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Rank: New Poster Groups: Member
Joined: 5/19/2008 Posts: 1 Points: 3 Location: Eagan MN
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I apologize in advance for the vague subject line. As I read the following I realize it may be difficult to follow, please feel free to ask for clarification, no offense will be taken.
I need to know if the bump in the deck just above the rubrail on a 41 Marinette is solid or not. This bump up is to assist in the channeling of water on the deck to the rear of the boat. The problem I am having is that the water does not fully drain from this channel and I have about 6 inches of water about 1/8" deep that accumulates on the boat on a daily basis. It is on the NE side of the boat and the sun does not get there at all to dry it out. The water has accumulated at the extreme rear of the boat and has lifted up Awlgrip paint. Awlgrip rep claims this is an issue because Alwgrip top side paint is not designed to be under water. I need to get this water to drain out fully.
I was planning to cut a small kerf in this bump to allow the water to fully drain out. I need to know if any one knows if this bump is solid or not. If I cut the kerf and bump is not solid then I will need to fix the cut and then go to plan 2.
Plan 2 was to put a small drain hole in the deck and route it to the hull to drain over board. I am not sure of the access to this area from the inside. I have already removed the failed Alwgrip paint and need to repaint this area. I was thinking about a 1/8 inch drain hole.
I would also appreciate any information any may have on this and additionally if anyone has addressed this issue in some other manner.
Thanks in advance
Dan
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 Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star Groups: Administration
, Member
Joined: 12/4/2007 Posts: 1,311 Points: -1,496 Location: White Lake MI. or on my BOAT
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Minn.Dan, I’m not positive but I’d say it would be a solid piece of 1/2 round stock  ahh it just came to me take the smallest drill U own say a 1/16" & drill thru depth of the round where U plan on cutting the kerf but not the deck U’ll soon find out if it’s hollow or not.  If & when U do this chore how about letting the rest of the forum know the out come  so we don't have to do this Norm, Big  s Live On Keep your hooks wet & your Butts dry also make sure your whistle stays wet
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 Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/25/2007 Posts: 39 Points: 138 Location: Chicago, IL.
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Dan,
We have the same problem on our 39. The bump you speak of is not solid, it is a extrusion and you would probably cut through it before you could get all of the water to drain. There is a cross section of the hull in one of the brochures on this site that shows it. I was thinking of raising the area by fairing it forward far enough to allow the water to run over the top of the bump.
I can email you the picture if you can't find it.
Rob
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Rank: Dedicated Tin Star Groups: Member
Joined: 12/15/2007 Posts: 90 Points: 82 Location: Lake Cumberland
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For just this small area, consider using a different paint that can be kept underwater - epoxy bottom paints are designed for this.
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 Rank: Dedicated Tin Star Groups: Member
Joined: 12/10/2007 Posts: 80 Points: -1,159 Location: Lake of the Ozarks, Mo.
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click on "search" in the logged in as: line and then type in "old Marinette brochures". There is a whole pot full of brochures that I and several others put on there. Scroll down, waaay down and you will come to pictures of construction of the hull. It shows the extrusions. The bump or gun'l is hollow and the deck slides into it on one side and the hull slides into it on the other. If you drill or cut the bump it will drain directly into the hull. It is always interesting to look at all the brochures and see the different layouts.
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 Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star Groups: Member
Joined: 12/9/2007 Posts: 135 Points: -5,940 Location: Hixson, TN
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I almost didn't find this post this evening.... I was rooting around on my boat a bit earlier and found a couple of cross-sections of hull construction laying in the bilge area under the forward bunk. I guess these were used as sales tools back in the day to provide some detail on construction. Just a guess. I took a couple of quick photos. Will try to get some better ones later. This cross section of the extrusion with deck and side pieces welded in should answer the question concerning what is under the 'bump' on the deck. The other cross-section appears to be the keel. John B.
Goldpoint attached the following image(s):


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 Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star Groups: Member
Joined: 12/16/2007 Posts: 464 Points: 991 Location: Petersburg, Illinois
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John,
Nice post! I've seen that in drawings but it's good to see the actual material.
Roger
The trouble with getting old, There is a lot of info in memory, I either can't find it or don't trust it if I do!
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 Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star Groups: Member
Joined: 12/7/2007 Posts: 445 Points: 711 Location: Alpena, Michigan
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Awesome photos! When I sanded the deck to raw aluminum it looked to me that my  had a red rubber between the deck and the upper part of the extrusions U. This coud have just been a thick primer coat but the only place I found it was near the rub rail. Either way it would seem that welding eiher side would have cooked either material away.
"When THE PEOPLE fear their Goverment, there is tyranny. When the Goverment fears THE PEOPLE, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson
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 Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star Groups: Member
Joined: 12/10/2007 Posts: 415 Points: 1,002 Location: Lake Michigan
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Wow. No wonder these boats are so solid. These interlocking Marinette extrusions are amazing. They tie the two halves of the hull and the deck and gunwales together and provide a continuous interlocked and welded connection, not just where a screw would be like on a typical fiberglass seam.
Peter
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 Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star Groups: Member
, Other Mods
Joined: 12/10/2007 Posts: 580 Points: -3,869 Location: DeWitt/Lansing, MI
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Goldpoint wrote:...will try to get some better ones later. John B. Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures. They are like Xrays.
Surface Interval 1975 28' Express, Single Chrysler M360 ('87), Raymarine E120 MFD, HD digital sonar, GPS, 4KW radome, Sirius satellite weather, X-10 autopilot with ST70 controller, Yahama 15HP 4 stroke electric start and tilt with hyd steering & remote throttle control, Floscan 9000, ACR Sat2 406 EPIRB, 24 volt stern thruster, Interlux Brightside paint ('06-'08) Trilux 33 on bottom, Big Jon electric downriggers, Fish Hawk X4, Traxtech swivel mounts, Bert's track and ratchet holders. Click here for all the equipment details and here for the complete photo album.
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 Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star Groups: Member
Joined: 12/9/2007 Posts: 135 Points: -5,940 Location: Hixson, TN
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A few more photos of those two extrusions that are a bit better. Looks like the smaller cross-section is the extrusion used to join the bottom to the side. Note the difference in metal thickness of the plates. Goldpoint
Goldpoint attached the following image(s):



