was used to run the pump.

A bit of work, but it worked slick!

Jeff
"We live at the bottom of an ocean of air, not at the top." General Marvage Slatington

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Tuggle
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Re: Hard to start?

Postby Tuggle » Fri Dec 04, 2020 2:24 pm

Agree with Busia comment about a long crank to get the oil pressure up. I installed primer bulb's between the tank and the fuel pump, same effect as Jeff's electrics just manual work's great, problem is there is a lot of clatter from the oil draining down from sitting, dry start NOT GOOD! Bulb's are still in place but rarely used, switch the battery selector to both for maximum power. Did install new starter motors from Arco when we did the repower.
"Deplorable", 1975 32' Express, Twin 318's, Raw Water Cooled, Lake Lanier, Ga.

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Re: Hard to start?

Postby ddependo » Fri Dec 04, 2020 2:37 pm

Mine is the same, but that gives me a excuse to go to the boat two or three times a week to crank it. "Wife, got to go check on the boat, see you later"
Somebody has to do it. Tough job. May have to take a nap while I'm there.
Wayne
1973 32 express fly bridge
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GB49
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Re: Hard to start?

Postby GB49 » Fri Dec 04, 2020 3:38 pm

Similar issue here as well. I'll give each engine a few pumps long before I start just to get some gas moving into the bowl. Also in the habit of a few pumps after running and engines have cooled down. Seems to help keep things primed.
I do like Jeff's electric pump setup!
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Re: Hard to start?

Postby seef158 » Fri Dec 04, 2020 7:35 pm

Remember these are carbeurated engines guys. Try starting a 1980s or 70s dodge truck when its 20 below out and THAT is a long crank time. 20- 30 seconds is normal as far as im concerned. I wouldnt be concerned with a minute after sitting for a week. 20 soconds cranking, give it a rest for 30 seconds and crank again.
1972 28' express single 318, working on getting the bugs worked out.
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bill
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Re: Hard to start?

Postby bill » Sat Dec 05, 2020 9:50 am

BigM
Fastjeff,
A question. :?:
Are the check valves installed to prevent the mechanical fuel pumps from over riding the electric pump and feeding back to the tank? :?:
bill
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Grosse Ile MI
Located on LakeErie
37' F/B Sedan
1975
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Raw water cooled
Hydraulic steering both helms
USCG Master Lic. Retired

Third Owner bill

javalin390
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Re: Hard to start?

Postby javalin390 » Sat Dec 05, 2020 9:23 pm

Referring back to one of my previous posts regarding fuel pumps, chances are the check valves in your fuel pump are weak and in addition to your gas evaporating from the float bowl, from the carb down, the fuel will eventually siphon back to the fuel tank. Used to see it a lot on older cars w/ mechanical pumps. Mine is a 1975 and came with the old style re-buildable Carter pumps. A place called Now-and-Then Automotive sells the kits to rebuild them, part # CK-114, including new check's (this is for the Carter with casting number 2504S). After rebuilding mine, even after 2 weeks, they fire right up. Unfortunately the newer pumps with the stamped steel lower half are not rebuildable, you have to throw it away and buy new. But... Summit Racing sells the old style rebuildable Carters. These are listed as "Street/Strip" hi-po units, one pumps @ 6PSI, the other @7.5 PSI, both @ 120 GPH. Not sure if these are over-kill but if you DO need new pumps, I would rather spend the money on a pump that can be rebuilt, over and over, as opposed to the throw away pumps (the rebuild kits are around 50 bucks, new pumps are well over a hundred).
I had considered going the route as FastJeff, utilizing an electric pump, but opted for trying a fresh mechanical pump first, finding the pump's check valves were junk. Honestly the hardest part of doing it isn't the rebuild, but crawling my old, rickety body into the bilge to swap the starboard pump !!

Then-and-Now Auto https://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pump-repair-kits/

Carter rebuild video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyiK206YRQU
(Note: the video shows it for a Ford engine, but the Mopar Carter is identical)

https://www.summitracing.com/search/dep ... d%3acarter

Also note that the web site for Then-and-Now is kind of difficult to navigate, so just call them with the part #, CK-114
Jim Elias
1974 37' SedanFlybridge
Twin 360 Chryslers.
Marblehead, Ohio

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Re: Hard to start?

Postby Fastjeff » Wed Dec 09, 2020 7:25 am

..."Are the check valves installed to prevent the mechanical fuel pumps from over riding the electric pump and feeding back to the tank? :?:
bill"

Yes!

Jeff
"We live at the bottom of an ocean of air, not at the top." General Marvage Slatington