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rudder
dependo
#1 Posted : Monday, February 01, 2010 7:00:56 AM(UTC)
dependo

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Had the BigM pulled for bottom job. I have a 1/4" notch eaten out of one of my rudders on the leading edge . Anodes look great. What's happening? Thanks, Wayne
1973 express FB 32ft
twin 318
"Southern Lady"
Chattanooga
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Docsnow
#2 Posted : Monday, February 01, 2010 11:25:58 AM(UTC)
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Wayne,

Your anodes shouldn’t look great they should be pitted. Post a pic a pic worth a thousand words

Norm,

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 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

Some people try to turn back their odometers.Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
jralbert
#3 Posted : Monday, February 01, 2010 1:18:04 PM(UTC)
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This is just a swag (a scientific wild-axxed guess): Could the erosion on the rudder be due to cavitation bubbles from the prop? Those bubbles explode with enough force to do a little damage. Having put that theory forward, I wouldn't have the least idea how to analyze or correct that
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
NightMoves
#4 Posted : Monday, February 01, 2010 9:45:47 PM(UTC)
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could it be frou hitting something

Mike
dependo
#5 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 12:27:37 AM(UTC)
dependo

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Anodes are lighty pitted & one rudder is suffering from erosion. One rudder is ok. I guess I should check that they are isolated from hull. Wayne
1973 express FB 32ft
twin 318
"Southern Lady"
Chattanooga
Docsnow
#6 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 12:47:23 AM(UTC)
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Wayne,

Good idea on checking for proper isolation of rudder
One other thing U may want to check out is if the anode is making proper contact with the rudder crude may have accumulated between rudder & anode. Suggest removing & cleaning all anodes while the boats out for bottom cleaning. Just my ½ pennies worth Eh?

Norm,

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 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

Some people try to turn back their odometers.Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
dependo
#7 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 12:56:46 AM(UTC)
dependo

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Thanks, Norm. Will do. Wayne
1973 express FB 32ft
twin 318
"Southern Lady"
Chattanooga
fastjeff
#8 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 1:27:23 AM(UTC)
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Unfortunately, that's normal on those "why the hell didn't they make 'em out of stainless" carbon steel rudders.

I riveted some stainless sheet metal over the leading edges on mine and that worked fine. While redoing the rudder bushings, I had the rudders out so I welded a piece of stainless the the leading edges. They're in perfect sahpe after a few years, though the paint refuses to stick.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

Roger2
#9 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 5:59:30 AM(UTC)
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I replaced my carbon steel rudders with stainless steel, even though they still looked like new.

Roger
Roger2 attached the following image(s):
Roger2 attached the following image(s): Stainless Ruders2.jpg
Sea Jay
1983 37 double cabin, twin 230hp Volvo diesels, twin disk 1.5-1 20X 23 4 blade props
Docsnow
#10 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 6:47:14 AM(UTC)
Docsnow

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Roger,

Nice job Applause If U don’t mind what’s a ball park figure on the cost Think Did U do the cutting & welding or have it done been thinking of getting rid of the steel rudders & using the S.S. rudder post that are on mine getting tired of wire brushing & the whole thing of priming & painting annually d'oh!

Norm,
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 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

Some people try to turn back their odometers.Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
Roger2
#11 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 7:40:19 AM(UTC)
Roger2

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I had a source for the stainless, so they only cost me $150. for cutting out the stainless & welding! If you had to buy stainless about another $200 I guess. I had a local estimate of $400. for the complete job.

