UPDATE: Poly Glide / Slide and Glide Wear Strip available in February

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carl
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UPDATE: Poly Glide / Slide and Glide Wear Strip available in February

Postby carl » Fri Jan 05, 2018 4:48 am

The plastics manufacturing company that I source from just informed me that they finally got around to batching the material for the replacement Poly Glide / Slide and Glide Window Wear Strips. It is UV resistant so they have to batch it special for us. It will be available on eBay in February or possibly sooner, I will update this post once I have the strips in hand and on eBay. Thank you for your patience.
1990 Marinette 32' Sedan Fly Bridge "IKOI"
Twin Crusader 350's (Closed Loop Cooling)
Bow to Stern Full On Restoration in Progress
Chickamauga Lake, Tennessee
A boat is always safe at shore, but that's not what its built for...

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bcassedy
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Re: UPDATE: Poly Glide / Slide and Glide Wear Strip available in February

Postby bcassedy » Fri Jan 05, 2018 9:04 am

I got a roll of both that Carl's offering - 1 for the glass, 1 for the screen. Carl, I believe, told me that to replace/install either, the windows/screens need to be removed.

(Sheepish) question.... What's the least intrusive (aka - damaging) method for removal in order to install the glide strips. I could probably figure something out, but if there's a good way of doing so, I'm all ears!
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Bill
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
"Sunset Seeker"
'88 32' Sedan Bridge
Located in Aurora, In.
Twin 318cu in Chrysler
1.5:1 Velvet drive trannies
Fresh water only

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carl
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Re: UPDATE: Poly Glide / Slide and Glide Wear Strip available in February

