Fuel Tank Removal
-
complextool
- New poster
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2025 11:17 am
Fuel Tank Removal
I have a fuel contamination problem in my 1973 32 foot Marinette with a fly bridge. I have tried everything with adding filters etc. to stop the particles from the fuel tank from entering carburetors, but the first of now 3 filters per motor gets plugged in 20 minutes and the engines will only idle at that point. The second inline is completely clear fuel as you would expect. It's now time to remove the 80 gallon (I believe is the stock) gas tank. Has anyone had to remove the deck floor to get one out? The tank sits right in the middle, about 5 feet aft of engines. Is the angle iron supporting the deck floor welded or bolted? I will be getting into this project in the spring. It's in storage 3 hrs away, so I haven't looked around underneath too much yet. Is there a way to flush the tank without removing it? Any help would be appreciated.
Re: Fuel Tank Removal
Not cheap, I suppose, but there are commercial fuel cleaners. Google for any in your area. Or to educate yourself, google for any and discuss the options. They will, I think, be happy to help. Good luck. When I owned CharlieB, the last years were plagued with fuel issues. Expensive to remedy, I'm afraid.
-joel-
former owner 1988 '32 FB Sedan
Chesapeake Bay
twin 318 / 240 hp
Potomac MD
former owner 1988 '32 FB Sedan
Chesapeake Bay
twin 318 / 240 hp
Potomac MD
Re: Fuel Tank Removal
A number of years ago I made the mistake of leaving the gas cap on our 32' Sedan Bridge off...
This was in the spring and a number of heavy rains dumped a lot of water in the tank.
To clear the water and contaminated fuel I made up a rig:
- several feet of reinforced vinyl hose
- a 12v fiel pump from NAPA
- a 4" piece of brass pipe
- 4' of copper tubing
- 2 long lengths of copper wire (red + / black - )
- toggle switch
- 2 larger alligator clips
- new gas tank sending unit hole gasket
- 5 gallon water jug
- a number of 5 gallon gas cans
Process -
*** MAKE SURE BATTERY POWER SQITCHES ARE >> OFF <<
1. I slipped the brass pipe over the end of vinyl hose holding in place using copper wire twisted around end of the hose, up and around the pipe and finally around the hose, twisted tight above the pipe.
2. Tie weap / copper tie the copper tube to the vinyl hose about 18" from the hose/brass pipe end. This will provide flexibility to move the weighted end of the hose around the bottom of the tank
3. Connect one end of each wire to its associated alligator clip.
4. The wires should be sufficiently long to run from the battery to the gas tank area, with some slack
5. Cut the black wire about 4' from the free end.
6. Strip & Connect the newly cut black wire ends to the toggle switch, leaving the switch in the off
7. Connect the red & black wire(from the switch) to the fuel pump
*** tape over connections to prevent shorting to hull..
8. Using a black sharpie mark the tank's sending unit so the mark shows the alignment needed when your done.
9. Disconnect the sending wire and ground wire from the sending unit
10. Remove the screws in the sending unit and carefully remove the sending unit. Lay it aside well away from the tank.
NOTE - make a note of sender's orientation as it comes out of hole. There are baffles inside tank and these could interfere with sender's arm if it's insured incorrectly.
11. Place the open end of the hose into the 5 gallon water jug.
- This is your
12. You can now lower the hose/tube down into the tank.
13. Connect the alligator clips to the appropriate battery terminals
14. Turn on the toggle switch.
15. You can safely** maneuver the hose by moving the copper tube back and forth to syphon the gas out of the tank and into the 5 gallon water jug. The water jugs clear construction will allow you to visually check the level. Turn off toggle switch, remove hose from jug and transfer to a gas can**
** advisable to have a 'catch can' to keep any gas from dripping/running into bilge.
Notes-
- the brass pipe will keep the hose at the tank's bottom and allow for the accumulated sludge to be removed.
- preparing the energy circuit will prevent sparking
16. When finished
- turn toggle switch off
- disconnect alligator clips
- ensure there's no residual gasket material around sender unit
hole
- place sender unit through gasket and then slide into tank
- align the marks made in #8 above (on sender edge and tank)
and insert screws.
- tighten screws
- Ensure all gas cans are closed before closing up things.
To clear the water and contaminated fuel I made up a rig:
- several feet of reinforced vinyl hose
- a 12v fiel pump from NAPA
- a 4" piece of brass pipe
- 4' of copper tubing
- 2 long lengths of copper wire (red + / black - )
- toggle switch
- 2 larger alligator clips
- new gas tank sending unit hole gasket
- 5 gallon water jug
- a number of 5 gallon gas cans
Process -
*** MAKE SURE BATTERY POWER SQITCHES ARE >> OFF <<
1. I slipped the brass pipe over the end of vinyl hose holding in place using copper wire twisted around end of the hose, up and around the pipe and finally around the hose, twisted tight above the pipe.
2. Tie weap / copper tie the copper tube to the vinyl hose about 18" from the hose/brass pipe end. This will provide flexibility to move the weighted end of the hose around the bottom of the tank
3. Connect one end of each wire to its associated alligator clip.
4. The wires should be sufficiently long to run from the battery to the gas tank area, with some slack
5. Cut the black wire about 4' from the free end.
6. Strip & Connect the newly cut black wire ends to the toggle switch, leaving the switch in the off
7. Connect the red & black wire(from the switch) to the fuel pump
*** tape over connections to prevent shorting to hull..
8. Using a black sharpie mark the tank's sending unit so the mark shows the alignment needed when your done.
9. Disconnect the sending wire and ground wire from the sending unit
10. Remove the screws in the sending unit and carefully remove the sending unit. Lay it aside well away from the tank.
NOTE - make a note of sender's orientation as it comes out of hole. There are baffles inside tank and these could interfere with sender's arm if it's insured incorrectly.
11. Place the open end of the hose into the 5 gallon water jug.
- This is your
12. You can now lower the hose/tube down into the tank.
13. Connect the alligator clips to the appropriate battery terminals
14. Turn on the toggle switch.
15. You can safely** maneuver the hose by moving the copper tube back and forth to syphon the gas out of the tank and into the 5 gallon water jug. The water jugs clear construction will allow you to visually check the level. Turn off toggle switch, remove hose from jug and transfer to a gas can**
** advisable to have a 'catch can' to keep any gas from dripping/running into bilge.
Notes-
- the brass pipe will keep the hose at the tank's bottom and allow for the accumulated sludge to be removed.
- preparing the energy circuit will prevent sparking
16. When finished
- turn toggle switch off
- disconnect alligator clips
- ensure there's no residual gasket material around sender unit
hole
- place sender unit through gasket and then slide into tank
- align the marks made in #8 above (on sender edge and tank)
and insert screws.
- tighten screws
- Ensure all gas cans are closed before closing up things.
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
"Sunset Seeker"
'88 32' Sedan Bridge to be sold (updtd 1-1-22)
"Sunset Seeker Too" (SS2)
'88 41' Marquis hardtop. (as of 1/1/22)
Located in Aurora, In.
Always fresh water.
"Sunset Seeker"
'88 32' Sedan Bridge to be sold (updtd 1-1-22)
"Sunset Seeker Too" (SS2)
'88 41' Marquis hardtop. (as of 1/1/22)
Located in Aurora, In.
Always fresh water.