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ComputerJoe
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 6:23:49 AM

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Location: Alpena, Michigan
This item came out of the area near the engine. Most of the electrical wiring was disconnected and it was hanging from a wire which I didn't trace back. Wish I had but there it is...about 3" long, stainless screen, an open air filiment internally.
Is it a fuse, a heating element, what is the darn thing!








"LIFE is what happens to you, while your making other plans."
Sponsor
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 6:23:49 AM
Please Register : New members may not post until approved. An email is sent after approval. We do this to reduce those who use these forums for spamming. This forum is for Marinette Owners and other aluminum boat boaters who wish to share boating information. Aluminum Roamer owners are also welcome. (Do not post content you do not have the right to post and mass (robots) posters are unwelcome. We also have a marine electronics page and lots of Chrysler Engine info. State by what permission, you copy content and accredit properly.) The site is now fixed with some more Chrysler information. I will try to post more information soon. We have space for pictures on the new location. Use shinkpic to autochange size http://www.onthegosoft.com/sp_download.htm

Great Sites - http://www.marinette.com Marinette Company http://www.geocities.com/dougmrose/ Wiring Marinette http://fastjeff.tripod.com/ Repair Tricks and Techniques for Marinettes http://www.greatlakesmarinetteclub.com/

PLEASE post in the appropriate folder. Please, do not post your actual email address in publicly readable websites. The first rule is be a class act.

Pfhlaw
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 6:59:19 AM

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Location: Lake Michigan
It looks like either a quartz heater or an ozone generator.

Peter
old32
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 9:16:49 AM

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it may be a gas fume sensor.



tim

72 32' express
"http://www.theboaters.com/boats/Powerboat_Express_Cruiser_marinette_1972_anticipation"
DiverDennis
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 1:45:45 PM

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Location: DeWitt, MI, but spend most of my time at work(LDT)
Are there any markings on it? Manufacturer?

Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single Chrysler M360 ('87), Raymarine E120 MFD, HD digital sonar, GPS,
4KW radome, S1G AST autopilot, SIRIUS satellite weather, Floscan 9000, 25HP Mercury kicker,
24 volt stern thruster, Interlux Brightside paint ('06-'08) Trilux 33 on bottom,
Big Jon electric downriggers, Traxtech swivel mounts, Bert's track and ratchet holders.

Click here for all the equipment details and here for the complete photo album.
jralbert
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 2:05:24 PM
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Joined: 12/4/2007
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Location: Potomac MD
is it still ticking?

Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 32' FBS
docked Deale, MD
Fastjeff
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 3:20:01 PM

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Location: New Tripoli, PA
Good one, Joel!

Jeff

I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
GB49
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 7:28:45 PM

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Back in the day those old Chrysler's worked on the heterodyne principle by mixing oscillating waveforms. Improved performance and economy. That is a photo of an octal-base thermionic valve. Whistle Liar Whistle Liar Whistle Liar Whistle Liar


Actually looks like something I wouldn't want running in my engine room.

Though, I guess the screen makes it ignition protected. Eh?

-Karl

1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
DiverDennis
Posted: Monday, December 01, 2008 7:34:06 PM

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Location: DeWitt, MI, but spend most of my time at work(LDT)
GB49 wrote:
Back in the day those old Chrysler's worked on the heterodyne principle by mixing oscillating waveforms.
Improved performance and economy. That is a photo of an octal-base thermionic valve...

Good one Karl.

Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single Chrysler M360 ('87), Raymarine E120 MFD, HD digital sonar, GPS,
4KW radome, S1G AST autopilot, SIRIUS satellite weather, Floscan 9000, 25HP Mercury kicker,
24 volt stern thruster, Interlux Brightside paint ('06-'08) Trilux 33 on bottom,
Big Jon electric downriggers, Traxtech swivel mounts, Bert's track and ratchet holders.

