Rudder Cable Isolation

[jdpgsp]

I have read numerous articles concerning the rudder shaft isolation using non-metallic bushings. However, what about isolation of the connected steering linkages that electrically connect the rudders to the hull steering components. My attention here is similar to the prop shaft isolation. All of this to minimize galvanic corrosion. Does anyone know how Marinette originally isolated those linkages?
Jim

[GB49]

Mine are not isolated. I've tested with meter and have continuity to hull. I've tried to wrap the shaft with electrical tape where the large Alan screw tightens the clamp but still there is a closed circuit. I suspect the cable runs to bridge and touches hull via the steering wheel hub. It is mounted directly to the Aluminum bridge panel.
I have cable steering, 1986, 32 sedan. Maybe with hydraulic steering or lower helm only, this would not be a problem?

I just keep the shafts and rudders "anoded".

-Karl

An after thought.... I think I disconnected my rudder cables and found NO continuity from shafts to hull. This is why I figured the bridge wheel hub was the culprit.

[jtalberts]

This is something I am curious of myself. I see the steering cables that are connected to the rudders also have a bracket in the engine compartment that they connect to with a rubber gasket beneath them. As far as where the isolation is supposed to take place other than the rudder bearings, I have read some posters speaking of it but I am not sure where it takes place.

[jtalberts]

Anyone ever look into this anymore? I am going to tracking down all my hull contact points and work to isolate them.

[Busia]

On mine there are plastic washers and a sleeve on the bolt where the cable is attached to the bell crank to the rudder steering systems. Also found that my cable steering was built by a company in Detroit. Now out of business. Glen-L sailboat company had a few parts but were expensive and I needed to fix it now as I had company coming. Found the best thing for me was to replace the whole thing with Tele-flex steering and make an adapter for the end. The end of the cable is set up to work for outboards but I needed a 3/8 NF stud to fit a fork that went to the bell crank. Whole new system was about $200 and made the adapter and was up and running. Now I can get parts and it works so smoothly, first time I drove the boat I didn't think it was hooked up, the wheel turned so easily.----Ed