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Sea Turtle dashboard switches Options · View
clarko
Posted: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:02:57 AM

Rank: Dedicated Tin Star
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Joined: 12/10/2007
Posts: 68
Points: -907
Location: Lake of the Ozarks, Mo.
d'oh! The original switches for nav lites, bilge pump, etc. were the push pull type with a boxy shaped back to which the wires were plugged. I was forever leaving something on and running down the batteries. What to do? I decided to put a red light along side each switch.

Went to radio shack and saw some lighted rocker switches:d/ aha, kill two birds with one stone, use the old switch holes for new ones, no add'l drilling for lights, and as an added bonus, eliminate the boxy space using old switches. In the pic, the anchor lite switch is on.

While diddling around I decided to add an oil pressure light and buzzer (it's to the left of the tach next to the oil pressure guage. It is illuminated too. ) and while i'm at it I added a light (just to the right of the ignition sw.) so when I turn the key on it lights up. If the engine dies for some reason, its a reminder that the ig. is on. Another reminder that you have turned the key on is the oil light comes on and the buzzer sounds because until the engine is started, there is no oil pressure.

I would like to add a lite and buzzer to warn me if the engine is overheating. Unfortunatly I can't find a plug to remove from the intake manifold to install such. Anybody have any ideas? The other pics on this post show access behind the dash via the medicine cabinet in the head. since I was doing a lot of work cleaning up the spagetti behing the dash, I cut out the area below the medicine cab. for much more access.


clarko attached the following image(s):
HPIM1738.JPG
HPIM1737.JPG
HPIM1734.JPG

Sponsor
Posted: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:02:57 AM
Please Register : New members may not post until approved. An email is sent after approval. We do this to reduce those who use these forums for spamming. This forum is for Marinette Owners and other aluminum boat boaters who wish to share boating information. Aluminum Roamer owners are also welcome. (Do not post content you do not have the right to post and mass (robots) posters are unwelcome. We also have a marine electronics page and lots of Chrysler Engine info. State by what permission, you copy content and accredit properly.) The site is now fixed with some more Chrysler information. I will try to post more information soon. We have space for pictures on the new location. Use shinkpic to autochange size http://www.onthegosoft.com/sp_download.htm

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yooper
Posted: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:51:43 AM
Rank: Upper Crust Bronze Star
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Joined: 12/9/2007
Posts: 109
Points: 236
Location: Escanaba
It looks like the early models use fuse blocks instead of Airpax breakers. In later models wires connected the bathroom distribution panel to an overhead breaker switch panel. Blown fuses can be inconvenient but you can easily tailor the fuse to protect the devices not just the wiring. Do you get many blown fuses?
DiverDennis
Posted: Thursday, August 07, 2008 5:46:48 PM

Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Member , Other Mods

Joined: 12/10/2007
Posts: 310
Points: -2,143
Location: DeWitt, MI, but spend most of my time at work(LDT)
clarko wrote:
.....I would like to add a lite and buzzer to warn me if the engine is overheating. Unfortunatly I can't find a plug to remove from the intake manifold to install such. Anybody have any ideas?

We recently updated our sensors and switches too. The coolant overtemp switch was installed on the left side of the thermostat housing where the brass pipe plug was. Check out this photo from the Engine Monitor "how to" thread.

Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single Chrysler M360 ('87), Raymarine E120 MFD, HD digital sonar, GPS,
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24 volt stern thruster, Interlux Brightside paint ('06-'08) Trilux 33 on bottom,
Big Jon electric downriggers, Traxtech swivel mounts, Bert's track and ratchet holders.

Click here for all the equipment details and here for the complete photo album.
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