Postby carl » Fri Jan 05, 2018 10:11 am

Hello Bill,
I answered this very same question back in mid January 2017, here is the cut and paste:
Hello Bill,
The tracks need to be removed in order to install the Poly Glide replacement material.
1) First take the time to thoroughly clean out all of the screw head slots, mine were all Stainless Steel Philips flat head screws and were packed with dirt and grime. I used a toothbrush sized brass brush and soap solution to free them of the debris packed inside of them, I couldn’t even get my screwdriver into the heads they were packed so dense. Then use a crisp new Philips head screwdriver the correct size for your screws. These are Stainless screws fastened through aluminum track and into aluminum base metal, they are small (mine were size 6) and they have been in there for a long time. They are dissimilar metals and I thought they would be problematic removing but either I got lucky applying the proper technique or they weren’t to be a problem at all. Applying a constant moderate pressure while also keeping the screwdriver perfectly aligned with the screw, start to unscrew the fastener. I know this all sounds like screwdriver usage 101 but all of this dialogue is to prevent you from stripping the screw because they are up in the tracks and hard to reach with anything other than a screwdriver so take the time to prepare properly and proceed with caution. I was able to get all but one of my screws out and with no real difficulty, I was very happy and relieved I didn’t have any grief with these screws. The one I had trouble with just broke in half from the onset, I had to use a sharp awl to center punch it followed by a small drill bit to clean it out, that was a pain but I got it. I’m thinking it was overstressed when they originally installed it and it just snapped upon removal because I hardly put any twist into it when it gave.
2) Locate the stops in the upper tracks. Marinette installed stops to lock the forward pane in place from sliding backwards limiting you to only one pane, (the aft pane) to be operational. My stops were made out of a clear plastic and held in place with two SS screws. Upon removal of the stops they just crumbled in my hands due to the years of exposure. Upon reassembly I will be using teak for a replacement stop material. These stops are secured inside of the upper track directly behind the forward pane.
3) Next, remove the screws out of the lower tracks first, this will allow you to remove the lower track and two panes of glass first, you will go back and get the other three tracks after the lower track and two panes have been removed so leave the screws in place on these other three tracks until you’re ready to remove them one by one. Once you’ve removed the screws out of the lower track you will be able to partially pull the lower track outward toward you with the two panes of glass however due to the boats body configuration around these windows the track will come out only so far before it binds against the body. This is true for the two aft pairs of windows in the salon and the two aft pairs below in the cabin but not for the forward pairs, the forward pairs come right out with no body interference. Once you partially pull the lower track out to where it binds against the body you will then have to slide the track forward out from under the two panes of glass, this is where a helper comes in handy. Once you slide the track forward and free it from under the two panes one person should have the lower track in their hands while the other is holding two panes of glass. I was alone, I had absolutely no help and I pulled it off but doing it alone is precarious to say the least. If you removed the lower track and the two panes of glass the worst is over. Put them aside and move forward.
4) Now proceed to unscrew the forward and aft vertical tracks one at a time. Mine were held in place with two screws each and a sort of glue, it may have been a very thin application of caulk when new but when I popped the tracks free the bond between the tracks and the boats frame resembled a dry thin black glue like material. I had to purchase two sharp putty knives and a wooden mallet to help persuade the tracks out. First I tapped one of the putty knives into the tight seam between the track and the boats frame followed by the second putty knife an inch or so up continuing up the seam until the track was free. I was concerned that the use of these putty knives would leave scars but they didn’t, just make sure you use the really sharp ones allowing you to get into those tight seams. Be careful, this is where I fumbled one of my track sections and it went into the drink next to my boat, painful recovery but I got it back.
5) After you have removed the vertical tracks remove the upper track.
6) Take your four tracks to the work bench and remove all of the old cracked and crumbling Poly Glide material. Get a bucket of soapy water and a scrub brush and thoroughly clean your tracks with lots of rinse. Mine are twenty six years old, anodized bronze and I could not believe how nicely they cleaned up, like new.
7) Clean your glass panes in preparation for reassembly or replace with new. If you decide on new consider tempered glass over laminated with “Flat Polished” edges and “Dime Radius” corners with the radiuses also “Flat Polished”
8) Go back to the boat and clean out the areas that were hidden and covered by the tracks washing these areas clean as well. It’s a good time to sand, prime and top coat these areas before reassembly too.
9) You have also just exposed the screws that secure some of the interior teak trim if you are so inclined to remove this trim allowing you to clean, brighten and oil it, another good opportunity opened up.
10) Now insert your new Slide and Glide material into the tracks T-slot cutting it off flush on both ends of the track with a sharp single edge razor. Turn the track over with the new Slide and Glide material installed and using a drill bit the same size as the hole in the track drill through the holes in the track and through the new Slide and Glide material. Turn the track back right side up and holding it up to the light with your fingers keeping the Slide and Glide material flush to the ends of the track you should be seeing daylight through the two holes you just drilled, this will confirm you did everything in perfect alignment.
11) I personally use two sawhorses and a nice flat 2’ x 6’ piece of pine I purchased at a home center for my work table behind my boat. You will need something similar to work on for the next step.
12) Remove the Slide and Glide material out of the tracks T-slots and lay them flat on your flat work surface being careful not to mix them up and maintain which side is up. Purchase a countersink type of drill bit; this is a drill bit with the drill in the center and the countersink bit above it. Using this drill bit first drill a hole straight down into your wooden work surface, this hole will be repeatedly used over and over again as your guide while countersinking the holes you previously drilled in your Slide and Glide material. Now place your first strip of Slide and Glide material over the hole in your work surface and align the hole in the Slide and Glide material with the hole in the wooden work surface. Using the countersink bit in a hand drill proceed to drill a countersink in the Slide and Glide material. Use caution here as the Slide and Glide material needs to be held firmly in place and you need to find the correct speed on your variable speed hand drill. The first countersink I drilled failed because I was not holding the strip firmly and the strip just wrapped up on the drill and was mangled beyond use. After that lesson the rest went very smoothly. The reason for the countersink is to keep the screw heads from contacting the glass.
13) It is now time for reassembly. Install the upper track with the three new strips of Slide and Glide installed either using the original screws or new. I would recommend using a compound on the screws that would facilitate an easy removal in the future. Install the Aft and forward vertical tracks.
14) Lastly with the aid of a helper, place the two panes of glass and the window screen standing up into the lower track. Carefully finesse these four parts as one unit back into the frame, you will find yourself aligning the tops of the panes and screen into their respective slots of the upper track while you’re trying to maneuver and position into place. Once there you will need to install the screws in the lower track and reinstall the stops in the upper tracks.
15) This all sounds like a lot of work but it really isn’t bad. I had all eight windows out of my salon, tracks and all in fewer than four hours and I was alone. It took longer to clean everything once out. I don’t think I’ve forgotten anything but if you have any questions and I will be happy to help.
1990 Marinette 32' Sedan Fly Bridge "IKOI"
Twin Crusader 350's (Closed Loop Cooling)
Bow to Stern Full On Restoration in Progress
Chickamauga Lake, Tennessee
A boat is always safe at shore, but that's not what its built for...

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bcassedy
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Location: Aurora, In.
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Re: UPDATE: Poly Glide / Slide and Glide Wear Strip available in February

Postby bcassedy » Fri Jan 05, 2018 9:19 pm

Thanks Carl!!!
Much appreciated!

Bill
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
"Sunset Seeker"
'88 32' Sedan Bridge
Located in Aurora, In.
Twin 318cu in Chrysler
1.5:1 Velvet drive trannies
Fresh water only

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carl
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Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2015 5:58 pm

Re: UPDATE: Poly Glide / Slide and Glide Wear Strip available in February

Postby carl » Thu Feb 15, 2018 8:04 pm

Hello All,
I'm stuck in Asia on an assignment just a little longer than scheduled, I will be returning to the USA soon. The new rolls of Slide and Glide are waiting for me there. Once I have the rolls in hand I will update this post with a link to the eBay sale. Thank you for your patience...carl
1990 Marinette 32' Sedan Fly Bridge "IKOI"
Twin Crusader 350's (Closed Loop Cooling)
Bow to Stern Full On Restoration in Progress
Chickamauga Lake, Tennessee
A boat is always safe at shore, but that's not what its built for...