i'm doing mine with starboard.i wish i had used aluminum.its going to be slick and silicone will not stick to it very good.there is a nice aluminum job posted on this forum with nice hatches and drains.

tim

It is very nice to be able to get the WHOLE sole up without tools, something that is fairly easy to engineer if you are replacing it. The prior owner of my boat put the cockpit sole in permanently, and if I ever see him again I am going to lsldin slowur slwmfl sliwls.

Mine is also welded. The sliding door track is also welded in.

My little pea sized brain seems to remember that pressure treated lumber and aluminum may be a big no no.

I'm tossing around the idea of replacing my cockpit floor as well. It's actually not bad structurally. Still very strong, but the moroon that owned the boat before me, put carpet down with GLUE over the nautolex and....cut the carpet to size on the nautolex!!!! Needless to say.. looks like crap. I've read a lot of ideas on here and been researching alternatives. I thought about the aluminum, as I work as a sheetmetal worker and have access to a metal working shop. I realize that the aluminum would need to be relatively thick and need to be painted. Could anyone tell me approx. cost of doing this. I have a 39' sedan with approx. 80 sq.ft. of cockpit. I know the aluminum isnt cheap as I ordered some to replace the side cockpit panels. My uncle replaced the floor on his 32' sedan with composite decking 5/4 board, but went through a lot of work nothching the board because of the additional height. I wasn't real impressed with the finished product. Thought about composite trim boards...they arent as thick...3/4in. which is close to the 5/8 plywood down now. I realize it would need more support framing, and am concerened about expansion. Would love to do plasteek but.....$45.00 a square foot!!!! Settled on two ideas. (1) PVC outdoor trim boards. Comes in various widths and does not rot. Again, comes in 3/4in. but would need considerable support bracing. Then came upon this. (2) FSI Home Products Lock Dry aluminum decking. www.lockdry.com. They sent me some literature. Pricing is $3.99 per linear foot. Minimum 12'-30'. Would get 16' lengths as I need maximum 8',s. Two per board. For my cockpit around $650.00 in material. It is interlocking, screwed from above, and water tight. Definitely needs no extra support, and is 1" tall. I guess I would have to shorten the ladder and put a trim piece in to transfer to the lower floor of the cabin. Hopefully the extra 3/8 height wouldnt be a tripping hazard. Also comes powder coated in 4 colors. Wonder if anyones seen this.

I have 3/16" aluminum on top of the framing with no paint. Very stout. I was going to put anti-skid on it, but don't need it. I think you could get by with 1/8" on the framing just fine. Just use lots of screws to hold it down and that will make it rigid.--Ed

We did ours with 1/4" aluminum supported by aluminum I beams. Turned out perfect. Used heavy duty P&J hatches. Used starboard for the interior but it is hard to find caulks that will stick..Boatlike life makes a product (maybe lifeseal or their silicone blend, cant remember which). Would not have done this any other way.
Bob

Doug, I'm with you. It seems the easiest & most economical way to go. Everyone is talking about improving but think about it the newest of these boats is 20 years. Unless it was neglected 20 +yrs for a wood deck is pretty dare good!

O.K. I know it's been a little while since I wrote about the lock dry system. I have really researched and wrestled with what to use. I think I finally settled on timbertechs composite decking. They make a teak looking deck with a concealed screw system. I'm going to use the old plywood floor as a template. I also thought of using some foam/rubber round rodding to seal the seams. The boards already come grooved for the clips that hold the boards down. I was a little concerned with expansion with water, but I have canvas that covers the cockpit, so I don't think it will see too much water??? I'm hoping it will look sharp.

Didn't use their clip system. I cut & placed a plank, drilled through the board and support, Over drilled the plank and countersunk the hole. Then I decided to tap the support and used countersunk 32 tpi screws. Its workng out well so far. I did use pipe clamps and REALLY drew the planks in close before drilling and tapping.