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How to keep your electronics buss high
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DiverDennis
#1 Posted : Thursday, September 24, 2009 11:42:28 AM(UTC)
DiverDennis

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Hello All,

We were having trouble with the Raymarine electronics when starting the engine. The abrupt DC system voltage drop that accompanies engine starting was rebooting the E120 multifunction display, sounder, and autopilot. The original Marinette wiring did not have separate cranking and house circuits. Just two batteries and a OFF-1-ALL-2 switch that fed the engine and accessories. Fixed the problem by installing a simple relay and a battery. I decided to call it..."Smart Start" (SS).

A sealed rechargeable battery provides supplemental voltage to the electronics buss via a relay contact when the engine is cranked. When the ignition switch is released, the relay drops out and and the SS battery is recharged by the alternator. When on shore power the 13.8v float charger keeps the SS battery topped off. Got the battery, relay, and charger on eBay for $50. Installed it in the head under the counter top.
Works like a charm. Can't even see a blip on the E120 display when starting engine.


Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single Chrysler M360 ('87), Raymarine E120 MFD, HD digital sonar, GPS, 4KW radome, Sirius satellite weather,
X-10 autopilot with ST70 controller, Yahama 15HP 4 stroke electric start and tilt with hyd steering & remote throttle control,
Floscan 9000, ACR Sat2 406 EPIRB, 24 volt stern thruster, Interlux Brightside paint ('06-'08) Trilux 33 on bottom,
Big Jon electric downriggers, Fish Hawk X4, Traxtech swivel mounts, Bert's track and ratchet holders.
Click here for all the equipment details and here for the complete photo album.
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dougrose
#2 Posted : Thursday, September 24, 2009 1:16:08 PM(UTC)
dougrose

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You can buy a box that does the same thing. It is pretty expensive and I doubt that it works any better. Nice project, I am tucking your diagram away for a rainy day.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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old32
#4 Posted : Thursday, September 24, 2009 1:42:07 PM(UTC)
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i did almost the same thing for my radio.except with a old gel cel and a diode .the diode keeps the starting current off the radio batt.


tim .
72 32' express
"http://www.theboaters.com/boats/Powerboat_Express_Cruiser_marinette_1972_anticipation"
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DiverDennis
#3 Posted : Thursday, September 24, 2009 3:20:47 PM(UTC)
DiverDennis

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dougrose wrote:
You can buy a box that does the same thing. It is pretty expensive and I doubt that it works any better. Nice project, I am tucking your diagram away for a rainy day.
Thanks Doug. I bought a Newmar StartGuard and installed it. Didn't like the .3 volts were being lost across the diode. Sold it on eBay. DD
Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single Chrysler M360 ('87), Raymarine E120 MFD, HD digital sonar, GPS, 4KW radome, Sirius satellite weather,
X-10 autopilot with ST70 controller, Yahama 15HP 4 stroke electric start and tilt with hyd steering & remote throttle control,
Floscan 9000, ACR Sat2 406 EPIRB, 24 volt stern thruster, Interlux Brightside paint ('06-'08) Trilux 33 on bottom,
Big Jon electric downriggers, Fish Hawk X4, Traxtech swivel mounts, Bert's track and ratchet holders.
Click here for all the equipment details and here for the complete photo album.
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dougrose
#5 Posted : Friday, September 25, 2009 12:32:02 AM(UTC)
dougrose

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I think that the separate batteries are the way to go. I have a dedicated starting battery for each engine (Optimas because the diesels need high current). Then I have a pair of batteries for the house, usually paralleled together. If I had it to do over, I would get one house battery twice the size.

The start batteries run only the engine circuits (just the gauges on a diesel), and are trickle charged by a solar cell. The house batteries run everything else. There is of course no voltage drop when the engines start, and I could run the house batteries flat and still start up. There is no connection anywhere between engine and house circuits, except for the common ground.

All things considered, at around $150 the StartGuard is about the same price as a dedicated starting battery.

Incidentally, I use switches to swap start batteries from engine to engine, and to select which house battery combination I want. I don't think I would do all that again. If you have the batteries together, you can cut down a set of jumper cables for emergency hookups (not in the engine compartment for you gas guys) and use that for emergencies. I have never used my switches, they could be frozen for all I know.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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ComputerJoe
#6 Posted : Friday, September 25, 2009 6:43:59 AM(UTC)
ComputerJoe

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And here I thought this post was about some stuff from the 60's....
Farm-Ass-Out Man!
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