Fuel system upgrades

Engines, Shafts, Steering, Struts, Rudders, etc.
Tranquilo
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Re: Fuel system upgrades

Postby Tranquilo » Mon Sep 21, 2015 9:13 am

The problem ended up being the fuel tank.

I put the electric fuel pump in and it was no different. I ran the engine out of a 5 gallon gas can and it was a different machine. I got a larger plastic tank that I'm in the process of installing. The fuel that was drained from the old tank looked like mud.

After I get the tank installed, I'm just going ahead and rebuilding the carb (may replace with another if it ends up being cheaper - sad that this is a reality when dealing with rebuild shops)

Any advice on a carb rebuild? My start issues didn't resolve themselves with the electric pump and tank. The carb hasn't been touched in forever.
2x 1973 28 Express - Single 318
New electrical panels, water system and velvet drive
Miami FL & Catawba OH

jmonday
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Re: Fuel system upgrades

Postby jmonday » Mon Sep 21, 2015 11:15 am

I like my Elderbrock 1409. If you dont know of a good carb man with the right stuff to do the job correct the 1409 is a sure thing. NOTE: Make sure you have an electirc pump under 6PSI they do not like pressure over that!!
Jeff Monday (Blue Mondays)
1973 28 ft Express single 318 1976 StarCraft Islander 1961 Sea Nymph
Lower River rd
Rabbit Hash KY

barkleydave
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Re: Fuel system upgrades

Postby barkleydave » Mon Sep 21, 2015 11:17 am

IMO Since your are going through the boat replacing the fuel tank.... I would replace the carbs with Edelbrock 1409's and be done with it.

I have rebuilt Rochesters and the results are often a crap shoot.

safe harbors
dave
1987 Marinette 29 FB Sedan
Retired Boat Accident UL and USCG trained investigator
Retired USCG Captain

Tranquilo
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Re: Fuel system upgrades

Postby Tranquilo » Wed Sep 23, 2015 9:25 am

I have the 1409's already and am just debating new vs rebuild. I'm in Miami and the lack of good techs here makes me uneasy. I can get a new unit for $400 and have a backup or try to rebuild it myself.

Anyone have experience with different manifolds?
2x 1973 28 Express - Single 318
New electrical panels, water system and velvet drive
Miami FL & Catawba OH

Fastjeff
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Re: Fuel system upgrades

Postby Fastjeff » Thu Sep 24, 2015 5:39 am

If you shop Amazon, you can buy 'em cheaper than that.

Jeff
"We live at the bottom of an ocean of air, not at the top." General Marvage Slatington

Tranquilo
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Re: Fuel system upgrades

Postby Tranquilo » Thu Sep 24, 2015 9:45 am

Sounds like I should just get a new one :)
2x 1973 28 Express - Single 318
New electrical panels, water system and velvet drive
Miami FL & Catawba OH

Fastjeff
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Re: Fuel system upgrades

Postby Fastjeff » Thu Sep 24, 2015 5:46 pm

That's my recommendation. I bought a used one of eBay and it was junk.

Jeff
"We live at the bottom of an ocean of air, not at the top." General Marvage Slatington

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bcassedy
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Re: Fuel system upgrades

Postby bcassedy » Fri Jun 22, 2018 5:52 pm

I'm pulling this post back up as I find that I need to replace the starboard engine's manual fuel pump. I've decided to go the electronic route for a number of reasons:
1. It's cheaper. A new manual fuel pump on Ebay is selling for 110.00 . NAPA would cost even more - 150.00
2. I can place it such that it'll be a lot easier to install / work on. Shoehorning my bod between the bottom of the settee and the top of the engine just doesn't cut it. And making it easier would mean dismantling the settee and placing outside in the cockpit area. For a complete spark plug wire redo, that's doable. For a fuel pump... Not happenin'.

