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Rank: Dedicated Tin Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/26/2007
Posts: 72
Points: -72
Location: Aurora, Indiana Ohio River
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I have been looking at my rear deck. The wood is not rotted. The notelex covering is scuffed and starting to peel. The rear deck leaks around seams and drains. Not to mention the bad design hatch. (The back deck looks like it has been replaced and is not original)
Well, I am about to do away with it all. Replace with aluminum tread plate and fabricate a hatch with a channel drain.
Has anyone done this?
Standard aluminum tread plate in my suppliers stock is 3003 H22. They also have 6061 but it is more expensive.
I am in fresh water is there any problem using a non marine grade alloy for this application?
If anyone has aluminum deck, is there a noticeable increase in noise transmitted from the engine space?
If you perceive that there are four possible ways in which a procedure can go wrong, and circumvent these, then a fifth way, unprepared for, will promptly develop.
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Please Register : New members may not post until approved. An email is sent after approval. We do this to reduce those who use these forums for spamming.
This forum is for Marinette Owners and other aluminum boat boaters who wish to share boating information. Aluminum Roamer owners are also welcome. (Do not post content you do not have the right to post and mass (robots) posters are unwelcome. We also have a marine electronics page and lots of Chrysler Engine info. State by what permission, you copy content and accredit properly.) The site is now fixed with some more Chrysler information. I will try to post more information soon. We have space for pictures on the new location. Use shinkpic to autochange size http://www.onthegosoft.com/sp_download.htm
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The first rule is be a class act.
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/7/2007
Posts: 394
Points: 726
Location: Central Florida and the DC area
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My rear deck is foam/fiberglass sandwich put there by a previous owner. It is permanent, and there are hatches to access the rudders and fuel fittings.
Don't do this. Make sure all the panels can be removed. I am awfully tired of hanging my 265' frame upside down through a hatch to work on stuff.
"I remember when welfare was for poor people..."
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Rank: Dedicated Tin Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/26/2007
Posts: 72
Points: -72
Location: Aurora, Indiana Ohio River
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I have not replaced my rear deck yet, but it is the next major project on the list. I am looking for any comments on the following ideas for a replacement rear deck on my 32' Sedan. 1) Replace the deck with 1/2 plywood cover with 1/8" or thicker PlasDeck. The pluses are it look very durable not too bad to install. The problem is it is expensive over $1200 for PlasDeck materials plus the wood ect. http://www.plasdeck.us/index2.htm2) Replace with bolt down aluminum plates??? Height problems to match with door sill, more noise transmission, cost. 3) Replace deck with 5/8 plywood and seal and paint with Durablak (self applied bedliner/ no skid coating). The down side will it look good?? http://www.nonslipcoating.com/4) Do an original replacement with Nautolex http://www.omnova.com/products/marineOEMUpholstery/marinedecking.aspxI also looked a King StarBoard plastic, I called the MFG and they talked me out of it because of the thermal expansion 1/32 per square foot 40 degree temp change. You would have trouble sealing, and holding down (the screw holes would have to be ova led or larger to let the product move. It is more for non constrained areas like a swim platform ect. http://www.kingstarboard.com/Products/_StarboardFamily.aspxAny ideas, suggestions or experiences? How long does a Nautolex deck last on average? Robert
If you perceive that there are four possible ways in which a procedure can go wrong, and circumvent these, then a fifth way, unprepared for, will promptly develop.
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Rank: Administration
Groups: Administration
, Member, Other Mods
Joined: 12/4/2007
Posts: 252
Points: -324
Location: Potomac MD
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RiverRatt wrote:How long does a Nautolex deck last on average? Mine is 20 years old and on its last legs but still intact. Dreading replacing it and making same choices you are deciding right now. One (expensive) possibility is Plasteak (not Plasdeck). It would last "forever" and require little maintenance. One of the guys on this board has done it. Requires some extra support. Looks first class.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 32' FBS
docked Deale, MD
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/10/2007
Posts: 185
Points: 567
Location: Lake Michigan
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My Nautalex has lasted 27 years and still looks good.
Peter
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Rank: Dedicated Tin Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/26/2007
Posts: 72
Points: -72
Location: Aurora, Indiana Ohio River
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jralbert wrote: One (expensive) possibility is Plasteak (not Plasdeck). It would last "forever" and require little maintenance. One of the guys on this board has done it. Requires some extra support. Looks first class. I reviewed the post on the PlasTeak. I dont think it is watertite. It looks like planks with a "T" slot sone type of joint between, you would have to seal between each one. I wold also check into the expansion considerations for that material also. It could shear off hardware or bow up in the heat. I agree it looks first class.
If you perceive that there are four possible ways in which a procedure can go wrong, and circumvent these, then a fifth way, unprepared for, will promptly develop.
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Rank: Administration
Groups: Administration
, Member, Other Mods
Joined: 12/4/2007
Posts: 252
Points: -324
Location: Potomac MD
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Don't want to sound like a shill for them but they also sell another product that is a solid surface that probably goes over a wood base. Check their web site. This second item is even more expensive but looks like real teak and holly. I've seen it at boat shows and it has a super appearance. Your call whether it's worth the money.
You are right about Plasteak strips, they are tongue and groove and would leak. My recollection is that they make a special sealant that would fix that. But as I noted, at least one other person has used it for their rear deck. If the photos are not here, I think you might find them on the old Marinette site
--good luck
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 32' FBS
docked Deale, MD
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Rank: Dedicated Tin Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 3/5/2008
Posts: 62
Points: -8
Location: Ketchikan, Alaska
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My deck was rotten, replaced it with Al sheet screwed down with stainless screws. Made hatches reinforced underneath with Al angle. Thought it would be slippery but it is fine. Would like to seal the hatches or have drains somehow. My hint on plastic--you do have to allow for lots of expansion, but I like to fasten the center down solid and allow the ends of the piece to float. Have half the movement on each half rather than full travel over the piece everywhere so it can move if it wants to.
--and have lots of thoughts on Sarah, bridge here, and politicians-- Ed
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Rank: Dedicated Tin Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/26/2007
Posts: 72
Points: -72
Location: Aurora, Indiana Ohio River
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It looks like I am going to replace the deck with the original Nautolex. I reviewed the post http://www.marinetteboat.com/nautolex_deck.htm. The post talked about a gutter for the hatch. Do any of the forum members have a gutter setup on their rear hatch? If so how did you do it? Robert
If you perceive that there are four possible ways in which a procedure can go wrong, and circumvent these, then a fifth way, unprepared for, will promptly develop.
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