Marinette Boat Forum

Calivanos wrote:Yes sir it was sandblasted. In that case it should be connected to the galvanic isolator right?

No... if it was actually a Capac and got sandblasted, it was ruined beyond further use. And is not to be connected to the isolator (don't know where you came up with that idea).

Should just be connected to the gauge. It should have been protected with a cap or some tape while sandblasting. Lots of the older boats capac meters don't work.

Here is a test kit which is worth its weight in gold.

We do not hesitate to spend upwards of $200 dollars for a gallon of antifouling paint to keep slime down.

I have one and use it not only to verify my old CAPAC settings ... but use it to assist others. Well worth the investment and when connected to a good digital Multi-meter is much more accurate than our tiredd CAPAC meters and scratched and damaged Cathodes.

Another huge advantage is since you do not keep reference cathode in the water all the time it is easy to keep it clean. This means you are going to show more accurate readings since the cathode is not covered with crud.

Remember your readings will be lower in fresh water than salt. (lower is actually high voltage remember we are measuring Negative Mili-volts (MV)

Great company to do business with. I have used their products for years.

http://www.boatzincs.com/corrosion-refe ... specs.html


safe boating,
dave

Hey that's great I bought one as well when I purchased the zincs. I got the vendor from this site. I have high hopes.