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Nautalex Vinyl Flooring
RCPRATHER
#1 Posted : Monday, March 08, 2010 2:12:34 PM(UTC)
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I just purchased a 32ft Express. The former owner had a brand new roll of Nautalex Vinyl. I was planning on using it and also planning on replacing the decking with treated plywood. Can I just use treated plywood? or do I need to use marine grade rated plywood? Also does anyone know what type of adhesive should be used for the vinyl?
I will be posting pic's soon, she needs a great deal of work and I will most likely drive you guys crazy with all my questions.
Thanks in advance,
Rob
"Great Escape"
32ft 1972 Express
Twin 318's
Located at LBYC
On the Ohio River at mile marker 480
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HuckFinn
#2 Posted : Monday, March 08, 2010 2:54:49 PM(UTC)
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Welcome from across the river. Use marine grade plywood! It has water proof glue and will last longer than treated plywood which will fail quickly...
http://www.helium.com/it...pressure-treated-plywood
PT-73
1973 32' FB Express

Chrysler 318's
NightMoves
#3 Posted : Monday, March 08, 2010 9:36:30 PM(UTC)
NightMoves

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I used concreat form board it is plastic on both sides and was recomanded to me by the owner of the wooden boat shop.

Mike 1970 32 express
fastjeff
#4 Posted : Monday, March 08, 2010 10:08:35 PM(UTC)
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If it were mine, that roll of Never Clean(able) would make a swell FIRE!

Jeff
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Docsnow
#5 Posted : Monday, March 08, 2010 10:24:21 PM(UTC)
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Rob,

Yes there is a special adhesive can’t really remember but I think it was called Nautolux # 80 something on the label do to the nature of Nautolex marine deck covering the regular flooring adhesives will not cure. Maybe someone that has just redone their cockpit decking will recall the name of the adhesive. On the use of treated plywood it’s been brought up several time that it’s not recommended do having chemical properties in it that don’t agree with aluminum. I would recommend sealing what ever decking U choose in a couple of coats of West System epoxy especially on the cut edges.

Norm,

PS Jeff is right it’s hard to keep clean

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rv
#6 Posted : Monday, March 08, 2010 11:10:10 PM(UTC)
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Do not use treated plywood ii is not very straight and the chemicals will react with the aluminum (has a high copper content). Marine grade plywood is the way to go different glue in the wood help make it water resistant (no copper). I don't know anything about concrete board it should be ok if it is protected with plastic (the concrete itself has acid that will react with aluminum).
You can use regular ply wood if you coat both sides with epoxy. Personally I would go with the marine plywood.
Bob
Barkleydave
#7 Posted : Tuesday, March 09, 2010 1:02:58 AM(UTC)
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32 years ago I installed an aft deck on Chris Craft Roamer. We used exterior grade ply-wood and West Sytem epoxy resin. (Several coats as I recall). The deck was carpeted by the owner and that deck which is in the weather no aft curtain for the past 32 years. It is as solid today as the day installed.

I have build several woood kayaks and a cedar strip canoe. All use MAS epoxy inside and out over fibergalss cloth. No water gets to the wood. Varnish is applied over the resin as a finish coat to protect resin from UV breakdown.

dave
None
Dave Morris
#8 Posted : Tuesday, March 09, 2010 4:31:02 AM(UTC)
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Rob
Defender Marine sells Nautalex Adhesive # 88 that you use with their products
Dave
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yooper
#9 Posted : Tuesday, March 09, 2010 4:58:22 AM(UTC)
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I bought a roll of nautalex for my 32' project boat, a sedan. Then I decided to go in a different direction. I made accurate templates from 1/4" plywood because my deck was too far gone to use the old decking for a pattern. You only have to make templates for one side. Flip them for the other side. I was going to route out the deck parts using the template but there was only one curve along the transon and the bit was $35 so I just sawed and belt sanded the curved edge. I then hauled the deck parts to a Rhinoliner dealer and he spayed on light grey bedliner for $150. I had the sides lapped over about 6". This was a good price. The cost for do it yourself bedliner was more. Here is the payoff. I just put the new deck down right away. I can continue work on the project boat and not worry about scuffing it up much. I want to get to all of the boat systems now so the last thing I will do is to screw the deck down permanently. One mistake I made was not inletting for the scupper drains.

You don't need marine plywood which is designed to be bent over forms. You do need plywood is stable and not prone to warping. You can use any 5/8" plywood with real exterior glue, not CDX. Most modern plywood is wet warped crap and looks like it was made out of firewood. I've seen some nice stuff called Arauco and MDO (highway signboard) looked good. Look out -- the main function of plywood manufacturers is to take out so much cost they screw everybody.

I know that the best decks being put down by forum members are aluminum and some members have have beautiful restored nautalex decks. My approach suits me and only takes a couple of days for one man.
RCPRATHER
#10 Posted : Tuesday, March 09, 2010 8:07:58 AM(UTC)
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Gentlemen,
I thank you all for all the great advice and guidance. I will keep you posted on the progress. I will be starting the restoration work on Saturday rain or shine. Wife say's she has already figured she won't have any nails left after we start this project.Lol I told her after selling our boat last spring I would take a few years off, I missed it too much.
"Great Escape"
32ft 1972 Express
Twin 318's
Located at LBYC
On the Ohio River at mile marker 480
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