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EDDY
Posted: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 9:38:12 AM
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Location: LAKE NORMAN NC
OK , I have a 32 ft sedan, I am the one the boat got hit by lighning and caught fire the next day.

Anyway to the point, My mechanic and insurance company BOAT US are replaceing the rudders also.

I ordered new ones from John (MARINETTE).

I told my mecahnic that they would Stainless and would not need to be painted.

He was concerned about how to bond these in.... anybody have stainless rudders and have a problem with bonding???

Thats all I lack is the rudders and then the boat is back in the water....
Sponsor
Posted: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 9:38:12 AM
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jhall767
Posted: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 11:52:19 AM

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Location: Middle River
The rudders have their own zincs and should be isolated.

John
EDDY
Posted: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 12:12:58 PM
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Location: LAKE NORMAN NC
I passed that along to my mechanic. Thanks.
jralbert
Posted: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 6:16:31 PM
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Location: Potomac MD
I am probably out of my league here but I think the shaft for the rudders has an isolating bearing just like the prop shafts. (Yes?)

Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 32' FBS
docked Deale, MD
Fastjeff
Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 10:41:40 AM

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Location: New Tripoli, PA
YES!!

Jeff

I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
jralbert
Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 2:55:22 PM
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Location: Potomac MD
Fastjeff wrote:
YES!! Jeff
So, that means Eddy that no "bonding" is required. After you install the new rudders with the proper insulated bearing, add the proper zincs to each rudder and you are back in # 1 shape.

Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 32' FBS
docked Deale, MD
EDDY
Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 3:12:34 PM
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Location: LAKE NORMAN NC
right after seeing them , I got them today ,

your correct.
Fastjeff
Posted: Saturday, September 06, 2008 6:29:37 AM

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Location: New Tripoli, PA
Don't drop the new bushing(s) in the bilge or you'll never find them again. (Don't ask!)

I have a set of loaner tools to make that job easier if you need them. See the Repair Website for details.


Jeff

I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
EDDY
Posted: Saturday, September 06, 2008 7:59:16 AM
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Joined: 5/6/2008
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Location: LAKE NORMAN NC
Thanks I appreciate the offer, but my mechanic I would think would have that stuff.

I just need to paint them and let them dry over the weekend so he can install next week.
sickleave
Posted: Saturday, September 06, 2008 4:10:13 PM
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Joined: 12/12/2007
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Location: 24855 Orchid , 48045 Harrison Twp Mi
I installed SS rudders several years ago, I just put an anode back on rudder as before. I did get a new stuffing box as old one was plastic,
new one was bronz. I do not think mine is Isolated as it is connected to steering cable. I could isolate it useing isolation washers and a smaller bolt. I have had no problem other than a low voltage on hull.
I wonder if this could be the source of low voltage. I have always had low voltage but no problem with corosion. By low voltage I mean
.6 volts Despite what every one says 1.0 is correct I have never got it higher even with adding Magnessium anodes. That gives me an idea I could pull the pins on rudders and see if reading changes. On my old rudder shafts it was pitted badly under packing seal causeing leaks under way but not at rest. Any ideas on low readings
SICK LEAVE, Bob
Roger2
Posted: Saturday, September 06, 2008 5:36:22 PM

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Joined: 12/16/2007
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Location: Petersburg, Illinois
Rudder bushings should be rubber, there should also be an insulating bushing between rudder shaft and steer arms. At least that's how my is.

Roger

The trouble with getting old, There is a lot of info in memory, I either can't find it or don't trust it if I do!
sickleave
Posted: Saturday, September 06, 2008 8:58:50 PM
Rank: Dedicated Tin Star
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Joined: 12/12/2007
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Points: 180
Location: 24855 Orchid , 48045 Harrison Twp Mi
Never had a rubber bushing, at least not since I had the boat.
SICK LEAVE, Bob
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