39' aft cabin waterline length

[balthaus]

Here is a 37' near Lexington KY
https://lexington.craigslist.org/boa/5357423648.html
Quite a bit further but the price might be right.

[l98ycar]

Both Gregory Boat sales in Detroit and Skipper Bud's at Belle Maer in Harrison Township have '39's for sale that I looked at before buying my '37. The one at Belle Maer is a nice boat (good paint and clean) but no canvas enclosures. The one at Gregory needs TLC, did not look at it too closely. Both are mid '80's boats and are asking upper $30's and did not seem too motivated late summmer time frame. I was interested in the one al Belle Maer in the low $20's (the salesman did not think they would go for it...) but ended up buying my 1978 '37 for less than $10k with both bridge and aft deck canvas - not without work to be done though, re-built a cylinder head and replaced an exhaust manifold and am working on a variety of smaller jobs over the winter. I bought my boat from Gregory Boat Sales and had a good experience (Gary Kohout is the salesman). Tim Wert at Skipper Bud's was helpful as well - neither were pushy at all.

[TinTub]

I have a 39 DC and a 4 axle trailer. We have to remove the bridge to transport. There is no advantage in removing seat posts, the feed tube for all the control cables and wiring stick up about as much as the seat posts. My trailer is set up so that I am under the 14' bridge height while still being able to keep the shafts and rudders in place. I remove the props just because. No way to avoid requirement for a chase car with the width and height.

I have also worked with aluminum and stainless epoxy bonding in industry. With proper metal etching and toughened epoxies, you can reach 4000 psi bond strength. But, except for the pre '80s boats, the stanchions are not aluminum so you still have to be concerned about galvanic corrosion. And, I'm not confident enough to eliminate the stainless screws. I have to refasten all my stanchions and facades/drip this year. I'm going to try 3M 4200 fast cure. The idea is to partially thread and wait for the 4200 to cure. Then, go back and tighten the screws to compress the cured caulk. I will also try to have caulk in the threads to reduce the metal contact. I came across a PPG zinc paste designed to prevent galvanic corrosion between stainless and aluminum, but I haven't been able to source it. Between that and the caulk, it may be possible to eliminate the corrosion issue.