|
|
Rank: New Poster
Groups: Member
Joined: 5/19/2008
Posts: 1
Points: 3
Location: Eagan MN
|
I apologize in advance for the vague subject line. As I read the following I realize it may be difficult to follow, please feel free to ask for clarification, no offense will be taken.
I need to know if the bump in the deck just above the rubrail on a 41 Marinette is solid or not. This bump up is to assist in the channeling of water on the deck to the rear of the boat. The problem I am having is that the water does not fully drain from this channel and I have about 6 inches of water about 1/8" deep that accumulates on the boat on a daily basis. It is on the NE side of the boat and the sun does not get there at all to dry it out. The water has accumulated at the extreme rear of the boat and has lifted up Awlgrip paint. Awlgrip rep claims this is an issue because Alwgrip top side paint is not designed to be under water. I need to get this water to drain out fully.
I was planning to cut a small kerf in this bump to allow the water to fully drain out. I need to know if any one knows if this bump is solid or not. If I cut the kerf and bump is not solid then I will need to fix the cut and then go to plan 2.
Plan 2 was to put a small drain hole in the deck and route it to the hull to drain over board. I am not sure of the access to this area from the inside. I have already removed the failed Alwgrip paint and need to repaint this area. I was thinking about a 1/8 inch drain hole.
I would also appreciate any information any may have on this and additionally if anyone has addressed this issue in some other manner.
Thanks in advance
Dan
|
|
|
|
Please Register : New members may not post until approved. An email is sent after approval. We do this to reduce those who use these forums for spamming.
This forum is for Marinette Owners and other aluminum boat boaters who wish to share boating information. Aluminum Roamer owners are also welcome. (Do not post content you do not have the right to post and mass (robots) posters are unwelcome. We also have a marine electronics page and lots of Chrysler Engine info. State by what permission, you copy content and accredit properly.) The site is now fixed with some more Chrysler information. I will try to post more information soon. We have space for pictures on the new location. Use shinkpic to autochange size http://www.onthegosoft.com/sp_download.htm
Great Sites - http://www.marinette.com Marinette Company
http://www.geocities.com/dougmrose/ Wiring Marinette
http://fastjeff.tripod.com/ Repair Tricks and Techniques for Marinettes
http://www.greatlakesmarinetteclub.com/
PLEASE post in the appropriate folder. Please, do not post your actual email address in publicly readable websites.
The first rule is be a class act.
|
|
Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Administration
, Member
Joined: 12/4/2007
Posts: 600
Points: -1,656
Location: White Lake MI. or on my BOAT
|
Minn.Dan, I’m not positive but I’d say it would be a solid piece of 1/2 round stock  ahh it just came to me take the smallest drill U own say a 1/16" & drill thru depth of the round where U plan on cutting the kerf but not the deck U’ll soon find out if it’s hollow or not.  If & when U do this chore how about letting the rest of the forum know the out come  so we don't have to do this Norm, Big  s Live On 
KEEP YOUR BUTTS DRY &YOUR HOOKS WET. (also your whistle)
|
|
Rank: New Poster
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/25/2007
Posts: 3
Points: 9
Location: Chicago, IL.
|
Dan,
We have the same problem on our 39. The bump you speak of is not solid, it is a extrusion and you would probably cut through it before you could get all of the water to drain. There is a cross section of the hull in one of the brochures on this site that shows it. I was thinking of raising the area by fairing it forward far enough to allow the water to run over the top of the bump.
I can email you the picture if you can't find it.
Rob
|
|
Rank: Member - Wooden Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/15/2007
Posts: 23
Points: 69
Location: Lake Cumberland
|
For just this small area, consider using a different paint that can be kept underwater - epoxy bottom paints are designed for this.
|
|
Rank: Dedicated Tin Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/10/2007
Posts: 68
Points: -907
Location: Lake of the Ozarks, Mo.
|
click on "search" in the logged in as: line and then type in "old Marinette brochures". There is a whole pot full of brochures that I and several others put on there. Scroll down, waaay down and you will come to pictures of construction of the hull. It shows the extrusions. The bump or gun'l is hollow and the deck slides into it on one side and the hull slides into it on the other. If you drill or cut the bump it will drain directly into the hull. It is always interesting to look at all the brochures and see the different layouts.
|
|
Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/9/2007
Posts: 160
Points: -660
Location: Hixson, TN
|
I almost didn't find this post this evening.... I was rooting around on my boat a bit earlier and found a couple of cross-sections of hull construction laying in the bilge area under the forward bunk. I guess these were used as sales tools back in the day to provide some detail on construction. Just a guess. I took a couple of quick photos. Will try to get some better ones later. This cross section of the extrusion with deck and side pieces welded in should answer the question concerning what is under the 'bump' on the deck. The other cross-section appears to be the keel. John B.
