Replacing aft deck

[javalin390]

My deck was replaced with Al by the previous owner. From the looks of the underside, I don't think they added any extra reinforcement. I think it's 1/8" thick. It has indoor/outdoor carpet on it. After a few years, the carpet is starting to rot away, but not the deck !!

[steveintn]

aluminum Deck
Specs on type of aluminum?
Thickness?
Good source?

[Fastjeff]

Any aluminum will work since it's not under water. I added 1/8 inch Al to mine by simply screwing it down into the wooden deck. Any rotten areas--and were several--I replaced first. Much easier to do it that way, and the floor is solid. I used SS flat head screws countersunk so they were flush.

Jeff

[Joefuskie]

What kind of cost difference would one be looking at replacing a deck with plate aluminum vs. plywood vs. a PVC type deck?

Wouldn't aluminum transmit engine noise and heat more readily than wood? I would think that it would. I sure do like the idea of using aluminum even if it would require a sound barrier of some sort. I've dealt with enough rotted out marine plywood in my life to never want it in a boat again. Enter the majestic Marinette!

[jralbert]

If I were doing it over again (I won't be), I would not choose aluminum. Too hard and unforgiving though it is very easy to maintain. And to differ with my pal Jeff, I would not cover wood with it because that, in my belief, hastens the wood rot (seals in the moisture from below) -- unless the wood were very thoroughly coated. Very thoroughly.

I would prefer something like Plasteak - not cheap - but will last longer than the boat or the captain. Easy to work with and easy to clean. Close enough resemblance to teak

[Rockit]

We installed an aluminum deck in my 28. The original paint job flaked off so we repainted it with Rustoleum aluminum paint and it looked good, but not great. An area rug made it more livable.

I did not notice any appreciable increase in noise though.

Good luck.

[yooper]

When I replaced my deck I decided not contort my old body to try and screw or unscrew those out of reach screws under the deck. I cut out the old deck with power saw from the top down, I made a 1/4" template for one side of the cockpit. Flip it and you have the other side. I saw that anything but 5/8" inch material was not going to fit well. I got some 5/8" exterior rated plywood. Marine grade is too expensive. It was hard to find because it used to be common for roof sheathing but all builders use oriented strand board now. I cut the new cockpit pieces. I took them to a Rhino bed liner dealer and had them coated in light grey rubber with a 6 or 8 inch overlap underneath. The the whole front area is clamped with aluminum trim under the door. Here is where you need 5/8' width material. I replaced the screws and washers that I could easily reach under the deck. I replaced the rusted out steel washer that clamps the cockpit drains from the bottom to the deck with a large diamond shaped piece of aluminum plate. This fit under the the corner walls of the cockpit. When the drain nut was tighten It clamped both the drains and the corners of the deck. That left the sides of the cockpit floor which I was fully prepared to screw from the top down. The floor was solid enough so I went home instead. I did paint the under side of the cockpit floor with bright white porch paint. Not because I was afraid of water. It makes the hold much brighter. After reading the above solutions I say Keep it simple. Why turn a three day job into three weeks.

[Fastjeff]

The aluminum was damn hot on ones feet, but I noticed no sound difference. A cheap, through away rug solved that problem (and looked good to boot).

To protect the wood, I carefully sealed the aluminum all around the deck. After at least 5 years, it was still sound.

Jeff

PS: I too am (wasn't) up to crawling around under there messing with screws!