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SAGA UPDATE: "...the yard mechanic ran a silicone bead (so very simple) and that increased water flow..."
Just got back from inspecting the repair job. As reported, the mechanic sealed the strainer on top and inside with silicone. Flow was increased, but only a little. No serious smoke coming from tailpipe but the flow still isn't what it should be..it's about half the output of the other engine, so air still is encroaching somewhere and my instinct is that it's in the strainer area. hhhmmm
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 32' FBS
docked Deale, MD
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Joel, Glad to hear U R making head way on that haunting problem they sure can be a pain at times trying to track down the cause.  Well good luck & keep us informed on the outcome & solution  Norm, Big  s Live On 
KEEP YOUR BUTTS DRY &YOUR HOOKS WET. (also your whistle)
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For testing purposes only, why not remove the suspected strainer from the loop? Put in a short piece of pipe and clamp it tight.
Not saying you should go underway like that, but even the odds of picking up anything damaging would be remote... Rarely find anything other than algae in there anyway.
John
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If there is reduced flow, it can also be caused by impeller ears that are torn or broken off and/or lodged in the exit chamber of the water pump. If you can see less flow visually, it is unlikely due to an air leak at the strainer, or you would see the strainer is not full.
Paul
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John: great idea about taking the strainer out of the circuit
Paul: That may be one of the places to look. The strainer is NOT full and that's why air was/is a suspect. At the moment, it's pretty well sealed with silicone.
When I pour a bucket of water into the strainer, it is sucked up right away. That's why I haven't leaned toward the water pump as the bad guy here. Why would it suck up the water quickly when it's poured in from bucket (or hose)? I think it's because for a brief moment, the entire strainer is full and air is shut out by the strainer being full of water.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 32' FBS
docked Deale, MD
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One thing that I would worry about, is silicone, floating around in the engine and cooling components. I'd be afraid of that stuff gumming up the works.
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John: thanx for the flag on the silicone. As I winterized ystdy (with relief, this year), I worked carefully with the silicone to make sure none of it got loose to be pulled into the cooling system. Luckily, it was mostly around the top edge of the clear strainer top and on the gasket itself, so it came up cleanly.
I happened to see the mechanic who worked on troubleshooting the low water flow and who applied the silicone. His opinion is that the water pump is faulty and should be replaced. We only had a moment to talk but he said that when he pulled the hose on top of the water pump and poured water in, the level dropped but should have remained constant. That puzzles me; where would that water be going? As, I noted, we only talked for a few seconds.
He also noted that the impeller had all of its blades intact. He could see that as he bumped the starter.
Anyone have a spare water pump they want to sell?
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 32' FBS
docked Deale, MD
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..."he said that when he pulled the hose on top of the water pump and poured water in, the level dropped but should have remained constant. That puzzles me; where would that water be going? "
Back into the river! A stationary impeller should not allow water to flow through it, so that's your problem, buddy.
Jeff
I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
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Fastjeff wrote:A stationary impeller should not allow water to flow through it, so that's your problem, buddy.Jeff So..the solution is...? new pump/impeller/river? (it was really sad ystdy...perfect fall day. No chance to get the boat out because we were busy winterizing. At the very end of the day, a guy breezes on by, ties up, and shows off three beautiful striped bass and one very unusual - for this time of year - large bluefish! I was to put it mildly, jealous)
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 32' FBS
docked Deale, MD
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Joel:
Probably the pump body will need rebuilding. Never done this myself (yet) but I believe rebuild kits are available. Then again, you might simply have a bad (or wrong type) impeller in there--they make several sizes, and yours 'miht' be the wrong oen.
Good luck!
Jeff
I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
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I've rebuilt my 1966 pump..
There were the impellers, face plates, and the all important cups that the impellers sit in. After managing to get the long bolts that hold it all together out and splitting the pump casing the hardest task was to get those dam cups out. Had to take it to a buddy with a milling machine who managed to mill out just a nip on the side of the cups and then a chisel could fold the sides in to the middle and the cup extracted.
"LIFE is what happens to you, while your making other plans."
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Fastjeff wrote:you might simply have a bad (or wrong type) impeller in there. Jeff Thnx for the good wishes. The impeller is the same one as the other engine, the same one that worked well last year. At the time he installed the impeller last year, I recall the mechanic cautioning that there was a bit too much play in the port engine pump and that it might have to be replaced this year. He could have been on the mark. I will look for pump sources - my buddies have no milling machines.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 32' FBS
docked Deale, MD
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