winterizing question

[wmgill]

I plan to winterize my own engines this year. Used to do it on the diesel inboard of my sailboat, but Chrysler 360s are a bit different.

I have seen the jigs that connect to the intakes from outside the hull, but they require 2 people (one inside and one outside the boat). In the past I have closed the through hulls, and run a hose into the strainers for on shore maintenance. So I know I can add antifreeze the same way, but I need to observe the expelled water to watch for antifreeze. The cooling water exits the block near the water pump, splits and takes heater hose back to the rear of the exhaust manifolds. I assume the connection at the manifold is the last place the water goes before being expelled with the exhaust. I want to disconnect the heater hose from the manifold, connect it to a "Y" extension (to get both inboard and outboard) and route it back to where I can watch it dump into the bilge. Then when I see the blue antifreeze, I can hook that end of the hose into the strainer to recirculate it back into the system long enough for me to fog the engine (which I don't think the yard mechanics ever do).

Can anyone see anything wrong with this plan? I'm pretty sure that's how the yard mechanics have been doing things (sans the "Y", recycling, and fogging parts).

[TinLizzy]

If it's raw water cooled, pull the drain plugs on each side of the block, you might have to use a wire to make sure all dirt or rust scale isn't plugging the hole. Pull the center plug on each manifold, and make sure that is clear also. Crank engine over til it fires and than let it run for a couple seconds, than shut off, this should clear the water in the intake line. Pull the hose off the through hull fitting, pour anti freeze in hose, fire up engine, run at least a gallon through hose, shut it down, make sure you have anti freeze coming out of block and manifolds. Reinstall plugs and put hose back on intake thru hull. Done. I also fog my engine right before I pull it out of the water.

[wmgill]

I was hoping I could avoid pulling the block plugs. 35 years, and 35 lbs ago, that might not have been a problem, but getting to the outboard side of the block, and still being able to get back has proven to be a challenge, and that's a scary proposition when there is no one around to hear me call for help if I get stuck.

What you describe is very similar to the little old diesel, but I have found that I don't have to pull the hose on the through hull, because closing the intake valve, and opening the strainer gives me a nice bowl to pour antifreeze into. Now I have to figure how to fog it under this scenario. May have to pull plugs and spray each cylinder. Fun.

[jralbert]

You need to say if it's RW or FW cooled. If fresh, here's what I did in my FWC engines. I used three gals of AF poured directly into the strainer bowl while engine idled (in or out of the water). The breather cap atop the carb was pulled. While I poured in the last half gallon (yeah, it was a little tricky to be multi-tasking here) with one hand, I sprayed fogging oil into the card until the engine sputtered and when the AF was in, gave it a final, big shot of fogging oil. The engine stalled and I was done. Your 360 might take a little more AF - I don't know. Another half gal wouldn't hurt.

When I first got the boat, it was a two person job, with the admiral yelling out when AF came out of the exhaust. Once I figured out the amount of AF, she lost that job and I put her at the ignition switch in case the engine didn't stall on its own. If you are nimble enough, you can jump up to the dash to kill the ignition (just a few seconds) and there shouldn't be any danger of engine overheat due to low coolant.

The entire process took about three minutes.

If you have raw water cooled engines, go back up the thread to the advice on pulling plugs.

[wmgill]

Just to be sure I'm not getting my terms confused, I do not have 2 separate water systems (one open and one closed). I have 1 open system (lake water drawn up through the seacock, through the engine and directly out the exhaust). That should be what's called a raw water cooling system.

The commercially available rigs connect to the intake in the hull. I want to eliminate that by just starting at the strainer (so I can do everything from inside the boat). Those systems have someone observe the water as it expels with the exhaust. I want to divert the water just before it gets to the exhaust manifold, connect the two heater hoses to a "Y" connector, and hose (my jig) so I can observe the expelled water (as it dumps into the bilge) until it turns blue (antifreeze), then redirect it back into the strainer instead of dumping it into the bilge. Why is this not sufficient? Is it because the antifreeze may not properly fill or circulate the block? Is there something I am missing?

[jralbert]

Just to be sure I'm not getting my terms confused, I do not have 2 separate water systems (one open and one closed). I have 1 open system (lake water drawn up through the seacock, through the engine and directly out the exhaust). That should be what's called a raw water cooling system.

You are correct and thank you for clarifying it's a raw water cooled system - that determines how you proceed with winterization. The process I described is for fresh water cooled setups.

[TinLizzy]

WMGILL, my biggest worry would be not knowing if you are getting all the water flushed out of the block. When you run anti freeze thru the strainer it will mostly go right out the exhaust, and not much will make it to the block if the thermostat is not opened. If nothing else drain the plugs that you can get to, and than do your method.

[barkleydave]

Ok here is a method I have used for over 40 years even up in the North.

On my M I added flush bypass valves so I can pull antifreeze through the engine while boat remains in the water. I close my sea cocks then open the bypass and connect hose to them and pull from a bucket.

1. Close your thru hull sea cocks.
2. Drain engine manifolds and block. six per engine. I also open the large plug on the rear of my log manifolds.
3. Make sure the drains are open use a wire to remove rush sludge etc.
4. Put plugs back in.
5. Remove thermostat. Very important!
6. Put 4 gallons of non toxic antifreeze in bucket and insert hose in bucket.
7. Have helper start engine while you keep hose in bucket. Shut off just prior to sucking air. (I can do it solo )
8. Close bypass valve
9. Install thermostat with new gasket if needed.
10. Disconnect coil wire.
11. Pour 6 oz of Marvel Mystery oil or fogging oil in carb.
12. Turn engine over for 3 seconds. The vacuum wil suck the oil into the CYLs and valves.

Engine is now winterized.

Safe storage,

dave

[Fastjeff]

I used to pour the Pink Stuff right into the open strainer (with the sea rooster closed). Took 4 gallons. The Admiral shut the motors off after that 4th gallon was sucked in.

Jeff

[wmgill]

Good points, all. Not really a surprise, I guess I was hoping someone would say "Go ahead, and take the easy way, it'll be fine." but no such luck. So it looks like the drain plugs are coming out.

Have been wondering about the thermostats for a couple years, because I know yard mechanics don't bother with them, and I'm sure they don't run things long enough for them to open up.

Just two more questions. I saw someone post somewhere here about their exhaust hose overheating. If I divert the water just before it enters the exhaust manifold, and recirculate the water long enough to warm the engine (and open the thermostat) will that cause me any problems?

Also, at the risk of sparking a great debate, I've seen lots of back and forth on using the pink stuff in the engines. I have read that it does semi-freeze into slush, but if it won't burst plastic plumbing, I don't see how it will burst anything in the engine. What are everyone's thoughts?

By the way, I'm planning on wiring in an auxiliary start/run switch for the engine compartment to give me more control while I'm working down there. Here's my wiring diagram if anyone is interested. All you need is a TPDT (center off) switch, a SPST (on/off) switch, and a momentary contact switch (either push button, or spring loaded toggle), all easily available at auto parts stores. Housing or panel is up to your own creativity. I may wire it through a quick disconnect, like a trailer wiring connector, or mount it on the bulkhead behind the batteries. I haven't decided yet. The problems with the quick disconnect approach are the possibility of dropping the switch box into the bilge, finding connectors with adequate wire gauge, and the probability of losing it before I need it again .

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