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interior teak panel cleaning
boatinfree
#1 Posted : Monday, December 31, 2007 10:56:58 AM(UTC)
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does any one know what product is the best to use to clean interior teak paneling and trim
i have a 39 foot aft cabin marinette
joseph
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Roger2
#2 Posted : Monday, December 31, 2007 11:06:52 AM(UTC)
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There is a regular teak oil, can't remember the name, will look next time go to boat. West Marine, or your local marina should have something. Where are you in IL? I'm in Petersburg, boat in Peoria.

Roger
Sea Jay
1983 37 double cabin, twin 230hp Volvo diesels, twin disk 1.5-1 20X 23 4 blade props
yooper
#4 Posted : Monday, December 31, 2007 12:55:22 PM(UTC)
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I got a receipe for discolored teak, bug crap, mold and mildew. It's about 6 - 8 oz of dawn detergent. about 2 oz of clorox and a dash of TSP. Put it in one 32 oz spray bottle. Top off with water, shake and pour half into another 32 oz spray bottle and top both off making 64 oz of cleaner. Use a scotch pads on the tough spots. It will clean the wood and just about anything else. My project 32' sat out for years. The interior cleaning took a long time. Once I finished it looked so good I didn't go any further. I prefer "patina" to more work. However, a test proved that a light sanding followed by teak oil (Watco) gives a beautiful factory fresh result.

There are some Marinette fanatics who have completely disassembled the entire cabin and sanded and varnished all the wood. THAT IS NOT FOR ME. Once an owner starts splashing varnish around it is a whole new ball game. My project 28' was varnished all over. I had to melt down the chipped and cracked finish with Park's funiture refinisher. Then I sanded where I had to and applied teak oil. Inside the bathroom area I did apply marine varnish (Minwax). I also had to pull out all the rotten delaminated 1/4 paneling from the salon and cut replacements. I couldn't find teak paneling so I stained and varnished luan. Matching the teak color was a pain. My luan was cheap and I had to paint and seal the back and edges. If I had to do this again I would track down better paneling that I could oil.

marinettejoe
#5 Posted : Monday, December 31, 2007 3:35:54 PM(UTC)
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I moved the post to cabin and Interior.
Unzinced ships sink at slips. yep
fastjeff
#6 Posted : Monday, December 31, 2007 10:29:26 PM(UTC)
fastjeff

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We cleaned the surface with lacquer thinner, green pad sanded a few spots, then restained with Min-Wax. Looks great after 4 plus years, and is easy to touch up as necessary.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

boatinfree
#3 Posted : Sunday, January 06, 2008 3:34:23 PM(UTC)
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Roger2 wrote:
There is a regular teak oil, can't remember the name, will look next time go to boat. West Marine, or your local marina should have something. Where are you in IL? I'm in Petersburg, boat in Peoria.


Roger


I am in southern IL and i boat on the kentucky lake
Joseph
fastjeff
#7 Posted : Sunday, January 06, 2008 8:32:37 PM(UTC)
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Hey! I used to live in Paducah! Great place to boat.

JEff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

SORRYDOG2
#8 Posted : Sunday, January 13, 2008 7:52:26 AM(UTC)
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on the outside look in to www.plasteak.com I installed 500 ft of it on my 70 ft. as hand rail 1x3x12 a buck a foot!! Great stuff see mine at sorrydog.com click boats for sale, shes's on my site just for show. This stuff looks like the real thing!! I saw it on another boat swim platform looked like day one and was 9 years old in the forida sun!!!!!
dougrose
#9 Posted : Monday, January 14, 2008 7:10:54 AM(UTC)
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I guess I'm a nut case. I pulled all the wood out of the boat, stripped it with Stripease, sanded and bleached it, and put on three coats of Epiphane Bootlak, a pretty good natural varnish.

The photo shows some of it on its way to the boat, via '94 Mustang Cobra Convertible:



This shows some of it after installation. The zebra pattern in the wood is particularly nice (Thanks Marinette):



I made a new dash panel out of mohog, the old one was really dinged up. It is hard to find wood as good as the stuff that came in the boat. Also took off the wheel and polished it:




1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
fastjeff
#10 Posted : Tuesday, January 15, 2008 12:25:53 AM(UTC)
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Love that new dash!

