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Window installation (next to sliding doors) Help? Options · View
RiverRatt
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 7:32:38 PM

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Location: Aurora, Indiana Ohio River
I removed the windows next to the sliding doors on my 32 BigM to paint. They were sealed with double sided tape. I was just going to reinstall them with a good silicone caulk.

Is there any reason for the double sided tape??
(The widows have screws every couple of inches.)

The same question for the drip rail above the cabin windows?

Robert



If you perceive that there are four possible ways in which a procedure can go wrong, and circumvent these, then a fifth way, unprepared for, will promptly develop.
Sponsor
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 7:32:38 PM
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Fastjeff
Posted: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 4:04:57 AM

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I vote for the caulk.

Jeff

I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
GB49
Posted: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 5:46:42 AM

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I used double sided 3M tape for the drip rails above the windows.

Never removed the windows next to the doors.

Tape is less mess, imo.

-Karl

1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
yooper
Posted: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 6:07:18 AM
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Location: Escanaba
I vote for foam tape. I got my drip rails off for painting. They were put on at the factory before the paint was fully cured and the paint was soft underneath. The adhesive from the foam tape ate into the paint in spots and picked it up when I removed the rail. I got some closed cell foam insulation tape from the hardware store which has adhesive only on one side. I was going to put the adhesive side on the rail side. Let pressure seal the paint side. I also had to pick up the cockpit deck. All along the edges the caulk they used ate into the paint. I had to sand the cockpit walls smooth. I want to be able to pick up the new deck without wrecking the paint so I was going to use the same type of insulation foam tape around the cockpit floor with the adhesive side toward the plywood floor. I can see using a small amount of caulk to plug leaks or even run a small bead along the top of a mounted leaky drip rail but I would stick with single sided foam tape for most applications. It is just neater. I got all different sizes. Just think what a big mess it would be if pickup caps were glued down with caulk instead of set on wide foam tape.
yooper
Posted: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 6:37:09 AM
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Location: Escanaba
I have to remove the sliding doors on my 1988 32'. They make a loud clacking sound when you close the door. Some welting fell off and the only way to replace it is to remove the doors. When they are off I can paint in that area easily. What kind of black paint did they use at the factory for the window and door trim. At first I thought it was anodized black but now I see it was primed and neatly painted. It looks like a semi-gloss or satin finish. I think I will pick up some black paint at Schilling Enamel Paint company when I go by Cleveland later this month. The blue trim paint they sold me is very nice and can be brushed sprayed or rolled and covers nice with one coat. Not so with the "rubber enamel" hull paint. It doesn't like to be rolled.

Karl,

I can't find many trailers for a 32' up here. When I get down near Port Clinton I may have time to look around for one. You gave me a lead on a company but I lost it. I really need a trailer to manage the boat. Down there there are many places tbat can pull and store the boat. Up here there is only one place nearby and the nearest hydraulic hauler is 35 miles away.
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