From Fast Jeff's post earlier:
>>> "After using a boost pump system (T'eed into the carbs with a check valve to prevent back flow) I eventually went to electric fuel pumps instead of the mechanical pumps with a bypass switch to run the pumps when oil pressure was not present. (The bypass switch should have been a momentary type, and I've advised the new owner to make that change. It's necessary, I think, to be USCG legal.)

If you'll want to go this way, you'll need a marine approved electric pump, and a normally open oil pressure switch. (Oil pressure, it completes the ground circuit, turning on the pump.) The bypass switch does the same thing, taking about 5 to 10 seconds to fill an empty carb.

Additional items: A simple 1/4 inch aluminum plate was used to block off where the mechanical pump went. Being anal (hah!) I used a relay to power the fuel pump directly off the 12 volt connection at the starter solenoid. To trigger the relay, I connected it to the ignition power wire at the ballast resistor.

Note: Why the relay? I didn't want the oil pressure switch contacts to handle the amps the pump requires.

Let me know if you want to do this and need any additional help.
" <<<

The question I have, as it relates to Fast Jeff's above post...
- on the rear of the engine is/are what I believe to be an oil pressure switch (see photo).
-> Am I correct? ( the 2 wire connected device - RED arrow on pic)
- If so, it appears that this is already in use for some functionality on the engine.

Oil pressure switch 1.jpg


--> I would then believe I'd need to:
a. find another location on the engine to install a new NO oil pressure switch -or-
b. install a "T" at the current location, reinstall the current oil pressure switch AND install a new NO oil pressure switch.
--> is "b." doable / workable?

I'd think the installation of my current ignition type switch (OFF - ON - MOMENTARY ON) would function as Jeff indicates.
ie. In MOMENTARY ON - the oil pressure switch scenario is bypassed to allow for priming the carburetor. Engine not cranking.
In ON - the ignition switch is now activated, cranking the engine. As oil pressure builds during cranking (and resulting engine run
the fuel pump is activated, sending fuel to the carb normally.

Jeff,
If your offer for providing help is still available, would greatly appreciate it.


Bill
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
"Sunset Seeker"
'88 32' Sedan Bridge
Located in Aurora, In.
Twin 318cu in Chrysler
1.5:1 Velvet drive trannies
Fresh water only

jralbert
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Re: Fuel system upgrades

Postby jralbert » Fri Jun 22, 2018 8:49 pm

Bill..I know this isn't exact responsive to your query - Jeff is THE man on this issue - but just wanted to pass along that I think the unit directly above the one you marked is the oil press alarm. I'm just writing to suggest you have a spare or two of these things because they're a failure point for major oil leakage. They love to crack for some darn reason. Happened to me twice and I was lucky a) to have caught it very early and b) have a couple of spares thanx to the first owner.
-joel-
former owner 1988 '32 FB Sedan
Chesapeake Bay
twin 318 / 240 hp
Potomac MD

Fastjeff
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Re: Fuel system upgrades

Postby Fastjeff » Sat Jun 23, 2018 7:07 am

The oil pressure switch (not the pressure gage sender) has two wires on it.

Think of it as an automotive idiot light switch (which is what it's used for): Oil pressure opens the circuit and the 'light' goes out. With no oil pressure, the circuit closes and energizes a relay to shut off the 'light'. The 'light' in this case is the electric fuel pump. You'll need a Borch type relay to run the pump (eBay--cheap). The oil pressure switch is tied into the coil energizing loop of the relay so the fuel pump will stop when the oil pressure drops. I used the ground side of this circuit (through the oil pump switch).

On my old boat, I rigged up a momentary switch to run the fuel pump(s). When the boat sat a while the carbs were empty, thanks to fuel evaporation. Ten seconds on that momentary switch ran the e-pump(s) long enough to fill the carbs, resulting in a fast fire up. Worked slick, and it's CG legal.

Jeff

PS: I can publish the circuit diagram if you need it.
"We live at the bottom of an ocean of air, not at the top." General Marvage Slatington