Goldpoint attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/16/2007
Posts: 172
Points: 449
Location: Petersburg, Illinois
|
John,
Nice post! I've seen that in drawings but it's good to see the actual material.
Roger
The trouble with getting old, There is a lot of info in memory, I either can't find it or don't trust it if I do!
|
|
Rank: Upper Crust Bronze Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/7/2007
Posts: 125
Points: 161
Location: Alpena, Michigan
|
Awesome photos! When I sanded the deck to raw aluminum it looked to me that my had a red rubber between the deck and the upper part of the extrusions U. This coud have just been a thick primer coat but the only place I found it was near the rub rail. Either way it would seem that welding eiher side would have cooked either material away.
" LIFE is what happens to you, while your making other plans."
|
|
Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/10/2007
Posts: 185
Points: 567
Location: Lake Michigan
|
Wow. No wonder these boats are so solid. These interlocking Marinette extrusions are amazing. They tie the two halves of the hull and the deck and gunwales together and provide a continuous interlocked and welded connection, not just where a screw would be like on a typical fiberglass seam.
Peter
|
|
Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Member
, Other Mods
Joined: 12/10/2007
Posts: 310
Points: -2,143
Location: DeWitt, MI, but spend most of my time at work(LDT)
|
Goldpoint wrote:...will try to get some better ones later. John B. Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures. They are like Xrays.
 Surface Interval 1975 28' Express, Single Chrysler M360 ('87), Raymarine E120 MFD, HD digital sonar, GPS,
4KW radome, S1G AST autopilot, SIRIUS satellite weather, Floscan 9000, 25HP Mercury kicker,
24 volt stern thruster, Interlux Brightside paint ('06-'08) Trilux 33 on bottom,
Big Jon electric downriggers, Traxtech swivel mounts, Bert's track and ratchet holders. Click here for all the equipment details and here for the complete photo album.
|
|
Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/9/2007
Posts: 160
Points: -660
Location: Hixson, TN
|
A few more photos of those two extrusions that are a bit better. Looks like the smaller cross-section is the extrusion used to join the bottom to the side. Note the difference in metal thickness of the plates. Goldpoint
Goldpoint attached the following image(s):
|
|
Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Administration
, Member
Joined: 12/5/2007
Posts: 981
Points: 1,793
Location: New Tripoli, PA
|
Now, that photo I can understand. The other ones are still confusing.
Thanks for posting!
Jeff
I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
|
|
Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/16/2007
Posts: 172
Points: 449
Location: Petersburg, Illinois
|
Good job on the photos
Roger
The trouble with getting old, There is a lot of info in memory, I either can't find it or don't trust it if I do!
|
|
Rank: Upper Crust Bronze Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/7/2007
Posts: 125
Points: 161
Location: Alpena, Michigan
|
Yes...great!
Norm dosen't even need his quad-focal glasses.
My topside deck was not welded though. I've got that red rubber stuff on top and too much black crap underneath to tell if it was welded there. Maybe it's just JB Welded together...
"LIFE is what happens to you, while your making other plans."
|
|
Rank: New Poster
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/21/2008
Posts: 6
Points: -129
Location: Aston, PA
|
I found this while surfing for Big info thought it might help. Killer extrusions, fairly heavy plating and all welded... no wonder they are TOUGH! Fenders?? We dont need no stinking fenders!
Jazman attached the following image(s):
1975 37' FB Sedan
Sleepless Knights
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 7/27/2008
Posts: 23
Points: -28
Location: louisville ,ky
|
drilling a hole will cure the problem of the water standing i to have this on my 32 but the hole needs to be big enough so that it does not clog up with just normal dust and lint the drain holes in the front of the 32 look like 1/4 but they still clog with dirt and spiders, if you do put a hole in it make it big enough for like a #3 an fitting x 1/8 npt and put the fitting up from the bottom to flush off with top skin with a little piece of screen in it and then you could plum it to any drain you wanted fitting woud be 1/8 npt male by #3 an male (3/16) and also would be aluminum
mark
|
|
|
Guest2 |
