We were taking the hardware off during the first phase of the "Top side paint job" and discovered the plastic window tracks needed to be replaced. Aluminum window track is the choice material here and six lenghts of 6' track would do the job. John Althouse at Marinette.com sent the track and the poly glide to me promptly. Got the #6, 1/2" SS flathead screws and Dow Corning® Contractor's Weatherproofing Sealant from Grainger online. Total cost - $400. (The CWS was also used as a glazing on the fixed windows)

Labeled and removed the screens and glass. Removed all the plastic track and saved. Noted where each piece was removed from. Scraped, wire brushed, sanded, and vacuumed the window frames to clean. Used 3M 4200 to seal all the old holes.

Started with the port fore bottom piece. Measured the old piece and compared it to the actual measured inside length from weld bead to center post. Decided to go with actual measurements instead of using the old stuff for pattern. Threw all the old track in the trash.

Cut a 45* miter on the fore and straight cut the aft using my trusty Dewalt compound miter saw with a carbide tipped blade. Had to make custom cuts on each piece to accommodate the weld bead. In some cases the weld bead was ground down to provide a better fit, and to allow clearance for debris and drainage.


After experimenting with different size drill bits, a 3mm gave a tight but easy to sink fit with the #6 screws.

While holding the channel in the right location, one hole was made near the aft end (noting not to drill where the old hole was) through the track and window sill with the 3mm. A screw was then twisted through both the track and sill followed by 3 more evenly spaced.

The center post piece was straight cut so it sat atop the bottom track and butted up flush to the top. 2 screws.

The top piece was straight cut aft and 45* cut fore as to butt up to the angled window channel. 4 screws.

The final angled piece was cut 45* on both ends. 2 screws.

Satisfied with the fit, all pieces were removed and taken to the bench to be counter sunk with a 15/64" bit. Note: use care here as to not drill too deep (ah-hem) and ruin a hole and then have to reposition, re-drill, re-screw, and remove again.

Repeated above for the starboard fore tracks.

The aft window tracks were similar except for the aft posts that screw into plywood.


The original sliding window track design required you to remove the bottom track to get the windows out. This is a royal pain. The solution is to reduce the height of the bottom track channel walls to allow clearance for the glass to be removed. John Althouse told me he had knowledge of it being done with plastic track but not with aluminum. I decided to blaze a trail for us Big M owners and tackle the problem.

A table saw was used to modify the track's first three channel walls. After setting the fence for a 3/16" channel height and the blade height to only cut the first three walls, a few practice cuts were made and adjustments completed. Now for the big show.

The Admiral suggested moving the saw out on the grass because of the big mess that was made on the driveway during the practice cuts. I agreed and she supervised the setup.

Donning ear plugs, sweat band, leather gloves, and full face shield, we carried the four bottom tracks out to the job site. Making sure the facing of the track was down, I slowly fed the blade. Aluminum flakes hammered my left hand and pummeled the face shield as I focused on keeping the channel firmly against the fence. Sweaty arms were like Velcro to the flakes and had to be brushed off between cuts. The job was finished in 45 minutes.

The Dremmel tool with a deburring bit was used to smooth and clean up each wall. A file applied the finishing touches and all were thoroughly cleaned. Finally, the poly glide was laid into the bottom two narrow channels.


All tracks were set into the window openings on a bead of Dow Corning® Contractor's Weatherproofing Sealant and each screw coated with 3M 4200. Sealant squeeze out was promptly cleaned off. Any gaps at the joints were taped to mask, filled in with CWS, and mask removed.

The Admiral did a nice job on cleaning the sliders so I helped her put them in. We had to flip a couple around to get them to slide nice. The plastic stops that keep the forward glass from sliding aft were replaced with a piece of foam tape that was used to seal the gutters and the fixed windows during the "Top side paint job".

SUMMARY:

Now it is piece of cake to clean the windows and those hard to reach places.
This is truly the way to go and it was totally worth the extra labor.
Thanks for taking the time to read my post.

Picture with text boxes here
More pictures.

Randy,

Are U asking about the plastic track it self or are U inquiring about the plastic glide stripes that go in the guides. If it’s about the track it self for your own good go with the aluminum ones much better &
If U are talking about the plastic glide strip on a 32 sedan it took 2 rolls for the windows I believe 7/16" & 1 roll for the screen 9/16" . Again do yourself a favor you’ll love yourself for it =dif U are talking about the track it self.

Norm,

Big live on

Hamilton Marine has stainless double window track that comes with plastic slider and little brushes to contact the glass. The URL is http://store.hamiltonmar...m/browse.cfm/4,8735.htm . Has anyone tried this stuff? It is about the same price as the aluminum stuff, but comes in 8' lengths. I haven't measured.

How do you mount the sliding screens? Is there a separate track for them? The original plastic track has a third slot that fits the screen frames. I am thinking of having screens made of fabric to snap outside the windows, there is little reason to have them moveable as far as I can see.

The current plastic track is just disintegrating after 30+ years and must be replaced.

Joel,

I was thinking of using phifertex ( http://www.sailrite.com/...sc=2&category=32488 ) to make covers over the windows, one for each side of the salon and one for each side of the cabin. The "shade factor" is 70%, which would be nice in Florida. The heat would stay outside, instead of being intercepted by curtains inside. In daytime the privacy should be pretty good, curtains would be needed at night. I would have to mount ss snaps around the windows, no big deal, lots of boats have window covers snapped on but I have never seen screens done this way. This seems like such a good idea I would expect to see a lot of them. Am I missing something here?

Doug

Since I'm a visual learner does anyone have a pic of their window track mainly the 45 degree corners? Dennis your pics are a great help but no pics of the corner.

It appears spring is around the corner for us here in s/e Michigan. /:d/

Thanks Norm, I know when I'm at the boat laying the pieces in it all will come together like doing base molding. With the perpendicular piece in place only the bottom track being mitered. Will it be enough to move water and debris out?

More pictures soon.....

Thanks for posting the pictures. This is a project I need to do, just not sure when. The plastic window channels on my boat are 'self destructing'.

John B

Doug,

I noticed that the track they are selling is only a 2 slotted type didn’t really ply the site to see if
they had the 3 slot type. But up here in MI. where are State Bird is the Mosquito in the evening
we sure need a screen PLUS. I imagine down in FL. they are needed also. The other thing I
noticed & liked about their design is the radius for the glass to ride on but unless one was
replacing the glass or lexon & had it cut to the proper size to accommodate the radii’s the
original panes may not fit. BTW thanks, for that site U posted on lighting I may be ordering one
of those low wattage lights from the site, for over the galley table as a test I’m not so much
worried about the voltage I use up for I seldom go on the hook over night (can’t haul enough
brewski’s on a 32' would need a vessel the size of Sorry Dogs) My main concern is getting out
some candle power those 1054 bulbs do the job. AnyWho Lets All think SPRING I’m all ready
to be placed on the trailer hauled & be launched finished up this weekend


Norm,

BIG s Live On

Where did you get the black plastic tracks? I believe that Hamilton Marine only has white ones. My experience has been that black plastic lasts better in the sun than other colors.

My boat has 1/4" plastic windows, which are likely not original, and I think that plastic tracks would work fine....