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TOP SIDE PAINT JOB 2007 A "how to" story with tips and tricks for a 1975 28' Express.
This all began because of the radar unit. I just couldn't bring myself to sit a shiny new radome on top of an old paint job. So it began by removing all window frames and glass, sliding window frames and glass, lights, antennas, gps, horn, trim, cabin brightwork, ceiling etc. in the fall of 2006. The trim pieces were taken to Elite Electro Coaters to be powder coated. All were coated "Ryder Wagon Red" except the fixed window frames and the air scoops were done in "Sky White". (see summary below)
While removing the window air conditioner, it was decided that it and the plastic window tracks needed to be replaced. New aluminum tracks were ordered (see "Window Track Replacement") and a roof mount Carrier low profile 13.5K BTU air conditioner will be installed.
The paint job began by using an air hammer with a chisel blade (edges rounded off to prevent gouging) to remove the areas where the paint was cracked into the fairing (a epoxy filler material). Quite a mess was created with this method of removal but it was fast. Lots of 'clean-as-you-go' was needed.
Sanded entire surfaces with new Dewalt orbital with 80 grit that was hooked up to the shop vac (dust bag installed) and 3 extra lengths of hose. Went to bare metal where the faring was taken off. (see note 1)
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These are the steps we followed as per Interlux tech:
>>where sanded to bare, sand to bare again and wipe with 202 solvent
>>etch with one thin coat of Viny-Lux Primewash. (When prepping aluminum for painting, sandblast or grind to bright metal finish, remove all blasting/grinding/sanding residues with a clean air line and vacuum clean for best results. Immediately apply Viny-Lux Primewash 353/354 thinned 25% with Viny-Lux Solvent 355.) The etch has a thin consistency and is yellow and drys fast.
>>one coat of Epoxy Primekote 404/414 within 24 hours
>>sand with 120 grit, wipe with 202
>>fair with Watertite (epoxy) where needed, mask and apply using a trowel, spatula or putty knife.
>>When the product has cured, wash with fresh water to remove amine blush, and sand with 80 grit, wipe clean (do not use 202)
All surfaces get two coats of Primekote thinned 25% with 2333N thinner, sanded with 120, wiped with 202. Then, two coats of Brightside Y4359 - White (thinned 10%) and sanded with 220 between coats.
The etching was done within hours after metal was exposed to air. Then within 24 hours, the first batch of Primekote was mixed. It goes like this: By volume 3:1 - 6 oz of 404 and 2 oz of 414. Mix thoroughly together and then allow to sit 20 minutes for induction time. After induction time thin 25% with Brush Reducer 2333N and mix thoroughly together. Mixing was done in clean plastic coffee jugs and then strained into clean roller tray. Primer was applied with foam rollers and tipped off with a brush. Tight spots had to be brush coated. Left over paint was used on the swim platform. (see note 2) After 24 hours we sanded with 120.
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Now it is time to fill in all the rough areas where the old fairing was removed from the weld seams and beads. A small batch of Watertite epoxy was mixed up and different tools experimented with to determine the best way to apply. Best results were obtained by filling a sandwich bag with the epoxy and then cutting 1/4" off one corner to use it like a cake decorating bag. I got this idea from my daughter Nicole who is a Le Cordon Blue pastry chef.
The epoxy was dispensed by squeezing the bag while tracking along the weld seam to produce a nice uniform flow. To form and shape it to the hull, a large flat washer was employed as a spreading tool. After a little practice this method produced good fill with some squeeze out along the edges. The excess was quickly removed with multiple pieces of 2" X 2" cardboard. Old hardware mounting holes were also filled at this time. After it was dry, we scrubbed it with water (to remove amine blush), cut the excess with a razor, and sanded. This created bare spots (again) adjacent to the fairing lines that were touched up with a coating of etch, primed, and sanded. After a light sanding the entrie boat and trim peices were wiped down with 202, and primed. With good lighting, It's easy to see where you've been because the primer is a bright white and the sanded areas are dull.
Over the next two days, all were sanded with 120, wiped with 202, and another coat of primer was put on areas where metal was bared and etched. The next day, all was sanded with 220, and wiped 202.
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Finally we are now ready to paint with Brightside. Brightside only has to be thinned with 333 so it was nice not to have to mix, wait 20 min, thin, mix. The rollers and brushes were cleaned with 333 and spun dry with the spinner. The first coat was thinned 10% and applied the with the same tools as was the primer. The roller creates tons of bubbles but the follow up brushing knocks them down. The thinner paint makes the brush lines dissappear but also makes it easier to create sags and runs.
We started with the hard top port and worked fore and aft and tried to keep a wet edge while tipping off. It's kind of hard to reach the middle with the brush but a 6ft ladder on the cockpit floor made it possible. Be careful not to leave skid marks with the ladder.
Between coats of Brightside, sanding was done with 220 to get rid of the "no-see-ems" and then wiped with 333 just before laying down the final coat. No matter how hard you try to keep foreign particles out of the mix, you will always have it. I kept telling the Admiral, "We are not building a piano."
Reinstaled the rain gutters and the fixed windows using 1/2" wide, 1/16" thick, closed cell foam tape to keep the water out. Installed the radar, gps, horn, anchor light, grab rails, windshield openers, air scoop panels, antenna mounts, brightwork, and the rest of the trim. Put the ceiling panels up, installed the AC ceiling kit, flip down color monitor, and new dvd player. Since all the removeable parts and pieces were taken off and refurbished, this shall be a once in a lifetime chore. Whew.
Next year we'll be doing The deck and railings.
Powder coating summary: 49 pieces total. The fixed window frames (6) and air scoop panels (2) were done 'Sky White' and the trim stuff 'Ryder Wagon Red'. TRIM STUFF: Name plate panels (the 2 four foot pieces that mount on the air scoop panels), air scoop bottom trim (2), grab rails and end caps (12), window opener and end caps (10), gunnel top trim (2 long and curvy), rain gutters (2 @ 11' 6" ea), hard top trim (2), sun deck trim (1), cockpit window sill plates (2), foot rest brackets (4), and entry grab handles (2).
Total price: $135 (includes sand blasting all parts).
Notes:
(1) The bare areas included: below rain gutter to top of air scoop line (this curved area was badly cracked), windshield facing and posts, front window facing and posts, most of the curved sides of the hard top and the sun deck were bare too.
(2) Swim platform was sanded to bare and immediately coated with Primekote. No etch was used. This will be a experiment to see how long and how well it adheres. 2 coats of primer with no sanding between. 2 coats of Brightside no sanding. Final coat used no-slip compound mixed into paint that produced a slightly rough finish.
Click here for BEFORE PICTURES Click here for AFTER PICTURESrevised 7/22/08 Surface Interval 1975 28' Express, Single M360 Specs: http://www.boatm8.com/my...amp;page=boats&arr=0
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