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pastelblack
#1 Posted : Wednesday, February 24, 2010 3:17:23 AM(UTC)
pastelblack

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Hello All
I would be very interested in what type of bilge pumps and float switches you guys are using in the forward Vee. Especially, any guys with the 26' like I have, and maybe the bigger brother 28's which are similar just bigger. That forward bilge is very tight.
I want to change from the Bocatech Bilge Mates I was using last year (both went bad....only 18 months old each) that I also blame for potentially leaking voltage into my bilge water.

Thanks everyone,
Bob
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Docsnow
#2 Posted : Wednesday, February 24, 2010 5:16:34 AM(UTC)
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Bob,

If U have the 2010 West Marine catalog go to pg.466 they have a real good write on their advisor pg. on what U may need for your specific needs than shop around U R sure to find the bilge pump a lot cheaper I’ve had rather good luck with Rule auto bilge pumps with built in float switches. AnyWho just a suggestion Anxious

Norm,

Big BigMs Live On Applause

As long as there bilge pump works when needed Whistle
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http://www.PictureTrail..../index.php?clubID=20726 this one for the Pix club


 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

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jralbert
#3 Posted : Wednesday, February 24, 2010 6:16:23 AM(UTC)
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Keep in mind that one of the most important components is the hose itself. No cheap, accordion pleated hoses, please. They drastically reduce the output.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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Roger2
#4 Posted : Wednesday, February 24, 2010 6:52:49 AM(UTC)
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I've got one of those accordian hoses on the pump in front of engines. I need a double jointed young person to get to it! Will have to loosen Gen set & slide it back if this "old Man" has to replace it! Hope it hangs together!

Roger
Sea Jay
1983 37 double cabin, twin 230hp Volvo diesels, twin disk 1.5-1 20X 23 4 blade props
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pfhlaw
#5 Posted : Wednesday, February 24, 2010 8:12:05 AM(UTC)
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Norm's right, Rules rule!
I strongly suggest replacing the hose and original plastic thru-hull with a stainless or marelon unit.
When I looked at a 39' aft cabin and lightly touched the forward bilge hose the thru-hull snapped in two.
Marelon is nylon fortified with glass fibers. (sort of like the steel rebar in concrete)
If you go with bronze or stainless you must isolate it from the hull.
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
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Dave Morris
#6 Posted : Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:51:56 AM(UTC)
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When replacing your pumps be sure to use heat shrink over the connection to keep them water tight. I find many connection laying in bilge water that are just regular butt connector. Water can get in & corride & stray current can get out . Especially important in metal hulls such as ours !
1986 32 Flybridge - Express "Steel Head " (formerly fron Lake Erie, East Lake OH)
5.8 Chryslers 275hp each.
Charleston Boat Club Kanawha River Charleston WV
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Docsnow
#7 Posted : Wednesday, February 24, 2010 10:46:21 AM(UTC)
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Another good idea on butt splices is to put a dab of silicone at each end before heat shrink tubing them “Now I can’t take credit for this idea I picked it up from one of Diver Dennis”s thread write ups” which I think is really a good way of truly keeping that connection water tight & abating any stray DC
currents Applause

Norm,

Big BigMs Live On Applause
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 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

Some people try to turn back their odometers.Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
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HuckFinn
#8 Posted : Wednesday, February 24, 2010 10:54:11 AM(UTC)
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I have a 26' too. The V birth had an Attwood V750. I need to get a new one too. One more thing to do before boating season.
I also agree Rule's rule from what I've researched. And listen to Pete, he saved me on some potential thru hull problems I could have had. Here's an older article which compared some top brand bilge pumps...
http://www.powerboat-rep...s.com/sample/bilge.html
Also here's a good one for installation, backs up what
Dave said about heat shrink, and also get's me thinkin I might get 2 pumps...
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/14.htm
PT-73
1973 32' FB Express
Chrysler 318's
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DiverDennis
#9 Posted : Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:16:37 PM(UTC)
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HuckFinn wrote:
...I might get 2 pumps...http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/14.htm
No mention of where the discharge for the big pump goes. Perhaps it would be easier to put the large emergency pump aft where there is better access for installing new thru hull.
Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single M360
Specs: http://www.boatm8.com/my...amp;page=boats&arr=0
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dougrose
#11 Posted : Wednesday, February 24, 2010 11:57:23 PM(UTC)
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I have mounted a terminal block above the bilge pumps and switch, on a piece of starboard, to wire both pump and switch to. That keeps the connections out of the bilge water (assuming the pump is working, of course) and makes it a lot easier to change out pump or switch. The terminal block is all stainless, and I paint it with liquid electric tape to seal the connections.

I have a bilge switch forward and one in the engine compartment between the engines. The engine compartment pump never runs, but it's there.

Some forum members have added a pump all the way aft to de-water the bilge when under weigh. This seems like a good idea to me and I have added it to my list of chores, 'way down at the bottom...

I do NOT like the water left in the boat by my float switch, and I lift it before going out, to run the pump and get rid of the water. In another boat, I have one of those pumps that comes on for a second every few minutes, and shuts off if there is no water, but I don't think that would work on a boat where people (try to) sleep.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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HuckFinn
#10 Posted : Thursday, February 25, 2010 3:10:10 AM(UTC)
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DiverDennis wrote:
No mention of where the discharge for the big pump goes. Perhaps it would be easier to put the large emergency pump aft where there is better access for installing new thru hull.

I agree, one set up had a larger GPH pump above the first pump on a shelf. The idea was to have one that would only turn on in case of emergency or failure of the primary pump. It had a seperate thru hull discharge and said not to tie it in with the primary discharge.
PT-73
1973 32' FB Express
Chrysler 318's
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pastelblack
#12 Posted : Thursday, February 25, 2010 3:20:20 AM(UTC)
pastelblack

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Boy, great advice and recommendations....THANKS. I am pretty well set with smooth walled hose to Marelon thru hull. Also, all connections are way out of bilge. I do like the terminal block addition and may consider that too. My biggest concern was finding a good pump and switch that fits in that narrow vee and how on earth to anchor it.

The current pump (Rule 1500) is connected to the vee with VERY heavy duty wire ties that connect to holes I drilled through adjacent aluminum ribs. It actually snugs the pump nicely in the vee (still sits somewhat hi so no getting around leaving some water in there. I just remove the remaining water with hand pump) but those damned Boca Tech switches really let me down.

I will check out the links and suggestions provided by this great group!!
THANKS
Bob
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Barkleydave
#13 Posted : Thursday, February 25, 2010 7:16:09 AM(UTC)
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Rule pumps are a good choice.

If you want the very best IMHO.. Lovett makes the very best. I have used them for over 35 years. Internal float belt driven pump. They are very reliable high volume and rebuildable. I have had one in use on my old classic Chris Craft for over 15 years. It was also the only bilge pump we used on our larger Lake Michigan patrol boats.

Updating pump hose and thru-hulls are always a good idea. Just a terrible pain to acess on mine. http://www.lovettmarine.com/
Here is their home page:

dave
None
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dougrose
#14 Posted : Thursday, February 25, 2010 11:56:58 PM(UTC)
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One thing that annoys me is the water in the discharge hose that runs back into the bilge when the pump shuts off. I reduce this by running the hose from the pump vertically until it is above the thruhull and then running it at a slant down to the thruhull. That way, only the volume of water in the vertical part runs back, and it is a little less likely that water will come in when under weigh. I forget where I read about this but it seems to work.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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