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Rank: Upper Crust Bronze Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/7/2007
Posts: 125
Points: 161
Location: Alpena, Michigan
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What size hose do you need?
I found some 1 7/8" for my exhaust but it wasn't easy.
The local marina ordered it for me and still has some extra left.
"LIFE is what happens to you, while your making other plans."
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Administration
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Joined: 12/5/2007
Posts: 981
Points: 1,793
Location: New Tripoli, PA
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..."The old shaft is pretty well pitted...."
That's because it was not isolated.
A good machine shop can cut a new keyway for the coupler end.
Jeff
I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/5/2007
Posts: 981
Points: 1,793
Location: New Tripoli, PA
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A machine shop can cut a new keyway opposite the original and you'll be all set--as long as the shaft is straight. If not, get it straightened or buy a new one. A crooked shaft wrecks all kinds of parts.
Jeff
I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 10/17/2008
Posts: 29
Points: 87
Location: Gainesboro, TN
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I have a new shaft ready to install - my question is, should I hunt for brass keystock for the prop end? Computer Joe - I think I have the hose thing figured out(see above pics)
JIm
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/4/2007
Posts: 600
Points: -1,656
Location: White Lake MI. or on my BOAT
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Jim, Defiantly!!! Norm, Big  s Live On 
KEEP YOUR BUTTS DRY &YOUR HOOKS WET. (also your whistle)
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 10/17/2008
Posts: 29
Points: 87
Location: Gainesboro, TN
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The isolators I received will not fit my coupler. The OD of the shoulders on the spacer are larger than the ID of the holes in the coupler and the insulating washers OD will not let them fit the holes in the coupler. Will contact Marinette.com to see if John has a solution. How long will it take the new shaft to rot without isolation(I'm 74yrs old....)? Jim
trontek attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/5/2007
Posts: 981
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Location: New Tripoli, PA
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Only 74? A spring chicken compared to one of our members.
No sense letting the hull to to pot for nothing. You can either drill out the holes in the coupler so the spacer fits, or grind off the protrusions (and use nylon tubes and faltwashers to isolate the parts). I have one each on mine. I'd recommend drilling the coupler out--much easier that way.
Jeff (only 65--a young punk)
I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 10/17/2008
Posts: 29
Points: 87
Location: Gainesboro, TN
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Enlarged the four holes & dimpled the shaft. The shaft goes on and off by hand but does not wobble - should I french fit of try for new coupler? My engine is a Commander Ford w/a velvet drive gearbox. I wonder why the isolator John sent me didn't fit....the boat is a 1965 Fisherman.
Jim
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Rank: Dedicated Tin Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/26/2007
Posts: 72
Points: -72
Location: Aurora, Indiana Ohio River
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Junk the old school isolator and get a Globe drive saver. http://www.henrysmith.com/globedrivesavers.htmThe isolation is not to protect the shaft. It is to protect the hull from electrolysis. Electrolysis can go quick depending on hull paint, hull protection, and water conditions (dissolved salts ect).
If you perceive that there are four possible ways in which a procedure can go wrong, and circumvent these, then a fifth way, unprepared for, will promptly develop.
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Posts: 981
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Location: New Tripoli, PA
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From the looks of that spacer, the normal isolator does the same thing.
Jeff
I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 10/17/2008
Posts: 29
Points: 87
Location: Gainesboro, TN
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Gotta get 1/4" longer bolts for the coupler since it was put together with no isolation before. GFO stuffing box packing in today(the pvc snapped over the shaft helped immensly[forgot who to thank], $105.00 trued and buffed 4 blade prop back on hopefully tomorrow(IF I can find some 1/4"x 1/4" brass keystock....).
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/4/2007
Posts: 600
Points: -1,656
Location: White Lake MI. or on my BOAT
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Jim, Have U tried Napa for the 1/4" key stock. Are u sure it’s 1/4"? the key stock on mine are 5/16" & my props are 3 bladed. May I suggest one other thing before u install the props I just learnt this last season. First clean the shaft & prop tapers well then take a dab of graphite lapping compound not much put it the shaft taper than without the key spin the prop back & forth on the shaft this will help seat the tapers. To see the difference after the first step of just cleaning place the prop on the shaft as far back as it’ll go so U don’t need a puller to get it off & take a measurement them precede with the above lapping after cleaning off the compound with the same amount of pressure U use to test the set on the un-lapped shaft & prop take another measurement. Bet U say wow. I got near a 1/16" more set. If U don’t believe me ask your prop guy. Norm, Big s Live On =d>
KEEP YOUR BUTTS DRY &YOUR HOOKS WET. (also your whistle)
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Posts: 981
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Location: New Tripoli, PA
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Lapping it in with valve grinding compound is a DAMN GOOD idea! Hydroplane racers do that with the flywheel to shaft fit. Keeps them from shearing keys.
Good one Norm!
Jeff
I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 10/17/2008
Posts: 29
Points: 87
Location: Gainesboro, TN
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Found the keystock and longer bolts today. After trying all the hardware stores and machine shops - found a boat shop with it(the same shop I called by phone at the very start of the search and was told they had steel but not brass). Will certainly follow the lapping advice.
Thanks,
Jim
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Administration
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Joined: 12/4/2007
Posts: 600
Points: -1,656
Location: White Lake MI. or on my BOAT
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Jim, Hope U bought a couple extra  seems like they're scarce in that neck the woods  Big s Live On
KEEP YOUR BUTTS DRY &YOUR HOOKS WET. (also your whistle)
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/16/2007
Posts: 172
Points: 449
Location: Petersburg, Illinois
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If all else fails, one can get brass key stock @ WWGranger, but they only like to sell to business.
Roger
The trouble with getting old, There is a lot of info in memory, I either can't find it or don't trust it if I do!
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Posts: 394
Points: 726
Location: Central Florida and the DC area
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You can get brass key stock from www.mcmaster.com. Unlike Granger, they are happy to sell to anybody.
"I remember when welfare was for poor people..."
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 10/17/2008
Posts: 29
Points: 87
Location: Gainesboro, TN
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went to put in today but forgot to install rudder zincs - which prompts another question. I read to not mix zinc & magnesium. The current ones are approximately 3" x 6" rectangles and look good. The ones on the rudder were round and almost completely eaten away. Is there a way to tell what the material of the 3x6's is? I was gonna try to get by with just changing the shaft and rudder ones - but maybe not. The ones John send me are about 1" width strips and will require drilling. The new shaft anode(misnomer, I think it is a cathode....) is magnesium. John advised that the ones he shipped were for both salt AND fresh water. I'm in a quandry....
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/4/2007
Posts: 600
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Location: White Lake MI. or on my BOAT
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If I’m not mistaking if U make a little pile of shavings & they’re magnesium add a flame to the pile they should flare up like gun powder wear safety glasses may be one of our scientist can confirm this theory  Norm, Big s Live On
KEEP YOUR BUTTS DRY &YOUR HOOKS WET. (also your whistle)
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/5/2007
Posts: 981
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Location: New Tripoli, PA
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Seeing you're in fresh water, I'd go for the magnesium. I have BOTH the usual Marinette load of SeaAlloy anodes AND a block of mag bolted atop one trim tab. Get 0.90 volts all year long, year after year.
Jeff
PS: Your rudder anode is probably a garden variety zinc item.
I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
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