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Rhinoliner on a new cockpit deck
yooper
#1 Posted : Friday, April 18, 2008 6:55:34 PM(UTC)
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The cockpit deck on my project 32’ was rotted. Last year I removed the cockpit deck, bought the nautolex covering and adhesive, made a ¼" template and cut out new 5/8" deck pieces. Today I decided not to restore the deck with the original nautolex. It is a tedious two man job and I would be repeating a system that didn’t work well the first time it was used. I dragged the template over to a Rhinoliner dealer. He made me a very good price to spray grey textured Rhinoliner on the 5/8" deck pieces.

I’m making some other changes.

The original deck was attached to the aluminum floor joists up from the bottom side with washers and wood screws. The screws along the cabin side walls and around the scuppers were very hard to reach. In these areas I am going to screw down from the top side and into the aluminum joists with stainless screws through trim rings.

The caulking around the sides dried hard and had to be ground off. I am going to use something more flexible and easier to handle and remove.

The idea is to have a deck that can be taken up if necessary without wrecking it.

I wish I had time to design some big improvements in the hatch, but I don’t. A Waterproof gasket would really be nice. So I will use the piano hinge. I will not use the thin sharp edge stainless flange around the edge of the hatch. That is DANGEROUS. On my 28’ I fell against it while opening the hatch and ended up in the emergency ward. Lucky I fell on my arm and not on my throat. Guys...Take the time to round out the edge of this flange.
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Docsnow
#2 Posted : Friday, April 18, 2008 9:22:03 PM(UTC)
Docsnow

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Yoop,

Them are a couple of great ideas Applause I especially like the one on rounding the corners on the hatch
corners when I redid mine I reversed the way the hatch opened so it would lean up against the
F/B ladder works good except when U have to get in to the Saloon U eighter snag & tear your
shorts or gash the leg d'oh!  that will be one of my first to do after launch & replacing the F/B Eh? Don't forget to chaulk them top side screws or all your work will be for not Shame on you

Norm,

BIG BigMs Live On Applause
http://www.picturetrail.com/gid23690601 Try it now there's music to listen to while U view the Big M's

http://www.PictureTrail..../index.php?clubID=20726 this one for the Pix club


 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

Some people try to turn back their odometers.Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
ThanksDad
#3 Posted : Saturday, April 19, 2008 9:36:48 AM(UTC)
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All are great ideas. Can you post some photos of the finished panels?
Scott Ross
"Thanks Dad"
1988 32-Fisherman
Son Rise Marina
Sandusky, Ohio
USCG 50-Ton Masters Rating
NightMoves
#4 Posted : Saturday, April 19, 2008 3:46:23 PM(UTC)
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On the top side screws I drilled the holes in the ply bigger than the screws and west epoxey the holes

Mike
dougrose
#5 Posted : Saturday, April 19, 2008 4:00:11 PM(UTC)
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Just curious, but can the Rhinoliner guy come to the boat and do the sidedecks and foredeck? That stuff is pretty good.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
yooper
#6 Posted : Saturday, April 19, 2008 5:56:28 PM(UTC)
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Dougrose,

I don't know how portable the Rhinoliner equipment is. I will ask when I drop off the deck pieces. Herculiner has a do it yourself roll on system which costs $149 for a one gallon kit. Colors are limited. My Rhinoliner guy matched that price and will throw in the application of the materiel. Anyway I'm tired of doing everything myself. I got a lot to do if I want to launch my project 32' this year. Two more issues came up. I have to fabricate a big 3" washer out of sheet aluminum to hold down the scupper drains. The steel ones completely rotted away. The screws put every six inches around the perimeter of the deck to hold the metal corner trim ripped little tears in the original nautolex. If I decide to replace the trim I should bevel edge of the deck to clear the screws. The Rhino guy said he can control the thickness of the material along the foreward edge so it will fit under the screen door bottom plate. I have to carefully measure this area.
dougrose
#7 Posted : Sunday, April 20, 2008 1:33:27 AM(UTC)
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Years ago I planned to purchase a Rhinoliner franchise and I trained on the system. I backed out because of legal issues, basically RL was only willing to give me franchise protection for 5 miles around my shop, which would be great here in DC but made no sense in Brevard County, Florida where a five-mile radius doesn't take in much. Couldn't get them to see it, the (&^^R%&*^&( franchise manager had the brains of a snail.

I had planned to run the shop in an old service station, and to mount the equipment in my truck so that I could go to dealerships and do a bunch of pickups at once for them on site. The marine angle never occurred to me.

Sounds to me like your guy works only out of his shop.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
yooper
#8 Posted : Monday, April 28, 2008 5:41:10 PM(UTC)
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doug,
I dropped the deck pieces off today. There was a runabout in the shop having the entire hull coated. The shop was busy coating a lot of different farm and industrial equipment. A pickup had a dropin liner but had rhinoliner applied under the car and halfway up the sides. It looked great and is protected from all the road salt. I asked about portability of equipment for a 32' boat deck. He said it was possible.
yooper
#9 Posted : Wednesday, May 07, 2008 9:02:11 AM(UTC)
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I got the deck pieces back from Rhinoliner. They look real good. I will post pictures when I get them. I cut the deck from 5/8" which had one sanded hardwood side. It warped when it dried. I may have to use wood or metal gussets on the hatch to take out the warp. The rest should be OK once it is pinned to the deck. If I had to do it over again I would track down some 5/8" MDO plywood which stays flat. Even if I hadda drive outta da UP Eh....

Another tip.. Cut a template for the main deck piece out of 3/8" plywood or 1/4" hardboard. Then you can zip out the 5/8" stock with a router for one side, Flip template and zip out the other side. I used 1/4 luan for the template... I thought is was a little too soft for a router.
yooper
#10 Posted : Thursday, May 15, 2008 6:59:29 AM(UTC)
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Meltonhill,

Here is a picture of the deck pieces. I need to paint the raw wood on the backside bright white. I also got another brain storm. I cut a big washer out of aluminum sheet to hold down the original scupper drain. I may cut a larger piece shaped to fit under the flanges on the cockpit sides and deck joists. This might pull down the corner of the deck when I tighten the big nut on the scupper drain. Worth a try.
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meltonhill
#11 Posted : Thursday, May 15, 2008 7:06:54 AM(UTC)
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Sorry too fast, looks great might have to try something like that. How much? if you don't mind telling.

Thanks, Thad
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