HOW TO REFURBISH YOUR FIXED WINDOWS

During the "Top Side Paint Job" back in 2007 the Admiral and I decided to completely redo the six windows and frames (windshields, cockpit windows, and cabin). The vinyl glazing had become cracked and brittle and the two triangle windows in the cockpit were covered with a black vinyl film that had seen it's better days. They will look sharp after 'sky white' powder coating and new glazing.

First the frames were removed from the boat and labeled. They came out REAL HARD because the grey double sided polyurethene tape used to seal them was more like cement. Had to use a hammer, wood chistle, and wedges while trying not to crack the glass. Got lucky, no cracks. Then the glazing and glass were removed from each frame. Each piece of glass was labeled with location and orientation. The old silicone was shaved off with a razor and cleaned with solvent. Used Jasco paint stripper, a putty knife, and a green scothbrite to get the black film off the cockpit frames. The electro coater would finish the job with sandblasting.

When the frames were back from the electro coater, the glass was laid in and checked for proper orientation and fit. Then, using a cordless caulk gun, a 1/4" bead of marine grade silicone was applied to the frame and the glass was set in and pressed down firmly along the edges to squeeze the silicone around. Wooden wedges (clothes pins worked great) were employed to keep pressure against the glass along the edge and soft scuba dive weights on top. The silicone was allowed to dry for 24 hours.

Tried to find the original vinyl glazing but had no luck. Decided to use Dow Corning® Contractor's Weatherproofing Sealant (CWS) as a substitute. To make a nice clean bead, the window and frame were masked off with blue painters tape (see photos). The cordless caulk gun made the glazing task a breeze. Removed the masking tape immediately after glazing. Taking the tape off allowed the edge of the bead to lay down smooth.

The CWS was allowed to cure for a week before reinstalling the frames on the boat. Used 3/4" inch wide, 1 1/16" thick 3M double coated polyethylene foam tape between the frames and the boat to seal out water. Laid the foam tape onto the frames and used an awl to make the holes for each screw location.

Carefully placed the windows against the opening and pushed a small drift pin into one of the top screw holes to locate it. Started a couple of screws on the bottom egde to set the proper location and still allow a gap. It is necessary to have clearance between the frame and boat to remove the paper backing. Began pulling the paper off the tape and inserting every other screw. Used 3M 4200 sealant on all the screws.

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