net wt.

[Butchel]

Good point. I am re-thinking the go-no-go decision. I will be hiring the boatyard directly. Won't they be acting as my "agent?" Are you saying I need someone to look over their shoulder?

[jralbert]

They should be acting as your agent. I'm sure you'll talk to them extensively about the project and have an understanding of what they will do. Memorialize the conversation with at least an email otherwise it's he said/she said.

Will you insure the vessel before the journey? Does the carrier have insurance?

[Butchel]

Joel,
I hope I'm not being too bold here but, it occurs to me that you, being 45 miles away from Edgewater, are well positioned to oversee the FB removal process. Would you consider doing that? I would hold you harmless, reimburse you for time and expenses and greatly appreciate your help. I am busy here on a project and it's going to be very difficult for me to get away.
Butch

[newendeavor]

My Boat was shipped down from DC and Bridge was laid on fore Deck. But a lot of the wiring that did not unplug was cut, which means both VHF antennas, both FM radios Speaker wiring etc, my Depth Finder, Gas Alarms
Antenna cables are not meant to be spliced.
It was a real mess.

[RBrown]

We have removed the fly bridge ourselves on two occasions. The first was to prepare for transport after purchasing. The second was for re-paint. It was not a difficult task, it just takes a little time. I have a few pictures that hopefully will be of some help. The factory wiring came up from below and was connected to four terminal blocks. I labeled them 1 to 4. Before disconnecting any wires I sandwiched them between two pieces of duct tape. This kept the wires in their proper order while they were removed. Label the wire groups with the appropriate terminal strip number. You only have to remove the wires that go to the wire duct. You will probably have to cut a few wires. Just label them well. I installed connectors where I had to cut wires so that they could be disconnected again if I have to remove the bridge again.
When they remove any railings. They should leave the bases screwed to the deck. It will make reassembly easier. If you have pedestal seats, you may not need to remove the pedestal. We did not have to remove ours.

I agree with the recommendations of doing this work yourself. The people taking things apart may not be the ones putting it back together.
I would ask marinas in the area your boat is currently in for recommendations for boat transporters. See if you can find one that can load and unload the boat. It can save you from paying additional money for a hoist to load and unload.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx_Pc ... DRWZzFGd0U

Good luck

Rob

[Butchel]

Thanks Rob. Wow! This is scary stuff. The duct tape is a great idea. I certainly see what you mean about the ones taking things apart have a much better shot at putting things back together again. Good thinking on finding a transporter in the Edgewater, Maryland area. I will pursue. I struck out trying to find one in Rockport TX. (the destination.) How does the transporter load a boat? Do they bring their own crane? How can that be cheaper than having the marina load? And, how does the transporter unload the boat 1650 miles away in Texas? I'm missing something. The broker says he has a quote from the marina/boatyard of $2,000.00 to haul out, prepare for shipping, and load. That seems a little excessive to me. But, I admit, most things do.
Butch

[RBrown]

If the transporter has the right type of trailer he can back into the water at a launch ramp and pull it like a small boat. If it is on land he may be able to get the trailer under the boat if it is blocked high enough.
The transporter we used was recommended to us by several local marinas. He pulled the boat out of the water in Cincinnati, OH and delivered it to the boat yard in Michigan City, IN and offloaded it onto jack stands and keel blocks.

We prepped the boat ourselves and paid the transporter around $1,500.00 to move the boat (16 years ago). Your distance is much greater so the cost would be more.

If you transport your boat during the winter you should make sure that everything that has water in it has been winterized. The boat may travel through some areas that are cold enough to freeze and break engine blocks.

Rob

[jralbert]

BUTCHEL: The invitation to assist is appreciated but I can't undertake the project. However, nearby is the mechanic I used for many years to maintain my former boat. I will try to contact the very knowledgeable and skilled curmudgeon and see if he wants to work with you and if so, I will put him in touch with you. And I have a backup idea, plan C. Standby for updates.

[Butchel]

Thanks again Rob. Since my last post (exercise in ignorance,) I found just what you have described, a self loading transporter: Dave's Marine Transport out of Marblehead OH. I have asked for a quote. The winterizing tip is welcomed too. The engine should have anti-freeze in it but the sea water should be drained from the heat ex-changer. I am hoping to get this move done soon. The broker is working on the title transfer etc. and I don't have a schedule as yet.
Thanks Joel. I have about decided to make the trip and may talk my son, who lives in Ft. Worth, into going with me. We'll get the marina to haul the boat and set it on tall jacks. If we can hire your skilled curmudgeon and his tools, the three of us can do all the prep. Then, my son and I should be able to re-assemble the FB with the help of some ordinary grunt labor. I love it when a plan comes together.

[GB49]

Butchel,

Check your private messages at the top of the screen. Just sent you some info on another transport guy.

-Karl