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 Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star Groups: Administration
, Member
Joined: 12/5/2007 Posts: 2,473 Points: 4,333 Location: New Tripoli, PA
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Now, that photo I can understand. The other ones are still confusing.
Thanks for posting!
Jeff
"There is another class of coloured people who make a business of keeping the troubles, the wrongs, and the hardships of the Negro race before the public. Having learned that they are able to make a living out of their troubles, they have grown into the settled habit of advertising their wrongs -- partly because they want sympathy and partly because it pays. Some of these people do not want the Negro to lose his grievances, because they do not want to lose their jobs." Booker T. Washington
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 Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star Groups: Member
Joined: 12/16/2007 Posts: 464 Points: 991 Location: Petersburg, Illinois
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Good job on the photos
Roger
The trouble with getting old, There is a lot of info in memory, I either can't find it or don't trust it if I do!
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 Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star Groups: Member
Joined: 12/7/2007 Posts: 445 Points: 711 Location: Alpena, Michigan
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Yes...great! Norm dosen't even need his quad-focal glasses.
My topside deck was not welded though. I've got that red rubber stuff on top and too much black crap underneath to tell if it was welded there. Maybe it's just JB Welded together...
"When THE PEOPLE fear their Goverment, there is tyranny. When the Goverment fears THE PEOPLE, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson
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 Rank: Upper Crust Bronze Star Groups: Member
Joined: 12/21/2008 Posts: 115 Points: 240 Location: Aston, PA
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I found this while surfing for Big  info thought it might help. Killer extrusions, fairly heavy plating and all welded... no wonder they are TOUGH! Fenders?? We dont need no stinking fenders!
Jazman attached the following image(s):

Bill 1975 37' FB Sedan Sleepless Knights Bohemia River Chesapeake City, MD
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 Rank: Dedicated Tin Star Groups: Member
Joined: 7/27/2008 Posts: 91 Points: -6 Location: louisville ,ky
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drilling a hole will cure the problem of the water standing i to have this on my 32 but the hole needs to be big enough so that it does not clog up with just normal dust and lint the drain holes in the front of the 32 look like 1/4 but they still clog with dirt and spiders, if you do put a hole in it make it big enough for like a #3 an fitting x 1/8 npt and put the fitting up from the bottom to flush off with top skin with a little piece of screen in it and then you could plum it to any drain you wanted fitting woud be 1/8 npt male by #3 an male (3/16) and also would be aluminum mark
mark http://www.outdoorstokerboilersofky.com/
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 Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star Groups: Member
, Other Mods
Joined: 12/10/2007 Posts: 580 Points: -3,869 Location: DeWitt/Lansing, MI
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Surface Interval 1975 28' Express, Single Chrysler M360 ('87), Raymarine E120 MFD, HD digital sonar, GPS, 4KW radome, Sirius satellite weather, X-10 autopilot with ST70 controller, Yahama 15HP 4 stroke electric start and tilt with hyd steering & remote throttle control, Floscan 9000, ACR Sat2 406 EPIRB, 24 volt stern thruster, Interlux Brightside paint ('06-'08) Trilux 33 on bottom, Big Jon electric downriggers, Fish Hawk X4, Traxtech swivel mounts, Bert's track and ratchet holders. Click here for all the equipment details and here for the complete photo album.
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 Rank: Upper Crust Bronze Star Groups: Member
Joined: 10/27/2008 Posts: 173 Points: -1,109 Location: sunsetbay lk erie WNY
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dont drill ! ! i have a 32 with same issue what i think you need to do is as fallows buy a 45 gallon keg of C/M spiced rum and a spunge and put the keg on affected aria so she sits lower in the water then i will come by and sop up the standing water and drink all your rum repeat as neccary
HP Sunset Bay lake Erie NY boat name Sunrise 32' f/b fisherman"It would be a labor of love, if I loved to labor" cpt Brent
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 Rank: Upper Crust Bronze Star Groups: Member
Joined: 12/5/2007 Posts: 198 Points: 403 Location: Knoxville, TN
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Now that's a kind fellow  owner. willing to sacrifice his time for a little refreshment. Nice offer Capt Brent. I was pondering doing the cut out and asked about it last year, decided against it, someone said i may run into structural issues. Glad to see the pix in this post. Me thinks I may look into the drain hole idea as well.
If at first you don,t succeed, Find out if there is a prize for last place!
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