logo
Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

IMRON
sfordsr
#1 Posted : Tuesday, April 29, 2008 11:12:54 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member - Wooden Star

Groups: Member
Joined: 12/6/2007(UTC)
Posts: 22
Points: 72

Anyone have an idea how long an IMRON paint finish will last? Or at least look good?
Sponsor
Please Register : To weed out spammers, new members may not post until approved. An email is usually sent after approval. This forum is for Marinette Owners and other aluminum boat boaters who wish to share boating information. Aluminum Roamer owners are also welcome. (Do not post content you do not have the right to post and mass (robots) posters are unwelcome. We also have a marine electronics page and lots of Chrysler Engine info. State by what permission you copy content and give credit properly.) The site is now fixed with some more Chrysler information. We have space for pictures on the new location. Use shinkpic to autochange size http://www.onthegosoft.com/sp_download.htm

Great Sites - http://www.marinette.com Marinette Company

http://web.me.com/dougmrose/Doug_Roses_Website/Welcome.html

http://fastjeff.tripod.com/ Repair Tricks and Techniques for Marinettes

http://www.greatlakesmarinetteclub.com/

PLEASE post in the appropriate folder. Please, do not post your actual email address in publicly readable websites. The first rule is be a class act.

Bill
#2 Posted : Tuesday, April 29, 2008 11:29:22 PM(UTC)
Bill

Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star

Groups: Member
Joined: 12/7/2007(UTC)
Posts: 190
Points: 217

Thanks: 58 times
Was thanked: 3 time(s) in 3 post(s)
Depends
If the prep work is done correctly 10 to 15 years. longer if shed kept.
7/8 the cost is correct prep. Skimp on PREPERATION and your looking at a mess in two years.
Just my $.02's
Bill
"ALUMINATION"
1975 Marinette 37' Fly Bridge Sedan
Twin Chrysler 360 cu in - 250 hp
Grosse MI - FYC
GB49
#4 Posted : Wednesday, April 30, 2008 12:07:47 AM(UTC)
GB49

Rank: Marinette Royal Aluminum Poster (300+) posts

Groups: Member
Joined: 12/4/2007(UTC)
Posts: 685
Points: 1,824

Thanks: 5 times
Was thanked: 14 time(s) in 12 post(s)
Contrary to what most will say, keep it waxed every year after the paint job and it will last years. A good wax is the key to keep any paint from oxidizing.

As mentioned earlier, prep is also key. Prep is 90% of the paint job.
There is a place by me that preps by removing everything down to the AL and even removes and replaces the fairing/bondo.

Some paints don't work well with bondo particularly the older stuff Marinette used. The new paint will begin to lift at the fairing seams.

I've seen a beautiful Marinette painted with PPG paint. It is waxed every year and looks like it was dipped in glass. Its been more than a few years since it has been painted. Just amazing how good it looks.

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
jralbert
#3 Posted : Wednesday, April 30, 2008 4:08:56 AM(UTC)
Rank: Administration

Groups: Admin, Administration
Joined: 12/4/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,117
Points: 665

Was thanked: 12 time(s) in 12 post(s)
Bill wrote:
Depends if the prep work is done correctly 10 to 15 years. longer if shed kept. 7/8 the cost is correct prep. Skimp on PREPERATION and your looking at a mess in two years.Bill

Bill is spot on correct. My boat was done in Awgrip in 1999 (at a rather large cash outlay, I might add) and a couple of years later, some areas began to flake. I know that it was completely due to poor prep - leaving bare aluminum exposed way too long before coating. Now, 9 years later, other corrosion points, primarily the notorious points under the rails, are also beginning to show paint lift bubbles. I try never to look down because I will see only dollar signs along that area.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
dougrose
#5 Posted : Thursday, May 01, 2008 4:03:38 AM(UTC)
dougrose

Rank: Marinette Royal Aluminum Poster (300+) posts

Groups: Member, Administration, Admin
Joined: 12/7/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,332
Points: 1,746

Was thanked: 25 time(s) in 21 post(s)
I have seen Imron/Awlgrip put directly over existing surfaces. I do not believe that this is a good idea. Use a 2-part epoxy primer, perhaps a high-build primer that can be sanded, and put the top coat on the primer. This is because epoxy sticks to most anything, polyurethanes don't.

I once had a guy paint his go-fast boat in my shop. Took days to tape off the graphics. Then the Man With The Golden Arm came in and did a beautiful spray job in bright yellow on the whole boat. Next morning, the paint was all in little globules with bare spots between, and hard as a rock. They sanded it down, retaped, and reshot over epoxy primer, as had been suggested. Beautiful job, but two weeks wasted and you can still see little "coins" in the finish where the globules were.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
fastjeff
#6 Posted : Thursday, May 01, 2008 5:09:23 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

Rank: Administration

Medals: aluminum star: For Marinette Owners Everywhere above the call of duty

Groups: Admin2, Admin2, Admin, Administration, Member
Joined: 12/5/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3,133
Points: 5,732

Was thanked: 34 time(s) in 30 post(s)
Polyurethane PRIMER sticks to anything, and other paints stick to it well. It's easier to use than epoxy, and sands beatuiful. When repairing f-glass molds, I found that priming the f-glass with urethane primer produced a better bond than resin on resin!

Jeff (the Man with the Tin Hand)
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

dougrose
#7 Posted : Thursday, May 01, 2008 5:20:38 AM(UTC)
dougrose

Rank: Marinette Royal Aluminum Poster (300+) posts

Groups: Member, Administration, Admin
Joined: 12/7/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,332
Points: 1,746

Was thanked: 25 time(s) in 21 post(s)
I've always used the high-build epoxy primer because it sands so well and can cover a really BAD surface, and also because I've always used the high-build epoxy primer. Perhaps I should try polyurethane primer. Is there a sandable one you can recommend? Don't rush, I have several gallons of the epoxy I haven't used yet, and I am not using it up very fast sitting here in DC....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
fastjeff
#8 Posted : Thursday, May 01, 2008 10:58:11 PM(UTC)
fastjeff

Rank: Administration

Medals: aluminum star: For Marinette Owners Everywhere above the call of duty

Groups: Admin2, Admin2, Admin, Administration, Member
Joined: 12/5/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3,133
Points: 5,732

Was thanked: 34 time(s) in 30 post(s)
All of them are easily sandable, and they too are high build. They've been the staple of body shops for some time.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

dougrose
#9 Posted : Friday, May 02, 2008 2:26:18 AM(UTC)
dougrose

Rank: Marinette Royal Aluminum Poster (300+) posts

Groups: Member, Administration, Admin
Joined: 12/7/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,332
Points: 1,746

Was thanked: 25 time(s) in 21 post(s)
"...for some time."

I haven't done any body work for 40 years. I guess I need to get out more.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
Users browsing this topic
guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF 1.9.5.5 | YAF © 2003-2011, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.111 seconds.