Marinette Boat Forum

Welcome aboard

I have had good experiances with INTERLUX "Brightside" paint system. You can go on their web and find out about the products.
It is extremly important to follow their recommendations to the letter.
If done correctly your finish will look like it has been sprayed on.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/colors/default.aspx#

Good Luck
bill

I used Brightside on my 32'. I also used e2000 on the walk around deck as a primer. I could not thin the e2000 much cause the thinner will melt the old paint. The deck had a bunch of "spiderweb" cracks which I need to fill. The interlux agent suggested the e2000 to bind the old and new finish even though it is a two part bottom paint. I did not use a sprayer. We rolled and tipped the brightside. I did not want to sand all the old finish off. Wherever I sanded thru to bare metal I immediately sprayed with a can of etching primer. That has worked very well. None of the Brightside has lifted off. I also used interlux non skid and flattener on the walked on areas. The advantage to rolling and tipping is you don't have to cover much, just use wide painter tape.

I used Brightside for my Ohio boat and Jamestown Distributor's Total Boat paint for my Miami .

I really like the Jamestown paint, felt it went on better (even in the TERRIBLE conditions I had to work in)

The interlux non skid stuff was on my boat and was a huge mess with cracking and flaking. I'd do a straight paint job, then do a Tuffcoat rubberized surface right over it. If your paint is fresh, you won't need the expensive epoxy primer OR the aluminum primer since you are going on top of your new paint, not the metal.

The rubber stuff is cool because it bonds to itself, meaning, you can put fresh coats on every other year until the next paint job

Anyone have any experience with rustoleum marine paint? We used to use regular rustoleum on the houseboat my family had when I was growing up and it seemed to look pretty good and lay on nice.

We have an aluninum cockpit deck and painted it with Rustoleum marinie paint two years ago. We used the same paint (sans the sand) for the areas under the windshield. It went on easily and has held up well. We followed the directions but it feels like we used too much sand on the deck. Both areas are covered so I don't know if it would be different out on the deck--although we don't cover the windshield.

Hope that helps.

Joe

I used Rustoleum Topside paint with good results.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YxmM7ekME4

I used a foam cabinet roller for this bow paint job and did not tip. It has held up well.

I put hardener in the paint as well so you have to make sure you only mix up what you can use at one time, but it makes a nice shinny finish.

That looks great!

How did it hold up? What type of hardener did you put in it? I thought it was a standard Poly..

Thanks for the feedback on the Rustoleum. I figured for the price and my past experience it would be worth a shot. You guys confirmed that for me. Thanks again!

We used Interlux Toplac and the "roll and tip" method with good results. Unfortunately it is no longer available. If you are planning on painting over old finish and not going to bare metal, you must use a 1 part paint. Interlux Brightside is also a paint you should consider. Another paint company that has been mentioned favorably over the years on this forum is Schilling Enamels:
Schilling Enamels Co  
Address: 12632 Triskett Rd, Cleveland, OH 44111
Phone:(216) 252-6242
I have not used them but looked at their price list several years ago and they were much cheaper than Interlux.

Regardless of what paint you choose, 90% of the work is in the preparation of the surface. I dealt with my spider-cracks by using Primer, and then sanded them out and then wet sanded with increasingly fine paper before painting with finish coat.

Thanks,
Craig