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pastelblack
#1 Posted : Monday, January 25, 2010 7:55:22 AM(UTC)
pastelblack

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Hello Everyone:
We plan to soda blast the bottom of the hull this spring to see if we have any serious damage thanks to our bilge pump switch that went haywire last year and dumped dc voltage into our bilge....(note: Boca Tech switches are crap).

Has anyone done any soda blasting?

How did it turn out?

Did you do just the hull or topsides as well?

What were the costs?

Anything to watch out for / suggestions, etc.?

Any photos?

Many thanks guys,
Bob
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jralbert
#2 Posted : Monday, January 25, 2010 9:28:59 AM(UTC)
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Has anyone done any soda blasting?
Did it season before last. Actually, they use recycled glass beads.

How did it turn out?
Excellent results

Did you do just the hull or topsides as well?
Just did the bottom to get rid of 20 yrs of accumulation and rough paint. New coats were begnning to not hold

What were the costs?
About $1,200 for the blasting and much more for having the yard apply barrier and anti-fouling coats. They sprayed. I swear the smooth hull added significant speed.

Anything to watch out for / suggestions, etc.?
The blasters were pros. They tented and cleaned up.. it was a full day's job. Make sure you well cover the capac, thruhulls, transducers. I taped an pie plate to the capac to protect it and covered that with a couple of layers of tape. To save labor costs, I got some waterline tape from the yard and applied it myself.

Check thru the hull section of the forum for pix that I posted two yrs ago and gave other details When the blasters are done and the hull has been cleaned, get down the first barrier coat before day's end. As quickly as you can otherwise nothing will adher to the aluminum which skins over rapidly. All the details are in the other post.

While my sides above the water line aren;t perfect, I am not going to touch them. The awlgrip I had applied 10 yrs ago is holding up ok. If, however, your sides are in crappy condition, this might be a good time to check out a re-do. You might save money by having them make only one trip. On the other hand, that will delay the time you can get at doing the first coat as noted above. So, perhaps, it's much better as a two day job.

Blaster was out of Annapolis, widely known along the bay's western shore. Don't know if they would come to Lake Anna. I will track them down if you wish.

Good luck with the project

Any photos?
See the earlier post
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
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Doug Doty
#3 Posted : Tuesday, January 26, 2010 8:52:28 AM(UTC)
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He is actually speaking of blasting with "soda" as in baking soda. I done a car this way three years ago. It is not nearly as aggressive as sand or glass so it takes a while. The guy I got had a pro outlit but still just did a 3/8" stripe per pass and moved real slow. These guys typically want to talk you into glass or sand when they arrive cause it saves them a ton of time and $$ and they have already quoted the job. I see it not being aggressive enough so if you get it done with soda get a firm price and quoted as a complete job and no partial payments for an unfinished job due. I love it cause the cleanup was done by rain that night, " Moved the car inside " and I did not continue to find sand where I did not want it for years to came. It left the whole area covered in white powder, lite and blows around a lot, looked like powdered sugar factory blew up. Very friendly once it is done but I am skepticle of it's ability to cut the old coatings off in a timely manor. I would say have it priced both ways and be prepared to switch shortly after starting the job.
I am interested in Dry Ice blasting and we have a new guy here local doing it so I will speak to him when I get a chance.
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pfhlaw
#4 Posted : Tuesday, January 26, 2010 9:17:35 AM(UTC)
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Bob:
Soda blasting is used primarily for jobs where you want a less agressive medium to protect the underlying surface (think graffiti on brick or concrete).

If you're trying to get down to bright metal to check for pitting, I would skip the soda blasting and go with a more agressive medium like sand or black beauty. Soda takes too long, so the exposed aluminum near the start of the job will oxidize long before the blaster is finnished.

Once you strip and then use vinyl-lux (or other self-etching first coat) and then apply multiple coats of epoxy barrier coat paint, the soda blasting will be effective for stripping coats of A/F paint without stripping the barrier coats. At least, that's what I'm relying on.

As far as cleanup, it's not the blasting medium you have to worry about, it's the tin and other banned substances in the old layers you are removing.
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Docsnow
#5 Posted : Tuesday, January 26, 2010 9:00:40 PM(UTC)
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On the use of blasting media if one goes to www.mcmaster.com type in page 2702 in the find area then scroll down to “About Abrasive Blasting Media” they have a write up on the different media’s & continues on pg 2703 AnyWho that’s my ½ penny’s worth Whistle

Norm,

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