Marinette Boat Forum

I know I am in a much different boat than the rest of you but I was curious what kind of price I would be looking at for a full repaint of a large aluminum boat. This would be a spray job and not rolled and tipped.

show quality 30 grand or more

Had a quote on a 32 fb four years ago $16350.00. Reputable shop,not the first one they have done
Sand blast loose - 2 coat primer - 2 coat finish -all sprayed.
Roll and tip was @ 3000 less.

In 1999, I did waterline up for $11k using awlgrip. Painter screwed up by sanding some patches to bare metal in the fall and then waiting until spring to prime. I didn't know better at the time. Paint eventually peeled right up in every one of those patches. Luckily, they were small areas around cleats and fwd anchor bitt plus some others. Arrogant, know it all painter. Awlgrip in other places weathered very well. It's all in the prep!

Here is what I did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YxmM7ekME4

I used Rustoleum topside paint and their etching primer for aluminium.
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-206999 ... side+paint

https://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-ca ... imer-spray

I used a foam 6 inch "cabinet roller" from Lowe's (I tried to tip with a brush at first, but did not need it)
http://www.lowes.com/pd_235020-11591-94 ... facetInfo=


And I also added this hardener per the directions. This added more shine to the job.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/m ... _vc=-10005

It seems to be holding up good and keeps its shine. I do have a few real small spots to touch up, but I am sure that was my application ans not the paint.

I will be doing the rest of the boat next year, and will probably use this same approach. Only drawback is the primer is only in spray cans. But I plan to only reprimer where I hit bare metal.

I will use Interlux or the like referenced here for below the waterline since the Rustoleum says "above the waterline"

Prices for "Professional" application will wildly vary. As we all know it is ALL in the prep. You can figure a marina yard will need to tie up inside space to do a proper Algrip application. ALL hardware needs to be removed and properly prepared and etched and barrier coat, fairing etc etc.
All this takes a lot of time. Yard labor can easily exceed 100 bucks an hr.

INHO a neat rolled and tipped finish is more reasonable approach. Our local marina wanted 30K for a Imron complete redo which was ridiculous.
Another yard quoted 12K for a rolled and tipped but I saw one of their jobs and it was poor... stanchions were not removed etc. Just masked and then painted. That approach is ok just putting a fresh coat of lipstick. Remember while a paint job will make it easier to sell... it will add little if anything to the value of our Big M's.

safe boating,
dave

I had to paint my boat twice. I really screwed up the spray job I applied with my $800 turbine HVLP system. I did leave it out in the weather over the winter and it bubbled up. The second job was rolled and tipped on the sides and just rolled on the flat parts. The sides were shiny. I was supposed to sand and compound them but they were good enough with a few drips. The flat parts received a lot of non-skid additive and some flatener because I did not want sun blasting off the deck into my eyes. I used a thick coat of E2000 over the cracked and chipped walk around deck. It work but I couldn't use thinner because it ate right into the old paint. I used a spray can of etching primer to cover shiny metal immediately after sanding through the old paint.