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Raw Water Gate Valve Seacock
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HuckFinn
#1 Posted : Sunday, March 07, 2010 10:17:00 AM(UTC)
HuckFinn

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I've been reading that this gate valve should be a ball valve and flanged at the bottom. Reason that if a piece of debris would lodge and jam the gate valve and you wouldn't know if it's completely open or closed. I don't want to start tearing it apart before I ask you guys. Getting really confused on what to do. Maybe the gate valve is OK the way it is? or change to bronze ball valve to the thru hull that's probably bronze? What isolates the bronze? I was looking at Marelon and it seems to be best mated with Marlon thru hulls even though they mate them with bronze thru hulls.
Here's pics of the way it's set up now...
SeaC2
SeaC5
SeaC6
SeaC7
PT-73
1973 32' FB Express
Chrysler 318's
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Barkleydave
#2 Posted : Sunday, March 07, 2010 11:46:17 AM(UTC)
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I will get to the point. Dump it... and replace it with the correct ball and cock valve. Marleon is would be a good choice.

Gate valves are desgined to regulate flow.. no indication of on and off....too slow to close in an emergency.. and they can reduce volume by as much as 10-15 percent.

safe boating,
dave



None
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GB49
#3 Posted : Sunday, March 07, 2010 12:57:02 PM(UTC)
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Make sure you have this on the outside of the hull.


And put this on the inside of the hull. Can use a block of starboard on inside for shim.


May try to find some type of marlon insulator ring to keep it away from the AL but best bet is to 5200 the hell out of both fittings and their threads and tighten them down on each other. Will take 2 people and couple of good size wrenches.
Then you can use some stainless lags to fasten the triangular base to the starboard shim (obviously don't lag through the hull).

As long as the fitting is well sealed and water cant get between the AL and bronze you should be ok.

Replace the hose too if its stiff or been on there for a while.

Also may consider one of those emergency bail systems that can use the engine water pump to bail the bilge. I cant think of the name of those darn things. They just "T" off the intake with another valve.

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
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dougrose
#4 Posted : Monday, March 08, 2010 7:01:00 AM(UTC)
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Just say no to gate valves.

My bronze thruhulls have caused no trouble, and I don't see a reason to change them out. They are insulated from the hull, and yours appear to be also. I would check the isolation with an ohmmeter, when out of the water.

Marelon is good stuff and if I were to replace mine, I would use it for both thruhull and ball valve. I have bronze ball valves now and I am carrying some 316 stainless ones as spares.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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HuckFinn
#5 Posted : Monday, March 08, 2010 12:50:56 PM(UTC)
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Thanks guys. Got the gate valve off after work today. Wasn't as easy as I make it sound. I'll replace the old hose too. The bronze thru hull seems good and solid like Doug I don't see a reason to open a can of worms before boating season, so lookin to get a bronze seacock to match up and shim it around the nut with starboard with lag bolt setup. BTW it's a 1 1/4" valve. I know what valve your talking about Karl, good idea for removing bilge water in case, thanks. Here's what it looks like now with a little photoshop since it got dark quick...
PT-73
1973 32' FB Express
Chrysler 318's
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dougrose
#6 Posted : Monday, March 08, 2010 11:46:50 PM(UTC)
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You could go ahead and get Marelon valves to use with the bronze thruhull, they are perfectly compatible. Then, you could change out the bronze thruhull with Marelon later, if you wanted. Personally, I like bronze or 316 stainless but I have never heard of a Marelon fitting breaking.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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