Bow Rail Splice Insert

Corrosion, Paint, Through Hulls, etc.
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carl
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Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2015 5:58 pm

Bow Rail Splice Insert

Postby carl » Sun Aug 21, 2016 2:08 pm

I have the exterior of my boat completely stripped in preparation for painting the topsides. The fly bridge is also gutted awaiting removal. When I went to disassemble and remove my bow rail I could not separate one splice, rail to rail on the Port side, I tried everything, penetrating oil, pipe wrenches, wouldn't budge. Finally I took the hacksaw to it and cut through the internal splice and separated the two halves. Now I have two separate halves of the internal splice tube that joins the two bow rail sections together stuck in the two bow rails but this is the least of my problems, I can carefully cut them out internally and not harm the bow rails. My problem is I have searched the world wide web for Marine Bow Rail Splices, called them everything I could think of in laymen's terms and continually come up empty handed, nothing! Once I cut out the seized insert halves I can measure the ID of the bow rail tubing which is 7/8" tubing (not sure if that 7/8" as its known is ID or OD, because if its ID I will already have my measurement won't I). Anyway the joint between the two bow rail sections must be internally reinforced with this internal splice tube for strength and rigidity not to mention the safety factor. Where do I find the internal splice tube? This is a challenge because again I searched high and low!
1990 Marinette 32' Sedan Fly Bridge "IKOI"
Twin Crusader 350's (Closed Loop Cooling)
Bow to Stern Full On Restoration in Progress
Chickamauga Lake, Tennessee
A boat is always safe at shore, but that's not what its built for...

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Busia
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Re: Bow Rail Splice Insert

Postby Busia » Sun Aug 21, 2016 2:38 pm

You could just change the whole piece of railing to get rid of the splice, or measure it and make an inside sleeve. Sleeve should be stainless, hollow tube or solid bar. Easy to make with a lathe or just a good file with oversize stock.
BUSIA
located in Ketchikan, Alaska. Gods country
32 foot Marinette express. (no fly bridge)
twin 350 Crusader (Chev 350) engines
1:1 Borg Warner velvet drive transmissions
Closed cooling (antifreeze in the engine)
Proud to be retired IBEW

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carl
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Re: Bow Rail Splice Insert

Postby carl » Sun Aug 21, 2016 2:56 pm

Changing out the whole piece of bow rail either side is out of the question because the aft section is one solid run without anymore splices and the forward section runs out around my pulpit with everything perfectly bent and aligned, vertical bow rail supports in place and the deck screw holes all set to receive my new aluminum poly nuts, I'm not messing with the rails because even after 26 years they are in excellent shape. The inside sleeve or splice inserts as I call them are hollow, the Starboard side separated with a little persuasion, the splice I hacksawed cut like aluminum but I will confirm that once removed. I'm away on assignment right now but this conversation has me wondering if the rails are aluminum or stainless on my boat, just didn't look at that, we all know how dissimilar metals react to one another so this is another very important consideration before moving ahead with the splice material, thank you for mentioning stainless because that alone got me thinking about something I have not yet determined. I think your right, I might have to fabricate my own but this internal splice has to be at least eight inches long and I won't attempt that with a hand file as it would be like trying to bust out of Shawshank, take me twenty years. If I need to, I will as you suggested head for the lathe. Here is one worthwhile observation, the shelves are full of helpful compounds we can easily use to prevent situations like this, as you know never-seeze compounds come in several different mixtures, once I separate everything I will scotchbrite all of these internal sleeves and the ID of the bow rails then use the appropriate never-seeze to prevent this from being an issue again in the future for me or whomever the lucky new owner of my boat might be. Simple preventative maintenance 101.
1990 Marinette 32' Sedan Fly Bridge "IKOI"
Twin Crusader 350's (Closed Loop Cooling)
Bow to Stern Full On Restoration in Progress
Chickamauga Lake, Tennessee
A boat is always safe at shore, but that's not what its built for...

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bill
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Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2014 7:17 am
Location: Grosse Ile MI

Re: Bow Rail Splice Insert

Postby bill » Sun Aug 21, 2016 6:11 pm

BigM
Sounds like you got it handled, :D Handrail :roll:
Pretty sure the rail material is stainless with stainless insert. Fitting on some of the earlier Marinette bow rails we're aluminum. 8-)

bill
Last edited by bill on Tue Jul 25, 2017 6:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
ALUMINATION
Grosse Ile MI
Located on LakeErie
37' F/B Sedan
1975
Twin 360 Chrysler Marine
Raw water cooled
Hydraulic steering both helms
USCG Master Lic. Retired

Third Owner bill

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carl
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Re: Bow Rail Splice Insert

Postby carl » Mon Jul 24, 2017 9:00 pm

FINALLY! I like to think of myself as a resourceful individual and I certainly did not ever quit looking, but these bow rail splices took me only eleven short months to find, I searched high and low and called them everything under the sun, made countless phone calls to no avail, never considered simply calling them "Tube Connectors". I did determine that my bow rails are stainless and I successfully removed the two halves of the old internal splice material that I hacksawed through, I cut these out of the ID of both rail halves, the splice was an aluminum splice explaining why it was corroded in there, another bad decision by the factory placing dissimilar metals together. Here is the link to the new splices I will be installing which are nylon: http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/63-tube-connectors
Attachments
Tube Connectors.png
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1990 Marinette 32' Sedan Fly Bridge "IKOI"
Twin Crusader 350's (Closed Loop Cooling)
Bow to Stern Full On Restoration in Progress
Chickamauga Lake, Tennessee
A boat is always safe at shore, but that's not what its built for...