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How to install an underwater thru hull
RiverRatt
#1 Posted : Tuesday, April 21, 2009 5:42:54 AM(UTC)
RiverRatt

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How to install an underwater thru hull

I had to add a thru hull for my air conditioner water intake. As most of you know, brass or bronze is out of the question without isolation. I researched and a company makes a composite plastic that equals or outperforms brass, called Marelon by Forespar. Forespar sells direct, the marine stores that carried only thru hull and valves they did not carry the seacock valve. I installed a 93 series valve with an anti-venturi design.

http://www.forespar.com/

http://www.forespar.com/...bleOfContents2009.shtml


Marelon® is a proprietary formulation of polymar composite compounds using DuPont resins and additives to produce a superior marine-grade product.
• For use above and below the waterline
• Precision molded plumbing systems
• Complete freedom from corrosion
• U.L. and A.B.Y.C. approved
• Forespar "93" series valves and thru-hull fittings meet all design criteria and exceed all mechanical property requirements specified by the International Standards Organization


1- Pick location, clear trailer (if used), back enough form the bow so it will not come out of water, away form beams, ect..
2- Drill hole to proper size
(Hint on using hole saw: Drill pilot hole, replace pilot drill in hole saw with 1/4" pin. It will not wobble as much and make a cleaner cut)
3- Sand off bilge undercoat (to insure good bond to bedding agent)
4- Fabricate spacer, Hull thickness 3/16 the thru hull runs out of threads (I made mine out of 1/4" aluminum plate)
5- Cut off excess threads off thru hull
6- Fabricate tool or purchase one to tighten thru hull
7- Check fit dry
8- Prime any bare metal with suitable primer
9- Coat hull, spacer both sides, thru hull and sea cock with sealer 3M 5200 or similar.
10- Tighten to specs
11- Let dry for 3M 5200 7 days

If anyone want to use my tool, You can use it just pay for the shipping. I made a tool for 1 1/2" and 3/4" thu hulls.

RiverRatt attached the following image(s):
RiverRatt attached the following image(s): hole_1.JPG
RiverRatt attached the following image(s): seacock_1.JPG
RiverRatt attached the following image(s): tool_1.JPG
RiverRatt attached the following image(s): finished_1.JPG
RiverRatt attached the following image(s): outside_1.JPG
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fastjeff
#2 Posted : Tuesday, April 21, 2009 9:11:07 AM(UTC)
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Docsnow
#3 Posted : Tuesday, April 21, 2009 11:25:33 AM(UTC)
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Robert,

I second that motion Applause

Norm,
BigBigMs Live On Applause
http://www.picturetrail.com/gid23690601 Try it now there's music to listen to while U view the Big M's

http://www.PictureTrail..../index.php?clubID=20726 this one for the Pix club


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NightMoves
#4 Posted : Tuesday, April 21, 2009 10:55:48 PM(UTC)
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Nice job but I would install a skoop like the engine input and a strainer. I am on the Ohio and pick a lot of little twigs and other debree that cloged the line.

Mike
DiverDennis
#5 Posted : Thursday, April 23, 2009 11:05:28 AM(UTC)
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Very nice job Robert Applause
Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single M360
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Brandy
#6 Posted : Monday, May 11, 2009 10:41:05 AM(UTC)
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My boat has a tee in the engine cooling pickup hose with a brass ball valve installed. Its the pickup for the saltwater washdown. Would probably work for other applications. Nice job on the install.
Spearo
dougrose
#7 Posted : Tuesday, May 12, 2009 12:00:21 AM(UTC)
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My boat already has three water pickups -- one for each engine and one for the head. Just wondering, is there a reason not to use an existing pickup? I am thinking about air conditioning (a$ $oon a$ I $olve a few problem$) and I was going to tee off of an existing pickup (after the ball valve), probably the head, in place of making a new hole in the hull.

The a/c has a saltwater circulating pump, and I can see that it might not want to compete with an engine for water, but I would think that the head would be fine. Anyone have experience with this?


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
Barkleydave
#9 Posted : Tuesday, May 12, 2009 12:21:31 AM(UTC)
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Comming off a head raw water thru- hull with a Tee should would be fine. I would suggest a check valve to prevent sucking air through the head.

I would not recommend tapping into engine intakes. Check valves could be installed but both should not be in use at the same time.

dave
None
Jazman
#10 Posted : Tuesday, May 12, 2009 1:00:52 AM(UTC)
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When I had my Trojan F36 I did this. Tee'd off the head through hull for the A/C feed. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS Had an issue with it. Everytime you would flush the head the A/C pump would loose its prime and shut down. I think the through hull fitting was too small to feed BOTH at the same time. I eventually added another through hull when the boat was pulled.
Bill

1975 37' FB Sedan
Sleepless Knights
Bohemia River
Chesapeake City, MD
pfhlaw
#11 Posted : Tuesday, May 12, 2009 2:41:49 AM(UTC)
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Doug:
When I installed AC I teed off the head intake and it works fine. I have never had a problem. My AC intake pump is located beneath the galley floor so it never looses head and when it's running the head flushes fine. The intake is a 3/4" clamshell. The AC pump intake hose and the head intake hose are 3/4" but the output hose to the compressor is 5/8". The head intake already had a check valve installed.
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
RiverRatt
#8 Posted : Tuesday, May 12, 2009 2:38:38 PM(UTC)
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dougrose wrote:
My boat already has three water pickups -- one for each engine and one for the head. Just wondering, is there a reason not to use an existing pickup? I am thinking about air conditioning (a$ $oon a$ I $olve a few problem$) and I was going to tee off of an existing pickup (after the ball valve), probably the head, in place of making a new hole in the hull.

The a/c has a saltwater circulating pump, and I can see that it might not want to compete with an engine for water, but I would think that the head would be fine. Anyone have experience with this?


Per A/C mfg and Raritan, sharing a water pickup is fine. I did not have a thru hull for the head or an A/C why I added one for the new A/C and head.


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dougrose
#12 Posted : Wednesday, May 13, 2009 5:53:26 AM(UTC)
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Thanks for the input, guys. It didn't occur to me to put a check valve in the line to the head, but it would probably be a good idea to put check valves in both. I have the original bronze thruhull and ball valve for the head, so I can add a bronze or stainless manifold to feed hvac and head both. I will be sure to mount the circulating pump down low so it can be self-priming.

A friend here points out that tapping into the water supply to the engine introduces an additional failure mode to the cooling system. I think I want to avoid that.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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