Marinette Boat Forum

bill wrote: ↑Tue Nov 16, 2021 9:36 am
Steve,

Lakeland Auto and Marine in Port Clinton Ohio just posted a Facebook video about this subject.
His name is Chris Hamm I believe. Very knowable on Chrysler Marine engines.
bill

Chris at Lakeland will turn the crank knurling down smooth, at that point you can use a standard rear main seal. Excellent option. I'm sure any machine shop can help.

Maybe I'm thinking about this too late and it's a silly question, but here goes: Why not have both engines run the same way and have the tranny run backwards on one side?

That's the way it's now being done. The Velvet Drive trans will run in either direction, but to have the direction reversed in the trans requires a more modern trans. Outdrives can run in either direction as well.

Jeff

Thanks. I thought I read that somewhere. I suppose it's not an issue for those who spend big $$ with duo prop outdrives or IPS. There you spend north of a grand if you damage one. It's much easier to deal with shafts and struts. (Though I did spend quite a bit for a new strut several years ago.)

Agreed. Just making a point on how outdrives can turn in either direction (with the motor normal rotation).

With my new "boat" I don't have to worry about such things. (It's a kayak!)

Jeff

I have to get up to the boat in a week or two, I left my original Chrysler marine parts manual up there, but I think there are LT and RT crankshaft part numbers, for as Leviathon suspects, the oil ports machined into the crank are angled in the opposite direction. When I confirm this I will post. The knurling on the crank is correct, there should be LT and RT knurling. The knurling is angled to keep the oil from "pumping" out the seal. Regarding the newer one piece rubber seals, on Chevy engines, the cranks and blocks are completely different than the older rope (packing style) seals. You cannot interchange an old block with a newer crank or vise versa. This also includes the crank's specific flywheel. Now I'm not sure this subject has been addressed on the Mopar automobile side but I can give you some insight on my prefered hot rods, Pontiacs. Pontiacs were, like most of the older engines that relied on rope style rear mains, leaked when they got old and crusty. In the '90's, some ingenius dude figured out that the TWO-piece rubber rear main seal used on the old Cadillac 472/500 cu.in. engine would fit, with slight modification, to the Pontiac block and crank. I made this modification to my GTO years ago and no leaks. And like a boat, it sits all winter and gets used very little in the summer, so far so good. Shortly after this modification swept thru the old Pontiac hobby, another ingenius dude started to manufacture a specific rubber seal for Pontiacs that required no modification ! I do not know if anyone has tackled this issue on Mopars or not, a lengthy internet search may find something. I am not as well schooled on the Mopars as I am on GM's so maybe someone can provide better insight. Do the later model fuel injected "Magnum" 360's used in the Dodge trucks and vans use a rubber rear seal? If this were possible I would be interested should my engines ever need rebuilt/replaced, I HATE oil leaks in the bilge. I have had to use an oil absorbant "diaper" under my starboard engine for years because of a slight leak !! Any one else have any input?