Marinette Boat Forum

For those who have replaced the cockpit deck with new marine plywood - what methods did you use to cut the stock plywood pieces? I would guess make a template from the old deck and use a jigsaw.

Also - I am mostly finding marine plywood that is only 4x8 but the deck of the boat is about 10 feet long. Any suggestions on finding 4x10 plywood OR using a combination of 4x8 and two 2x4 pieces to cover the deck?

I just replaced my back deck with plywood. I used a cutoff wheel on a small grinder to cut the fiberglass all around the edges, then used the fiberglass as a pattern. The fiberglass had separated from the old plywood. It took 3 sheets of 4x8 including the hatch. Three coats of epoxy paint and some wood grain vinyl flooring finished the job.

The pics are too large, so I put them on my site "Just Crusin". Go here to see. https://wileykiote.wordpress.com/

Nice Job!

Roger

I ordered plywood with real exterior glue. Only difference was marine plywood has no voids son you can bend it. Decks don't need to be bent. Careful, real exterior glue is hard to find nowadays. So is 5/8" which you need for the deck. Don't mess with 3/4" you will have fitting issues. I had to tear up the old deck to take it out. No way was I going to crawl under the deck to get at all the screws. If you have a small child you don't mind losing hand him a screw driver and send him under. I made patterns out of 1/4" luan. I only needed one side because I could flip them over for the other side. I thought I would use the patterns as a template to rout out the 5/8" decking but the bit was $35 so I penciled the pattern on the stock and used my jigsaw. I had purchased the correct covering and glue but reviewing the steps to put in on made me tired. I just took the pieces to a bedliner dealer and had them coated with rubber. I don't ever have to replace that deck again.

Yooper - did you use screws from the bottom to fasten the new deck in place or some other method?

I'm a fan of the bedliner idea but I'm also considering painting it with Tuff Coat Marine Non Skid http://www.tuffcoat.net/wordpress/

I found a very neat idea when I pulled my starboard deck. It was glued down with pieces of 3M double sided tape. Not solid, but enough to hold it down. maybe a 2 or 3 inch piece every 2.5 to 3 feet. I thought this was way better than the port side which has screws I am going to have to get out !!

I used the same screws and washers where I could easily reach the work. I used a unique system for the hard to reach corners where the scuppers are. The scuppers are like old fashioned shower drains, They are attached from the bottom by a big washer followed by a big nut that clamps the drain down from the underside of the deck. The big washer was steel and totally rusted out. I cut a bigger triangle shaped washers out of 1/8" aluminum diamond plate. The edges of these "washers" fit under the corners of the cockpit sides Thus when tightened, they clamp down the deck as well as the scupper drain. Since the front of the cockpit deck is clamped by the sliding door track that just left the sides. I was prepared to run a couple of screws near each sidewall directly from the top of the deck into the aluminum. Since the deck didn't move or squeak I just left it alone. I could have used some construction adhesive here and there but I didn't think of it and I didn't need it.

P.S. I did not install the narrow aluminum trim where the sidewalls meet the deck. I used a dense insulation tape with one adhesive side. I want to be able to pick up the deck without serious damage if I need to in the future. I also did not use the stainless trim band around hatch. I fell against the hatch on my other project boat, cut my arm open and ended up in the emergency ward. I throw a rubber backed rug over the hatch.

Maestro,
This is what I am thinking about using for our aft deck.
The local lumberyard (NOT Lowes or Home Depot) carries the product here in Louisville.
I need to stop in and see how stiff it is.

[url]http://versatex.com/pvc-sheet-material/url]

I called the lumberyard today (Boland Maloney for those in Louisville) and a 4x10x3/4 is close to $200.00.
They did not have 5/8 in stock and they made it sound like the manufacturer did not produce a lot of it for stock.
Will the +1/8 be an issue?
This stuff can be routed or dado-ed if need be.

The reason 5/8" plywood with real exterior glue is hard to find is it is no longer the standard for roofing. They use oriented strand board now. They are even trying to get away with 1/2" inch stock. $200 bucks for that 10 ft piece seems way high, must be marine. 5/8" will fit under the patio door base which clamps down the front part of the deck on a sedan. If you want to refit the aluminum trim around the perimeter 5/8" is easier. Also the hatch will hurt less when it slams down on your head.