I recommend Rule.
I had Lovetts in my first 2 boats until I found the rubber belts had dried out and broken, rendering the pump useless.
Rules are direct drive meaning the impeller is mounted directly on the motor shaft, eliminating the need for
rubber belts.

Ok here's the latest on my 37' dcfb. Greg finally got my port engine into the dyno and did 5 pulls starting at 32 degrees advance and ending with 36 degrees advance. The results using the stock intake and carb were as follows. The best of all the pulls was with the timing set at 36 degrees of total advance. Horsepower is 368 with a whopping 490 pounds of torque at 2800 rpm using the stock chrysler camshafts that were re-ground by Lunati to the specs of their cam p/n #60300 . The new pistons are forged S.R.P with a compression ratio of 9.5 : 1. The distributors are M.S.D running the standard 6-A box. It was wonderful news to know that the stock carbs did not need to be re-jetted with the air / fuel mixture coming in at 13.5 : 1 . Besides the M.S.D. ignition the only other exotic piece on the engines are the addition of the comp cams Ultra Pro Magnum™ Rocker Arm kit. This is a shaft style kit very much like the stock units but allow for each rocker arm to be adjusted individually and the roller tipped rocker arms have needle bearings that ride on the shaft to futher reduce valve train stress and enhance economy.

Id like to thank all the members of this site for all you help and advice and to Greg from Greg's engines in Riverview, Michigan for one hell of a job on the engine build. Now comes the fun part....getting them back into the boat hopefully this week.

Jeff...no not at all. I like it when someone plays the devils advocate. If you like , I can post the dyno results and let you look for yourself. Greg didnt say that we had to set the timing at 36 degrees. It will be set somewhere between 32 and 36 degrees of total advance because thats the area the cam grind likes to work within. Exhaust temps even at 36 degrees were mild but again thats on the dyno. With the working load of the transmissions turning the props all that will change. The dyno was done just to check jetting and the metering rod transition curve to make shure that with the new cam grind the engines wouldnt be running to lean. Remember...the goal with this build was more bottom end torque for docking and much better economy while under way. All this comes from the balancing of the crank, proper line honing, proper cylinder bore sealing and the reduction of valve train friction. Mild porting and port matching of the stock intake manifold and heads plus the M.S.D ignition also helps in this regard as well.

Now if you add all this up and add that to the fact that the 37' dcfb is a very light and efficient hull design what I will have is a boat that will be able to be used on a regular basis even at todays high gas dock prices while most other boaters will be sitting at their docks crying in their beer at the high cost of fuel and how much it takes just to push their high rise plastic condos around from point A to Point B.

http://www.gregsheadsandengines.com

Has anyone done a wrap around bench seat on the bridge of a 37' dcfb?
DG

Not to act pissy, but a brief dyno pull is not comparable to HOURS of slogging along, pushing a boat "up hill". I would definitely back off a few degrees on that timing.

Jeff

PS: Marine Power sets the timing on their 315 hp, 350 cube Vorteck SB Chevies at 26 degreees total advance. That's a high turbulence cylinder head, yet they only run 26 degrees. Drag racers (brief power spurts) run 36 to 40 with the same heads.

Okay. Just looking out for you, 'cause nobody wants holes in their pistons.

Jeff

Either the vanes are straight (not lagging blades, like an impeller) or they are not. If straight the alternators will cool in either direction. If not, it has to rotate only one way. Study the blades and see which you have.

Jeff

PS: A photo would help.

Ok....I figured out what the mystery wire terminated to. It seems that rather then running lager copper wire from the engine bay for the anchor windlass, what the installer did was to run # 10 wire from the main battery's to a tractor battery mounted amid-ship and then go from the battery up to the windless motor as a way to buffer the amount of current thats pulled by the windlass under load.

Anyone who has a 1982 37' dcfb please contact me. I have questions on 2 sets of wires and what they actually power.
At the lower helm mounted on the ceiling is a hinged switch panel. on the far right side of that panel are 3 wires. One is orange, one is red and one is light blue. On my boat, the orange and red wires are twisted together and taped and the light blue wire is just cut.

On that same panel, on the far left side are 2 black wires with one having a white stripe that are not connected to anything.

If anyone can help with these 2 mystery circuits please feel free to jump in.

Thanks
Denis

How does this apply to the "We Be Jammin'"? 40' catamaran?

Dougrose: where did you find those formulas. That the very thing I was trying to remember when I posted. My Dad had a book that had all that information in it and It somehow got lost or stolen.

As far as the catamaran goes I do know that they are much more stable as far as ride goes.,