This photo shows the top half of the springs attached to the newly formed steel rod edging. Notice the springs in positions 1-8
Spring 1 is on top of its neighbor in the 12:00 o'clock position.
Spring 2 is right next to the spring at the 12:00 o'clock position.
Spring 3 has what looks like 1 inch to 1 ½ of space from it’s12:00 o'clock neighbor.
Spring 4 looks like 2” away from it’s 12:00 neighbor.
Springs 5,6,7,8 repeat the positions of springs 1234.
This readjustment of the edge springs, smoothes out the stair step edge we got from the cutting away of extra springs.
The springs were reattached to the steel rod edging with the original metal clips using the “F” connector pliers.
Do the same thing to the upper steel rod edging.
I didn't say anything about those tough wire "pig tails" They are no real problem, you just unwind them and rewind them onto the springs you want to move. Now "unwind" is not "untwist" the pig tail springs. To wind them you just place your mattress spring top ring between the pig tail coils and wind the pig tail spring around the mattress spring. It's easy BUT the "pig tail" can't be too long so trim them to just the length you need before you begin to wind. Wind 3 times around every mattress spring. CAUTION when you cut the pig tails you will create a sharp edge. These edges will cut your hands so be careful.
This photograph shows how easy it is to attach 2 springs together. Just wind a piece of pig tail wire at the junction of two springs. You cut a piece of wire and just like turning a bolt onto a screw, screw the wire over the spot where you want to join the springs. Bend down the sharp edge and you're done!
Cutting the steel edge rod requires you to join it together again. I considered several options including welding but each had it’s own disadvantages. My solution was to get a piece of 1/4 “ O.D. refrigeration grade, copper tubing. I found this at Home Depot. The interior dimension of the tubing fit the steel edge rod perfectly.
So I cut a small piece, mixed up some epoxy, slipped it over the cut rod and let the epoxy do the rest. It’s easy, clean and works great.
This photo shows the "F" connector pliers and the small clips that hold the springs to the edge rod.
Here is a photograph of me using the F connector pliers to compress the metal clip that holds the spring onto the steel edge rod.
I used 2 pipe wrenches to bend the steel edge rod. I was easy to do, and placed no stress on the rest of the mattress.
This photo shows us trimming away the excess mattress material.
This shows the simple shuttle that I made from the lower half of a child's shopping cart toy. Any simple platform with wheels will work, the idea is to get the sewing machine up on an angle so that you can reach the area you need to sew. The sewing machine was placed on this shuttle and I was able to move the sewing machine along, sewing the 3 seams that I needed before I hand stitched the top and sides together.
Notice the mattress is also on an angle and supported by plastic clamps. This made moving the sewing machine along easier. Sandi sewed the fabric into the machine while I moved it along the seam. It was a a quick job once we get everything set up.
Three things to remember:
1. Sew down the length of the open seam top (sleeping side) of the mattress to bind the edge against unraveling. Mark your edge first, have extra material so that your sewing machine foot has plenty of room, then trim your top to the finished seam edge.
2 Sew down the length of the open seam top about 1" from the bound edge. This seam attaches the "Tyvec" like material to the top, this material is then attached to the steal edge rod with plastic wire ties.
3 Sew together the side panel of the mattress, the bottom and include the white bindery edge tape to finish the bottom. I was able to sew all but just a few inches of the bottom seam, I completed the bottom sewing by hand.
http://theboaters.com/boats/Powerboat/Classic_/_Antique/Marinette/express/1964/MHYZHENOne more busted knuckle and i'll have a complete set !
