Before I crank and sitting for years

Engines, Shafts, Steering, Struts, Rudders, etc.
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RustyBoat
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Before I crank and sitting for years

Postby RustyBoat » Sun Aug 17, 2014 10:49 am

I have a 70's model Fisherman 32' with twin 318's. It has been sitting for I don't know how long and wanted to make sure I take all the proper steps before I crank them up. I believe one of them wont turn over and I was told it wasn't frozen from overheating just from sitting. Any advise would be appreciated.
1968 32' Fisherman
beginning restoration fall of 2014

Lake Sidney Lanier

Supersport18
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Re: Before I crank and sitting for years

Postby Supersport18 » Sun Aug 17, 2014 1:35 pm

Pull plugs and pour Marvel Mystery Oil into combustion chamber. Let it set for a day or two. Look on plugs for rust or bent electrode. After setting get a breaker bar on crankshaft and slowly work back and forth a little at a time until engine will turn completely over. Drain old gas completely. Drain oil and replace with fresh. Replace impellers. Carb rebuild wouldn't hurt, probably a lot of residue from evaporated gas. Take a look at distributor and make sure advance springs not rusted in place. Check dist. caps and wires and if all looks good try to fire them up. Keep a fire extinguisher at hand. If they run fine do a compression test to see what condition they are in. Good luck!
1986 Sedan Flybridge
Twin 318 closed loop
" Little Martha"
Traverse City,Mi
Hydraulic Steering (both helms)
Autopilot (both helms)

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marinetteman
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Re: Before I crank and sitting for years

Postby marinetteman » Mon Aug 18, 2014 2:19 am

And replace impellers.
Thank you
37 Foot Sedan Twin EFI Crusader 350s
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ericinga
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Re: Before I crank and sitting for years

Postby ericinga » Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:50 am

Are you a "good" mechanic or have a good mechanic friend? If not, have someone give them a once over.

The enemy of an old motor is friction. Friction in an old motor is caused by carbon buildup and tough old seals. Carbon builds up in the piston rings and causes them to sieze in place. A seized ring will score a cylinder, cause future compression leaks and ruin a good motor. Tough old seals can cause the same damage to valves and crankshaft main journals.

Do yourself a favor, and GO SLOW. Remember, the motors are four decades old. Take your time.

FWIW - For both motors, I would do the following.
1)Put diapers under the motors. You will make a mess. No sense leaving one in the bilge.
2) Buy a couple gallons of Marvels Mystery Oil (MMO) at Walmart and a squirt can. $19 / gallon. You can also use automatic transmission fluid (ATF). The distillates break down carbon and impregnate rubber with oil.
3) Pull the plugs and valve covers. Liberally apply MMO or ATF. To me, liberal means cover the valve stem and shoot four or more squirts in every plug hole.
4) Repeat this process for a couple of weeks. Allow the rings and seals to soak up the oil.
5) DO NOT TURN THE MOTOR. Let it soak.

After a few weeks of soaking, start cranking the motor by hand with a socket wrench or breaker bar.
1) Turn the motors a full revolution.
2) Add oil to the cylinders and valve train.
3) Wait a day or two.
4) Turn the motor(s) again. Go back to step 2.

You do this slowly to break up the carbon buildup and move the rings around the piston.

While freeing the motors, I would:
1) Empty the fuel tanks. If currently empty, either flush the fuels tanks or place inline filters on fuels lines at the carb and before the fuel pump. Keep four spares on board. You'll be changing them alot.
2) Pull the carbs and rebuild or replace them. You will want to have them dipped to clear the passages. You can buy carb dip at NAPA. If in doubt, send them out to a reputable rebulder. $150 / ea., good as new and save headaches.
3) Pull the distributors. Diassemble, test, lube and reassemble.
4) Test the ignition components. Replace as needed.
5) Have the alternators bench tested (free at parts stores).
6) Have the starters bench tested (free at parts stores).
7) Replace thermostats.
8) Inspect cooling hoses for leaks, cracks, wear, etc. If in doubt replace.
9) If close cooled, flush the system.
10) Check the exhaust manifolds for rust, holes, etc.

If it were my boat, I'd pull the heads straight away, lube the cylinders directly, follow the above procedure, rebuild the heads and then do everything else.

If you want help, PM me. I think you live an hour away.

