You are way tooo picky! Looks great!

Roger

Sa-weeet! A lot of work, but well worth it.

Jeff

Norm,

Looks like the panels may be different from year to year or, maybe even different with each size boat. The layout on Dougs appears very different from yours. Good luck.

Max

Max,

Yup it looks a lot better You have a point there mines a 89 32' F/B sedan. When I seen Doug’s
I just assumed that when he converted to diesels he also had to reconfigure the instrument panel
So to clarify the panel issue to anyone on the site with a 32' sedan or F/B sedan twin/ gas could U
confirm if all 32' sedans say from the mid 70s To late 80s have the same configured panel or do they differ from year to year etc. TIA

Norm,

Big s Live On

You could take each gauge and switch off one at a time and reconnect the wires back. Use the old pannel and reconnect the gauges.

Mike

Norm,

I guess it's hard to tell, but it looks to me as though your wood is correct and the panel beneath it is not symmetrical.

At any rate, it is a shame to not get the look you want just because of wiring. So here's the deal: If you want to make a new panel, just do so, mount the gauges in it, and send it to me here in Virginia and I will wire it for you. I will send it back and you can install it. You will need to hook up just one wire per gauge (the "S" connection, usually) and the ignition switch, and all should be well. I will put terminal blocks on the panel, so that all your wiring connections will be in one place. You will need to mark each wire as you remove it from the old gauge, so that you will know what it is for. I would just write it on a piece of masking tape and wrap it on the wire.

If all goes well, you will have a new panel for next season, and I will have a little something to keep me occupied here, while I am 1500 miles from my boat.

D Diver,

Yup that’s the $1,000,000 U still owe me that was a bogus bill should have known better than that not everyone other then Jeff, walks around with that sort of walking money on them Didn’t I tell U
State would win last Saturday

Norm,

Big s Live On

Not quite, Norm.

Each gauge needs ignition, ground, and the signal "S" from its sensor. In addition, the ignition switch needs battery and start. If you have ammeters, they will need "charge" from the alternator.

But most of the wiring is on the panel, the only thing each gauge needs that it can't get close by is the sensor wire.

After a lifetime of doing it, I wire so fast that a little panel like yours is no big deal. You will have to locate and hook up the wires that leave the panel, but they are color coded and it should not be a problem. I will run them all to a terminal block and give you directions.

If it all works out, you can give me a ride next time I am in Michigan. Wait, I've never been there....

Norm,

A connector like you show is alright, but you might consider using a terminal block with screws. It is more reliable and easier to work on - those Molex connectors need special tools, not just a screwdriver. I would go with the connector if it is already on the harness, otherwise I would use terminal blocks, one for each engine.

You will need at least eight connections per engine: Ground, battery, ignition, start, alternator, tach, fuel, and temperature. The voltmeter connects to battery so it doesn't need its own wire. It is nice to have spares, I would use a terminal block with 12, each engine.

I can mount the terminal blocks to the back of the panel, wire to them, and give you the eye terminals needed for the wires that you will hook to them. They are easy to put on, the connectors not so easy.

As you take wires off, mark them with masking tape. It is a zoo trying to figure out which is which. If they are properly marked, then putting them back is no big deal.

I wish I had a picture of the back of my panel to show you, but when I am doing stuff I forget to document it. Next trip to the boat, will do.

Better lock up the brewskis a few days earlier!

Jeff