Click here for all the equipment details and here for the complete photo album.
Fastjeff
Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 3:06:28 AM

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Narw, It's obviuously a super synchatron.

Jeff

I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
ComputerJoe
Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 7:28:43 AM

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Location: Alpena, Michigan
No manufacturer name.

It kind of looked like a fuse element but its glass tube was intentionally open to the atmosphere.

First thought was it had something to do with the CAPAC system.
Second thought it was a heater, but it is so small it couldn't heat much of anything.
Third thought maybe if gas fumes were below decks and entered the mesh chamber the element might ignite them and in the process burn itself out and cause a warning light of some kind or disable the engine????



I like the idea of a thermionic valve, maybe I can pull one out of my Bogen amp, but Jeff might be closer with the super syncatron idea.

The best thing is...I've got one and you guys don't! Chock one up for me :d/

"LIFE is what happens to you, while your making other plans."
Ed
Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 9:58:53 AM
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Location: Ketchikan, Alaska
It's ..........extra!
Docsnow
Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 10:06:56 AM

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Location: White Lake MI. or on my BOAT
CJ,

I Guess it’s better to have one of something or another than nothing at all Whistle  U sure that ain’t a fish tank warmer for that Mermaid Think & the P/O just took the mermaid & sold U the boat check your sales disclosure statement U may of been had d'oh!


Norm,

BigBigMs Live On Applause

KEEP YOUR BUTTS DRY &YOUR HOOKS WET. (also your whistle)
dougrose
Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 7:10:16 AM

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fume detectors work by running a hot filament inside a wire mesh cage. when there are combustable fumes inside the cage, they burn and the detector trips on the extra heat. the wire cage keeps the flame from spreading to the air outside the sensor.

"I remember when welfare was for poor people..."
Fastjeff
Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 9:23:00 AM

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I wish I didn't know that, Doug!

Jeff

I'm STILL waiting for my bailout!
ComputerJoe
Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 9:35:59 AM

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Location: Alpena, Michigan
dougrose wrote:
fume detectors work by running a hot filament inside a wire mesh cage. when there are combustable fumes inside the cage, they burn and the detector trips on the extra heat. the wire cage keeps the flame from spreading to the air outside the sensor.


I do believe you hit it on the head. I had no idea how fume dectors work...my wife always tells me when I have that problem and I will not even attempt to try and figure out how a women works.

Thanks for all the helpfull sugestions and a few laughs to boot.

"LIFE is what happens to you, while your making other plans."
jsimanella
Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 9:58:12 AM

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I'd put a little power to it, just to see what happens. First try 12v, then 120v, then hit it with 240v, just to be sure it's really dead.

Always worked for me, as a kid ;)
SORRYDOG2
Posted: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 7:31:32 PM

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Location: JACKSONVILLE,FL.
YOU GUYS DONT KNOW WHAT THAT IS!!! ITS A FLORIDA MOSQUITO/BUG ZAPPER!!!! Sorrydog
ComputerJoe
Posted: Thursday, December 04, 2008 6:04:28 AM

Rank: Upper Crust Bronze Star
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Location: Alpena, Michigan
jsimanella wrote:
I'd put a little power to it, just to see what happens. First try 12v, then 120v, then hit it with 240v, just to be sure it's really dead.

Always worked for me, as a kid ;)


The filament is broke!
I was wondering what irreplaceable component it might be before disguarding it.

Thanks anyway

"Florida Bug Zapper!"
Hell you guys use shotguns don't you? Is there a bag limit?
Thanks very much for reminding me of another reason to enjoy the hard water season up here.


"LIFE is what happens to you, while your making other plans."
jsimanella
Posted: Thursday, December 04, 2008 12:17:30 PM

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Location: Cleveland, OH
If that's the case, then you may need to start with 240v out of the gate. I'd apply that to the primary side of an automotive coil (a spare would do), then attach your unit to the secondary side.

Try all of that and report back on your findings.

John, the electrician.
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