Eric
Eric Spies
1989 32 SDFB
Twin 318s
Lake Lanier, GA
Marinette Boat

ericinga
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Re: Before I crank and sitting for years

Postby ericinga » Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:57 am

BTW-

I saw the 32 express while trolling craigslist and was thinking about buying the hull for parts if it comes with that trailer. It's in rough shape but there might be a few items worth salvaging on it.

Eric
Eric Spies
1989 32 SDFB
Twin 318s
Lake Lanier, GA
Marinette Boat

Supersport18
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Re: Before I crank and sitting for years

Postby Supersport18 » Mon Aug 18, 2014 10:56 am

I agree with everything Eric says. My version was very basic . If you do pull the heads, you might want to go the rest of the way and rebuild. Good luck!
1986 Sedan Flybridge
Twin 318 closed loop
" Little Martha"
Traverse City,Mi
Hydraulic Steering (both helms)
Autopilot (both helms)

Supersport18
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Joined: Wed Jul 16, 2014 3:52 am

Re: Before I crank and sitting for years

Postby Supersport18 » Mon Aug 18, 2014 11:01 am

More than likely, if it's seized up, you will want to rebuild it soon. Wouldn't trust any motor that was in that condition, even if you do get it started.
1986 Sedan Flybridge
Twin 318 closed loop
" Little Martha"
Traverse City,Mi
Hydraulic Steering (both helms)
Autopilot (both helms)

ericinga
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Posts: 166
Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2014 11:21 am
Location: Cumming, GA

Re: Before I crank and sitting for years

Postby ericinga » Mon Aug 18, 2014 2:44 pm

I used to think the same thing about carbon or rust seized motors. Then I watched a neighbor pull a siezed up nasty looking Pontiac 455 out of a mid 70s TransAM. He followed similar steps and produced a running engine three months later. Never gave him a problem afterward. It was never perfect but ran well.

A heat seized motor is an entirely different story.

If the compression and leak down tests are good I'd run 'Em.

If we could afford perfect, there would be a fleet of Burger motor yachts re badged with Marinette logos.

Eric
Eric Spies
1989 32 SDFB
Twin 318s
Lake Lanier, GA
Marinette Boat

Supersport18
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Re: Before I crank and sitting for years

Postby Supersport18 » Mon Aug 18, 2014 4:44 pm

Not sure what your getting at Eric. It sounded like he is only trying to get the engines started to assess their condition. Automotive engines do not take the constant loading that a marine engine takes. If he gets a season out of it he might be happy. If he gets ten seasons he would be incredibly lucky. Most Big M owners with original high hour engines are considering a repower or have done so already . Hopefully he doesn't have to rebuild. All depends on what condition the engine is in. As you pointed out, seals tend to dry out over time and no amount of MM oil or tranny fluid is going to make them like new. Car breaks down you are stranded on the road. Boat breaks down you're going on the rocks, hitting another boat or generally getting in harms way, usually with a a mess of people on board. It is just my opinion that a rebuild be considered. To tear an engine down as far as pulling off the heads, might as well pull the motors and rebuild,anyway. Again,just my opinion.
1986 Sedan Flybridge
Twin 318 closed loop
" Little Martha"
Traverse City,Mi
Hydraulic Steering (both helms)
Autopilot (both helms)

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RustyBoat
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Re: Before I crank and sitting for years

Postby RustyBoat » Tue Aug 19, 2014 8:55 am

I consider myself a good mechanic. Thats why I was comfortable buying this boat because I knew it would cost too much if I didnt do the work myself. I have experience doing complete engine rebuilds (1983 Toyota 22R) but that was a 4 cylinder and now i have 16 which is a lot more time consuming.

I was told that one engine turns free and the other doesnt turn over. Also that a tooth may be missing from one of the flywheels and one of the shafts is bent (hopefully the same side missing the tooth). I dont have any experience rebuilding the stuffing boxes or replacing bushings but definitely need to do so this winter.

My goal is to get one season out of the engines if possible. I am investing too much money this year to include fully rebuilding the engines. I even have a forklift at work I can pull them out with and space in my garage.

Eric, I need to keep the trailer but if your still interested in the Hull I can deliver it for you. I need to get that boat off the trailer asap so I can get the fisherman out of the water(overstayed its welcome at current dock) and start working on it for next season. If nobody buys it im going to be forced to buy boat stands and make blocks for the keel in order to get it off the trailer. I have a nice spot behind my building at work to keep it on the hard until I have time to either cut up with a plasma cutter, convert into center console, or sell.
1968 32' Fisherman
beginning restoration fall of 2014

Lake Sidney Lanier