Roger
Sea Jay
1983 37 double cabin, twin 230hp Volvo diesels, twin disk 1.5-1 20X 23 4 blade props
Doug Doty
#12 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 8:25:20 AM(UTC)
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I did not realize the posts were stainless, I guess it only makes sense though, Are all big M posts stainless ?? do we know if there is more than one configuration on the rudder shapes and posts or all the same also. Sounds like a fun little side line product to make in the shop. I have all the equipment anyway and always looking for a project.
466 Bertram FDMY, " Easy Rider "
1984 39 Marinette sedan, " LIBERTY ONE "
440'S 19x22 wheels, 710 HOURS

jhemp3
#13 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 9:34:47 AM(UTC)
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My rudders show evidence of cavitation erosion. You can seen the path of the expoding bubbles over the rudders.
Jim
Jim Hemphill
Detour
'87 32' FBS, USCG Certification #1057921
Berthed MM 207 Tennessee River, Picwick State Park Marina
Docsnow
#14 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 9:37:58 AM(UTC)
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Doug,

I believe the later models lets say in the 80's came with S.S. post & carbon rudder blades & I’ve read on this site some earlier models came with carbon steel rudder blades & post. I think any S.S. blades & post have been adapted by the owners don’t believe they came that way. Went to John A. site he’s asking $750 @ S.S. post & blade rudders Ouch might head on down to the local scrap yard & see what I can pick up some 1/4" S. S. plate for. I know single screw BigM 26' & 28' have a different shaped rudder & are smaller in size & seemed to be cast ? not sure if the larger BigMs say 37' to 41' are shaped & sized to fit the vessel Think

Norm,

BigBigMs Live On Applause
http://www.picturetrail.com/gid23690601 Try it now there's music to listen to while U view the Big M's

http://www.PictureTrail..../index.php?clubID=20726 this one for the Pix club


 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

Some people try to turn back their odometers.Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
Docsnow
#15 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 9:40:23 AM(UTC)
Docsnow

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Roger,

Thanks for the heads up on the pricing Applause

Norm,

BigBigMs Live On Applause
http://www.picturetrail.com/gid23690601 Try it now there's music to listen to while U view the Big M's

http://www.PictureTrail..../index.php?clubID=20726 this one for the Pix club


 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

Some people try to turn back their odometers.Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
Roger2
#16 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 11:46:41 AM(UTC)
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I have the deminsions & layout on mine if anyone needs them.

Roger
Sea Jay
1983 37 double cabin, twin 230hp Volvo diesels, twin disk 1.5-1 20X 23 4 blade props
Doug Doty
#17 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 11:53:04 AM(UTC)
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What format are your plans, is it something you can e-mail ???

Doug...


ddoty@gmx.com

466 Bertram FDMY, " Easy Rider "
1984 39 Marinette sedan, " LIBERTY ONE "
440'S 19x22 wheels, 710 HOURS

Roger2
#18 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 2:08:29 PM(UTC)
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Doug,
emailed drawing, hope it is helpfull. Give me a call if you have questions.

Roger
File Attachment(s):
Rudder 001.jpg (311kb) downloaded 36 time(s).
Sea Jay
1983 37 double cabin, twin 230hp Volvo diesels, twin disk 1.5-1 20X 23 4 blade props
fastjeff
#19 Posted : Tuesday, February 02, 2010 10:40:20 PM(UTC)
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Only the leading edges need to be stainless. Much easier to weld a strip of stainless to the front of the rudder--in place--than to remove it completely. After at least 3 years I see no reoccurring erosion.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

GB49
#20 Posted : Wednesday, February 03, 2010 12:59:08 AM(UTC)
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On the rudder anodes, you must make sure any after market anodes are for particular water environment. I had replaced the factory anodes with the round anodes from West Marine here on Lake Erie. I had noticed the next year they were not pitting like the factory anodes. I referenced the model number, CMRXX, and found that type was made for salt water not fresh.
Canada Metals is the usual supplier for those round anodes. I had found somewhere on their site a PDF or something explaining which CMRXX designations were for what types of water and now I cant find it. Will keep looking.

Also found the rudders tend to rust behind the anodes. Every spring I pull all anodes and wire wheel the bare metal areas. I do the same for all other anode areas, skeg, trim tabs. The rudders tend to be the worst due to the rusting.

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
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