Marinette Boat Forum

Interlux 2000 E is primer there for you do not have to prime bare aluminum with self etching primer first

I'm sorry but am I the only one that does not understand this post?

Nope - I am with you, no clue. Complete sentences please.

Interlux 2000 E is primer. Therefore you do not primer bare aluminum with self etching primer first?

From their P sheet it looks like you have to prep the aluminum per their instructions and use thinned coats of the I 2000 epoxy primer right on the bare aluminum. Does not say you need to use etching primer first.

This is such an important topic it is important that accurate information is provided. Not following the correct protocol will result in a failed bottom job and could lead to serious damage to your hull and underwater fittings!

Interlux has complete application guides to assist you and a toll free line for assistance on purchasing the CORRECT products.

Attention to detail and proper surface preparation in imperative!
I also advise when doing a recoat that any bare spots must also be properly prepped . (cleaning, etching, primer, then bottom paint.) There was mention in an earlier post that one can use the 2000E directly on bare clean aluminum. This is true ONLY if applied within one hour after sandblasting the area or sanding. (Obviously this would be very difficult on an entire hull!)

Here are a couple of Links which will help guide you.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... inum+Hulls

http://www.yachtpaint.com/LiteratureCen ... BR_ENG.pdf

Note: I did find a combination etch and spray primer for aluminum which I have used above waterline to coat bare spots on deck with so far has been fine.

Safe boating,

dave

After talking to Interlux about using there self etching primer that they don't make anymore Stopped making it almost 10 years ago I was told if you sandblast the hull and can not get the 2000E applied with in the time give you can sand the hull to remove any oxidization. I did use a self etching primer as I sandblasted in sections. what I am afraid of is the 2000E compatible with any self etching primer that is not from Interlux. ( I have tried mixing manufacturers paints before and had problems like crackling, peeling) If I understand you right barkleydave you can use the self etching primer ? after having don'e the sandblasting? Dose the 1hr time line still apply? I have read where people have used both ways with the self etching prime and with out it and just used the 2000E. I feel like I need to sand the hull to remove the self etching primer I have all ready applied. From what Interlux told me the 2000E needs to be reduced 15% to 20% for the first coat so it will self etch in to the hull its self.

With that said what is the best way to paint the bottom hull if you can't sandblast the hole thing and get it painted in the time line given?

The EPA has forced many products off the market. I would suggest you follow Interlux's directions since I assume they have tested and modified their product to use without etching. Aluminum oxidation is happens very quickly. I have found some of the Vinyl Lux but it is hard to find now.

The information I posted was the latest available on the Internet.

safe boating,
dave

Thanks Dave for your input.I have found the Vinyl Lux too. It was new old stock. Its been sitting on a shelf for over 10 years now. Like anyone else I want to know I have done the best I can the first time around. Someone must have repainted there hull in the last 10 years with 2000E did they use the new old stock Vinyl Lux?


http://www.yachtpaintforum.com/product- ... ic515.html

I painted the bottom of our boat back in the spring of 2012. At that time, I had the surface sand blasted. Immediately after the sand blasting and air blasting was completed, I applied a coat of Interlux 2000E 2 part epoxy primer.
Now, the time frame... The guy sand blasting had to have taken the better part of an hour to complete the job. Given the time for him to clean up and leave, make it an hour and 1/2 to hour and 45 mins. That meant that the first part of the sand blasted area was exposed at least 2 hours before I was able to apply any primer. As I was rolling it on by myself, figure the last part of the exposed aluminum wasn't painted for 2 to 2 1/2 hours after he'd completed the sand blasting.
--> That first layer has never failed out. No peeling or any kind of issue with it. Now, as I remember it, it was a bright spring day and the humidity was very likely quite low. That should have impeded the set up of any oxidation on the exposed aluminum. Additionally, the surface was fairly rough after the blasting which also could have provided good adherence of the 1st coat. I didn't let "any grass grow under my feet" at the time. but mixing, rolling and getting that 1st coat on did take some time.
After the 1st coat was applied, as Fast Jeff said at the time in one of his post's on the old site, you can sit back and breathe! I then applied PC-11 (a 2 part epoxy filler specifically made for constant water immersion) to fill in the pitting that the blasting confirmed. After a couple of coats of PC-11 that was allowed to set up for a day, I sanded those spots/areas smooth and applied alternating grey and white Interlux 2000E for a total of 4 coats (I don't get the nickname "Overkill Bill" for nuthin'! ). The last coat of 2000e was then followed within the time prescribed by a coat of Interlux's Trilux 33 (white) and finally a coat of black.
That has held up fairly well. I did repaint last spring with 2 coats of Trilux 33 after roughing up / removing loose paint with a sanding pad and medium grit sand paper.
The "cons" of this... Last year's paint job hasn't held up as well as I'd have liked. I used a 1st coat of white and a 2nd coat of black. The black seems to have failed in a number of areas, showing the white 1st coat. The white coat's holding up fine (none of the 2012's black final coat is showing thru). I'm considering another brand of paint as Interlux's cost is very high.

Bill

Thanks! I appreciate you sharing your experience with the 2000E product.