Engines, Shafts, Steering, Struts, Rudders, etc.
Tin star
Posts: 88
Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2015 12:39 pm


Postby Rockxx » Sun Feb 05, 2017 2:08 pm

Good afternoon to all,
Having spent a miserable, expensive and frustrating 2016 boating season due to engine problems, I've come to the realization that I've got to re-power or get out of boating (again). I purposely bought my 72 28' express for the reason that it was a basic platform that I could handle at my age. Single 318, no generator, no air, manual head, ice box, etc. Summit racing offers a reman marine 318 long block for 2200.00 with free shipping and wondering if anyone has had experience with these folks. Also if I go with this option does anyone have any idea as to what the total swap out would cost. I'm within hauling distance of Chattanooga and would be willing to haul the boat there if one of you Chickamauga folks have any suggestions. Being retired I'm limited as to what resources I can throw at this so any help would be appreciated.

With regards to all,

Aluminum Star
Posts: 176
Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2016 8:27 pm

Re: Re-power

Postby honestcharlie56 » Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:32 pm

Cost is hard to estimate, as alot has to do with your marina/shipyard. If you would be kind enough to thoroughly detail your engine problems we would be glad to help. There are some really knowledgeable folks here!!!
1990 Marinette 32 Sedan Flybridge "Hubba"
Twin Chrysler 318's

Tin star
Posts: 88
Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2015 12:39 pm

Re: Re-power

Postby Rockxx » Sun Feb 05, 2017 8:48 pm

A good part of the problem is the availability of a mechanic that's familiar with the old Chrysler engines. I'm 73 and my guy is a year older than me. Started with a dead cylinder and determined that a valve job was in order. Mechanic went down with an injury and lost 5 weeks, after pulling the heads. Reworked both heads and in reinstalling cracked the starboard side as it had been machined the max when reworked. Said it was torqued correctly but who knows. Finally found a replacement head, that had to be reworked, and got it installed. Then found a leak in the starboard manifold and Wayne, dependo, Southern Lady, was kind enough to give me a replacement. Finally in Oct it was supposed to be finished. Ran it, couldn't get better than 2,000 rpm
And the manifold leaked from the end plates. Also had a small oil leak on the recently installed starboard head gasket. Went ahead and winterized and there she sits. payed for the parts but withheld labor until fixed. Will give him a chance to get his money but won't be disappointed if he doesn't return. Looking for alternatives.

Aluminum Star
Posts: 143
Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:00 am

Re: Re-power

Postby ddependo » Mon Feb 06, 2017 1:03 pm

I feel your physical & $$ pain. I have been there. Sometimes I just want to have a new engine when all I need is a Carb or Dist. I would hate to spend the money only to find It was an ignition issue keeping it from going over 2000 rpms. There is a better head gasket out there, {Jeff will know}

My Marina charges about $5,000 for long block & labor to put in a jasper engine.
1973 32 express fly bridge
"Southern Lady"

New poster
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 10:30 am

Re: Re-power

Postby Ray4713 » Mon Feb 06, 2017 6:50 pm

I think we met back in the fall at H Dock...I am the new owner of "Brown Eyes" Previous owner had a mechanic and really liked him ad he is on Center Hill. I don't have any experience with him but if you want I can give you the contact info. And since I am at Center Hill I will be glad to help or assist.

Site Admin
Posts: 760
Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2014 5:06 am

Re: Re-power

Postby Fastjeff » Tue Feb 07, 2017 6:10 am

Hate to say it, but your mechanic is in over his head. No other excuse for so many leakage problems.

The exhaust manifold to riser joints WILL leak water into the motor unless they are spotlessly clean, have new gaskets, and are siliconed on both sides. Also, one has to tighten the 4 bolts correctly: Snug the top two (to hold up the weight), then cross tighten the 4 bolts, going from heavy snug to fully tight. Finally, add a flat or two after the motor warms up. Violate this procedure and water will leak into the motor. (Don't ask!)

The head gaskets should not leak unless: the block/ head is not flat (check with a flat file and bluing), the gasket is faulty somehow (unlikely), or the head was improperly torqued.

"We live at the bottom of an ocean of air, not at the top." General Marvage Slatington

Aluminum Star
Posts: 175
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 12:37 pm

Re: Re-power

Postby EWRice » Tue Feb 07, 2017 3:08 pm

I will second what Jeff said. Other than the rear main seal, you have to work pretty hard to create leaks with new gaskets. Chryslers have large gasket surfaces compared to other automotive engines, and usually seal up tight.
Muskegon Lake
1972 32' Express flybridge
Twin 318s
On board air & prime 920
1963 Thompson Super Sea Lancer
Graymarine 327
1961 Alumacraft 12'
'55 10hp Johnson

User avatar
Aluminum Star
Posts: 174
Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2014 12:21 am

Re: Re-power

Postby Busia » Tue Feb 07, 2017 5:11 pm

These boats really are rather simple. Sometimes hard to reach with limited room. A good mechanic should not have a problem if you can get the parts.
If you keep away from complicated electronics and outboards you make things a lot easier. Sometimes we learn the hard way unfortunately. Wish you have better luck in the future. --Ed
located in Ketchikan, Alaska. Gods country
32 foot Marinette express. (no fly bridge)
twin 350 Crusader (Chev 350) engines
1:1 Borg Warner velvet drive transmissions
Closed cooling (antifreeze in the engine)
Proud to be retired IBEW

Tin star
Posts: 88
Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2015 12:39 pm

Re: Re-power

Postby Rockxx » Tue Feb 07, 2017 8:24 pm

Thanks to all for the responses to my earlier post. Went to the boat today for the first time since the first of November in order to charge the batteries, which I should have done a month ago. Damn, the old boat was standing tall, pretty clean, bilge dry and no boat smell, even in the head. Per suggestions from several I'm going to address the exhaust manifold water leaks and probably look at replacing the "original" distributor, plus add electronic ignition. Any suggestions on the best replacements for these items would be appreciated. After this I'll address the carb, if needed. Engine has 1200 hours and had good compression when checked prior to the repair work. Ray4713, walked around Brown Eyes while I was there and every thing looked good, except for that 15 degree list to starboard. (Just kidding) that's a damn fine boat..
My regards to all

Return to “Drivetrain”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest