(SCROLL DOWN, FOR THE SOLUTION TO MY ISSUE. I DID NOT DO THE FULL MSD CONVERSION...)



Did a search and came up a little light.

Still having intermittent problems. Definitely ignition related. Tired of these BS Chrysler ignitions.

Has anyone done the MSD conversion? What do I need to know? Specifically, how will it work with my 1987 tach & sync setup?

I want to jump on this ASAP - tired of "not knowing" what to expect when I head out for the day :(

Thanks!

John

I installed Mallory ignition and coil. All the electronics are in the distributor except the coil. No resistor needed if you get the correct coil. Make sure you get a marine distributor that has spark arrestors built in.

If you would like the part numbers I could look it up if you would like.

Spent a good deal of time talking with Jeff on this one...

What I've decided to try is to eliminate the ballast resistor (dual) and switch to a MSD Blaster 12v coils.

There might be a chance that the 5-pin Ignition Modules may not function without the 9 volts provided by the 2nd side of the ballast resistor, so I'm taking 2 new 4-pin units with me, just in case - no start, swap them out too...

This is the last step I have, before I completely replace the Chrysler Ignitions. I think it's got a better-than-fair chance of solving my issues, so it's worth a shot. The upside is that I will gain a better spark, with the 45,000v coil (you can increase the plug gap to .060), and use fewer parts in the process - less to go wrong. And I save about $500 on 2 MSD systems.

I'll keep you guys posted.

John

PS. On those Mallory units - Were you able to find a counter-rotating unit, or did you have to machine and tweak a standard unit to fit? Or did you need one at all??? Thx.

Here's the latest update. Jeff has a diagram that I used to plan my strategy. Maybe he can attach it on this thread...

Replaced the Chrysler boxes with NAPA 4-pin units. $23 each.
http://www.napaonline.co...01+101980+50022+2022024

Replaced the coils with MSD Blaster High Vibration Ignition Coils #8222. Summit Racing. $46 each.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8222/

Had to use a .8 ohm ballast resistor, because I retained the factory ignition system. MSD wanted to use theirs, #8214,
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8214/

BUT I OPTED TO USE THE ONE FROM MALLORY INSTEAD, Part #700, because it has post terminals with nuts. A MUCH better connection. They list theirs as a variable resistance of .7 to 1.5 ohms. I have a feeling that MSD's is variable too - they just don't say so. Either way, it's close enough and it looks like better quality. $17 each. I actually got it price-matched at Advance Auto Parts.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-700/

Lots of dielectric grease. Especially in the module plug and coil tower! $3 tube.

I removed the 5 pin modules and factory resistors (dual, 4 pin) - some of you only have single 2-pin resistors.

I cut out the 5th wire to the module, since it was no longer going to be used. This wire provided about 9v to the module, though we don't really know why...

I cut out ALL redundant male/female quick disconnect pigtails. Less connections, less problems.

New ballast resistor gets RING terminals (not spades). Better connection.

Check and replace existing coil terminals, as needed - mine were OK.

CHECK THE CABLES AT THE SOLENOID - MY STARBOARD BATTERY CABLE WAS LOOSE :(
Might have been some of the problem, on that engine, but the original COIL WAS LEAKING as well, probably giving me the breaking-up-at-2800rpm issue...

RESISTOR TERMINALS WERE LOOSE, on the original Port ballast resistor. This caused my tach to go nuts, and probably because the engine was cutting in and out. NOT GOOD. This was solved with the ring terminals and new resistors.

All told, I have about $190 Total invested. That's HALF of what it cost me to get pulled and repair 1 prop, damaged from backing into the rocks, when I lost an engine. Cheap insurance, if you ask me, to get rid of a lot of the Chrysler shortcomings.

BTW - During a 2 day, 20 mile round trip, we cruised at about 4000rpm out and 4600rpm back. Not a hiccup whatsoever, and even the tachs were more stable than they've ever been :)

John

That's good to know. The advantage of the resistor is this: If the "Admiral" leaves the ignition on for some reason (you how they do dumb things like that) it won't fry the coil.

Jeff

Kind of curious, since mine's running better than it ever has - what, exactly, did you try or replace?

Call me, I want to talk to you about it 850-255-0498

Hey Spearo, just thought of this: Mine did the exact same thing you described when my ignition module crapped out.. Heats up etc.. Check your reluctor gap! Check it like compass points North South East West.. Well, none of them are 180 deg. across from each other, but check them... Then put a dial indicator on the shaft and move the shaft back and forth and see how much it moves.. If the bearings in your distributor are shot, you could think the gap is ok, but when it runs the shaft has so much run out it hits the reluctor.. Bet one of the reluctor poles is hitting the pick up! Check your distributor shaft and see if it's bent a bit. Mine is and that's the same symptoms mine was having.. I'm truing it up this weekend.
Hope this helps.
Sean