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

boatmonkey
#11 Posted : Thursday, January 31, 2008 10:07:56 AM(UTC)
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My wife has continued the routine of our 1989 32 flybridge's original owner. She washed the interior once in the Spring and once in the Fall with Murphy's Oil Soap and hot water. Then she applies a thick coat of a beeswax product called something like Wood Kabin Kare (although I can't find that name on the net - I will have to ask the boss). Then the next day she buffs off the beeswax and the finish looks great.
It's a great life if you don't weaken!
John Anderson
#13 Posted : Monday, May 19, 2008 7:41:33 AM(UTC)
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Great interior wood cleaner.. cheap too. I'v done a lot of antiques and have a 32' with the teak which I have treated very successfully. Mix as follows: 1/3 white vinegar + 1/3 turpentine + 1/3 linseed oil. I use a mason jar to mix and a clean cloth to apply. shake well immediately before use. It has a slight yellow tint, but it goes on colorless. Additionally, if you have a few scratches or dings add about an ounce of mahogany minnwax stain to your mixture. It gives it a little color but not severe, if it doesn't cover well enough, add a bit more stain. If you use the stain, it's a little messy, wear gloves.
Goldpoint
#14 Posted : Saturday, May 31, 2008 8:19:03 PM(UTC)
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John A.,

I mixed up a little of that concoction of yours and tried it on some flybridge teak. While it may go on colorless, the odor from the vinegar and turpentine sure does linger quite a while. Don't think I'm going to try it inside.

John B.
1979 28' Sedan Bridge
Single 360
Chattanooga, TN
fastjeff
#15 Posted : Saturday, May 31, 2008 11:30:49 PM(UTC)
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Doug:

To compliment that gorgeous dash, I suggest redoing the throttle/ shifter handles. I sanded mine to remove the corrosion, then primed and painted them black with appliance enemal (available in spray cans. Hard to find, but great stuff.)

One caution: If you're going to do this, be sure MARK all four (or more) cables before you remove them! Getting back in the wrong spot can be a nightmare to correct.

Jeff

PS: On second thought, anyone who got all those electrical connections behind the dash back in the right place won't have a problem with the cables!
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dougrose
#16 Posted : Sunday, June 01, 2008 6:39:05 AM(UTC)
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Jeff,

Thanks for the advice - I hope to get around to the shifters but there are other more pressing needs....

While on that subject, it has been driving me nuts trying to get both engines and all four throttles to work together. When the gas engines were swapped for the much slower diesels, the props simply would not use enough power. So, the installers "fixed" it by adjusting the throttles so that the engines never went to full fuel, and thus wouldn't go to the rev limit. I have re-pitched the props and readjusted the throttles, as well as lubricating them. Now the engines can spin the props better, but they don't track when the throttles are held together, and don't work the same on both sets of controls. I run around and readjust here and there, but I don't seem to be improving things much.

Do you have a (finite) procedure that will get the throttles adjusted? I know I should be able to figure this all out for myself, but damn it's mechanical (!) never my strong point.

Doug


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
fastjeff
#17 Posted : Tuesday, June 03, 2008 8:44:14 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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Doug:

Adjusting those throttle so the handles are together is a PAIN IN THE ASS! All I can recommend is this: Measure the difference between the handles at your favorite cruising speed (say, 3/4 of an inch). Engines off, put the handles in that relative position and measure (in the bilge) the length the cables is sticking out. Record that dimension. Next, remove the plates below the throttle handles. (You probably already know this.) You'll see the ends of the cables sticking up with a screwdriver slotted nut on the end of each. Make damn sure you have the right cable (not one going to the FB from the lower helm, or etc.) and adjust that nut until the handles are together. Recheck your bilge measurements to be sure they are where they are supposed to be.


Good luck!

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

dougrose
#18 Posted : Wednesday, June 04, 2008 1:37:15 AM(UTC)
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Jeff,

I was afraid you were going to say something like that -- it's sort of what I have been doing only more organized. I have just been making small adjustments that I know are in the right direction... but all that climbing up and down is exhausting, and once you are at anchor the throttles are fine.

Still in DC, will have a go on throttles a little later in the summer...

D


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
fastjeff
#19 Posted : Wednesday, June 04, 2008 3:06:19 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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..."once you are at anchor the throttles are fine."

That's you problem! Mine are way off at idle, but close together at cruising speed. You can't have both, apparently, with those crummy Morse controls.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

Goldpoint
#20 Posted : Wednesday, June 04, 2008 10:45:17 AM(UTC)
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I am still trying to comprehend all of this. Poor me has only one engine to worry about. Maybe I should count my blessings instead of getting a bit pi$$ed when I have to put her back into the slip.

Johnny B.
1979 28' Sedan Bridge
Single 360
Chattanooga, TN
fastjeff
#21 Posted : Wednesday, June 04, 2008 10:56:31 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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There are advantages to having one engine--except in docking and if it breaks down. Two is kinda nice then.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

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